Planer research

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Forum topic by tvrgeek posted 03-31-2020 05:49 PM 393 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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950 posts in 2389 days

03-31-2020 05:49 PM

Topic tags/keywords: planer

So, short of big stationary planers, does it come to the DeWalt DW 375, or the DW375?
Possibly will buy a carbide head for whatever I buy. Or is something like a Grizzly G0815 worth double the price. Do we get really better cuts with the bigger machine? The additional width is not a factor for me.

Accuracy is one issue. How long it takes to get the knives set up, if snipe is within sanding range etc.

Currently have a modified Delta. Finally running out of patience with it. I eventually want an accurate thickness DRO. A fixed table makes a lot more sense than fixed overhead cutter.

6 replies so far

View bilyo's profile


1087 posts in 1842 days

#1 posted 03-31-2020 10:54 PM

There have been several discussions here about planers and the consensus appears to be in favor of the DW 375. For comparison, I have had the DW 733 for quite a while. It is an earlier version of the 734 and has two blades rather than 3. And, of course, it has only one speed rather than two speeds like the 735. I have been and continue to be very pleased with it. It planes so smoothly that only minimal sanding is required. Short boards of 2-3 ft usually don’t experience any snipe. Long boards may but, it is controllable and can be avoided with simple techniques. The blades are easy to remove and replace. I am still using the original blades (I question the need for carbide). I take them out and clean and hand hone them once and a while. I have run miles of cherry and oak. Having said all that, I can only add that if one more blade and one more speed adds something to how well the 734 and 735 work, I say wow! You can’t go wrong with either one. As far as accuracy is concerned, the scale on the side appears to be close but, I don’t depend on it anyway. I always check thickness with calipers as I go. Based on that, I would say that each turn of the crank is a pretty accurate 1/16”. I usually only go 1/2 turn per pass and 1/4 turn when getting close to finish thickness.

View Madmark2's profile


1281 posts in 1328 days

#2 posted 03-31-2020 11:26 PM

I have the Grizzly G0889 and am quite happy with it. It has:

  • Head lock for reduced snipe
  • Catch bag (no vac needed)
  • Clear exhaust duct
  • Actual cut depth indicator
  • Preset thickness stop knob
  • 1/8” minimum thickness
  • Wider than the Grizzly G0505
  • Available in spiral cutterhead (G0889Z)

Grizzly G0889 with Wixey WR510 DRO

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View CaptainKlutz's profile


3041 posts in 2234 days

#3 posted 04-01-2020 01:12 AM

Have owned many different planers. They all serve the same bloody purpose, with same types of issues; with each using a slightly different way of annoying the user.
All of the issues have been well documented in existing threads!

- Accuracy is fools errand when the machine uses a tape measure with accuracy or +/- 1/16” for setting thickness. If you want better, have to add a Wixey or other DRO. Doesn’t matter which machine you pick.

- As long as knives are set properly, and machine is set properly; the side to side accuracy is +/- 0.001”, and snipe is non-existent to less than 0.001”. Doesn’t matter which machine you pick.

- Blade changes are PIA. But after you have done it 3-4 times, it takes longer to remove the covers to reach blades, then it does to actually change them. The Dewalt knives are similar to Delta 22-580 I owned, as they used reference pins to align the blades. This make changes easy, but meant you needed new blades every time. Not sure which is more annoying? Again, doesn’t matter which machine you pick.

- Snipe is function of how well the tool holds the board during planing. Small machines, or big machines with small tables; generate snip on long heavy boards that are not 100% supported. If you want to eliminate snip, build a planning station with in/out feed tables that support the board 100% over the entire length. And, YES, solution is easier said than done; as not many can build two perfectly flat 12ft long in and out feed tables in a small shop.
Although if you buy a machine that doesn’t have head lock to prevent movement of height adjustment, snipe can be impossible to remove.

BTW – What is a DW375? Do you mean DW735 planer?

Number ONE beef I had with DW735 was blade life. The factory blades wear out faster than 1 ply toilet paper. Even on clean rough cut lumber, new blades had a nick in less than 4-5 boards. My Delta 22-580 blades would last 10x longer. The Dewalt OEM blades are better than generic blades I tested, which makes blade cost very high too. This blade weakness is why you so many threads suggesting use of Shellix head. If blades lasted longer, you would see a lot less.

I rank the DW735 as worst planer I have owned. Dumped my DW735 after only a few months, when I finally found a used 15” DC-380 for same price. Have since upgraded to a 20” for same money.


PS – Sure hope this thread is not another ‘research’ thread to help the OP decide what machine to buy, when he has already made up his mind? c’est la vie.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View tvrgeek's profile


950 posts in 2389 days

#4 posted 04-01-2020 11:17 AM

No, Klutz, I have not made up my mind other than I am sick of the one I have. It is the only one I have ever used, so I have no experience otherwise. I see the DW as so common and little push for others unless going big as you have.

Blades getting nicked from the tiniest of knots is one of my gripes. The last set probably lasted 50 feet before a nick too deep to reuse. They are generic replacements. As we are planing wood, and wood does have knots, not being able to handle it is an unsuitable-for-use factor in my book.

Adjustment in no 5 minute job on mine. That is not the problem, results are. I use a set of the little magnetic horseshoes. I had to add a layer of tape to the magnets to lower the knifes so the rollers would grab on a 1/2 turn crank.

I have not seen any used ones recently. I’ll keep watching while we are all locked up. Something like the DC-380 is what I had in mind, but as I mentioned, I see the DW735 everywhere. The Delta has a fixed table which makes sense as you can make extended in and out feed tables. I do not understand the ones where the table moves. You say you did not like the DeWalt. Why? A carbide head is under $400. That looks like a reasonable combination. A Grizzly is about twice the price and not sure it does much more unless there are issues I do not know about, which is why I am asking! I have no need for a 20 inch, let alone the space or budget.

FWIW, my research on band saws changed my mind totally. Instead of the $1200 Rikon, I now am looking at the two heavier Lagunas. Tiny details matter. My research into table saws found what is a critical shortcoming in the Laguna F3 which I was leaning to. Now I am delaying to save enough for a Powermatic. Maybe you have access to new tools so you can make easier comparisons. I can only afford to buy one more set of tools. I have to get the details right.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6191 posts in 3233 days

#5 posted 04-01-2020 11:28 AM

In past discussions, the overwhelming favorite among a huge number of users has been the 735 in the benchtop format. Most of them seem to recommend adding the Byrd (or equivalent) head. I think if you move to the stationary there’s less consensus on the “best”; maybe because they are so similar. In the stationary planers the biggest difference in styles is whether the motor is on top or in the stand. I chose the Delta with the motor on top because, I reasoned, I wouldn’t have to change the height of my infeed/outfeed stands every time I adjusted the depth of cut. I’ve had this planer 17 years, and in that time I think I’ve used stands maybe 6-8 times….making it no big deal. So much for my reasoning. One point about the spiral heads; the discussion about whether you should get on goes on forever, mostly based on cut quality and blade life. But the one reason you want one (IMHO) is noise reduction. With a big DC, my planer was the only tool I used (with knives) where I needed to wear my shooting ear muffs. With the spiral head, I can use ear plugs like I do for every other tool in the shop.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View tvrgeek's profile


950 posts in 2389 days

#6 posted 04-01-2020 12:09 PM

Fred, Exactly the feedback I was looking for.
I keep my muffs handy. Jointer, router, and the worst of all, angle grinder.

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