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Need advice on cutting deep notches

1K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  Bauhaus80 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
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I'm starting a Frank Lloyd Wright style tree lamp and wanted to see if I could get some advice on cutting ~2" deep notches. I'm relatively new to woodworking(and new to the forum) so there's a good chance I'm overlooking a good approach or over complicating this.

Because the shade is friction fitted to the post and meant to slide in and out, I'm trying to figure out a precise and repeatable process to cut this notch.

So far I made one shade by making about 10-12 kerf cuts on my table saw. This worked okay but was pretty time consuming, and considering I have to make 25 of these notches per lamp(I plan on making a few) I wanted to see if anyone had a better idea.

edit: I do have access to an 8" dado set which theoretically could cut about 2" deep, granted that's a whole lot of dado blade. Could this be done safely?

Thanks
Will
 

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#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
The one alternative is to use 3 pieces of wood and edge glue them together to form the cut out. If the wood you are using has very little grain pattern to it (as pictured) the glue joints should be almost invisible.
You could make two at once with the slot on each end and cut in half to save glue up processes.

Otherwise I would make the two vertical cuts on the table saw as you have been to get nice clean cuts and the end cut with a bandsaw, scroll saw, or saber saw. That leaves only one area to sand out the saw marks.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Rough cut inside the lines however you are comfortable doing it. (Bandsaw is what I would use.)
Then I would clean up the cut with a router, using a template.
This would still give you rounded corners that you would have to figure how to square. Or leave round, use a small bit for a small radius corner. Make sure you don t bandsaw to far into the corner if leaving it rounded.

Or use a 3/8 dado blade and make your side cuts, full height, then rough cut the top (bandsaw),
then clean up the top with the router and template. This will give you your square corner. But a little harder to keep the top edge in line with the 2 cuts, Just need a solid template.

Or just gang them all together, and make 4 passes with the 3/8" dado and see if that leaves the top edge good enough. Use a custom sanding block, (made to fit the 1 1/4") to clean up the top edge while they are all still clamped together.

Personally, if I were doing it, I would do it the last method.

- LeeRoyMan
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
I saw something about a shop doing special work for FLW once, and they were using some large industrial equipment. I've never used one, but a 12" Dado would get it done. Likely they used a RAS with a large Dado. Lot of them back when, less so now.

Without that, as LeeRoy said a router bit, and follow the corners with a chisel, or a bandsaw would make 2" deep gullets. The Dado would just have a better chance of making them clean. A lot easier to set up as well.
 
#12 ·
Or just gang them all together, and make 4 passes with the 3/8" dado and see if that leaves the top edge good enough. Use a custom sanding block, (made to fit the 1 1/4") to clean up the top edge while they are all still clamped together.

Personally, if I were doing it, I would do it the last method.

- LeeRoyMan
I'm going to try this, thanks!
 
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