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Exterior door glue up question

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Forum topic by rockusaf posted 04-18-2020 12:25 AM 317 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rockusaf

181 posts in 951 days


04-18-2020 12:25 AM

The doors to my workshop now have a metal frame and are plastic honeycomb panels, the building was there when we bought the place, it was a kit or pre-fab and since I’ve been adding tools I’d like to be able to secure the workshop and don’t think plastic fits that bill. So I’m looking to replace them and have a question about the glueup.

Attached is my design, pretty simple 2”x4” frame and 1”x5” v-groove pine tongue and groove cut on a 45. The opening is right at 6’ so it’s 2 doors at ~36”x75” and will fit into the metal frame that is there. The v-groove 1x’s will fit into dados in the edge of the 2x rails and stiles and I plan to machine a dado on the end of the v-groove pieces where they meet in the middle and put a spline along the height of the door to support the center of each door (the red lines in the image)

. My question is if I should glue the end grain of the v-groove pieces, glue the spline, both or neither.

Thoughts? What am I missing?

Rock

-- Measure Once Cuss Twice


8 replies so far

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3333 posts in 2647 days


#1 posted 04-18-2020 02:49 AM

It’s a interesting design I really have no idea what the answer is. I think your post reads that your making two of them why not try one with glue and one without. I’m trying to imagine what the glue will do add strength that’s needed or prevent seasonal expansion and contraction. I don’t know since it’s a non typical construction
My best guess no glue and cut your jointery tight.
Good Luck

-- Aj

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Lazyman

5797 posts in 2236 days


#2 posted 04-18-2020 03:27 AM

I don’t know either but that won’t stop me from brainstorming and speculating…

Its sort of like a vertical shiplap back on a cabinet with is usually not glued to allow it to move with moisture changes. The normal way to secure shiplap is to put 1 or 2 screws, nails or dowels to lock it in place but with enough spacing (maybe 1/16 +/- at each T&G) so that they can expand and contract in place, without shifting the board on either side. I think that you would need to pin them on the outside ends as well to keep the spacing. If you don’t lock each board in place somehow and it contracts during a dry spell, you may see a gap at the top as everything shrinks. In this case a couple of brads or a staple might work from the back to pin it to the spline?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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rockusaf

181 posts in 951 days


#3 posted 04-18-2020 02:08 PM

Thanks for the replies, glad I’m not the only one stumped by my out of the box idea. Yes Nathan pretty much shiplap just cut at 45 and the expansion/contraction is what I’m concerned about. I’m worried that when it contracts I’ll have a gap down the middle which is why I was considering gluing that edge but don’t want it to crack if it’s glued solid. I think the pin from the back into the spline may be the way to go.

Aj, it is 2 doors, basically like patio doors hinged on either side so it opens to a 6’ opening, you can see the doors to the shop open in this pic I posted of the Adirondack chairs I made. You can also see the metal frame running around the edge of the doors with the hinges mounted to it.

Rock

-- Measure Once Cuss Twice

View jdh122's profile

jdh122

1173 posts in 3666 days


#4 posted 04-18-2020 03:54 PM

I’d probably glue all of the boards on both ends, so in the rails and the spline. But I would make sure that none of the boards were glued to each other, by leaving an inch or so on both sides of the joint that are not glued (I’d probably put a bit of wax where I didn’t want the glue). Then the wood could move a little seasonally, and the expansion would only be over each individual board rather than over the whole piece.

-- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests

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rockusaf

181 posts in 951 days


#5 posted 04-19-2020 12:12 AM

Well I got one cut and mocked up minus the spline in the center but I ran out of steam, not ready for the 90+% humidity yet. It took a bit to get the joints to line up in the center but I’m digging it so far. I’ll get the spline cut in tomorrow and see how stable it is and make a decision on glue up from there.

Rock

-- Measure Once Cuss Twice

View Foghorn's profile

Foghorn

555 posts in 235 days


#6 posted 04-19-2020 12:46 AM

Looks pretty darn cool though!

-- Darrel

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

5797 posts in 2236 days


#7 posted 04-19-2020 04:30 PM

As long as you leave enough room between each board for expansion, you can apply some glue. Personally, I think that I would put some brads in from the back instead of or in addition to the glue. It is going to look really nice.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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rockusaf

181 posts in 951 days


#8 posted 04-27-2020 05:49 AM

Well after mockup it was not nearly as stable as I’d hoped so I milled up a rail in the middle. Now I have to cut down the T&G pine to fit but it feels a whole lot more sturdy with the 2 extra tenons holding it together.

Rock

-- Measure Once Cuss Twice

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