Jessem Clear-Cut Stock Guides for Table Saw

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Forum topic by DWill1953 posted 03-30-2020 11:12 PM 418 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View DWill1953's profile


4 posts in 97 days

03-30-2020 11:12 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw stock guide jessem question

New to the forum. I’m thinking seriously of buying Jessem Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides for my Sawstop table saw (T-Glide fence) but I have two concerns:

1. I’m trying to determine the height of just the Jessem mounting track. I’m concerned that, even with the guide assemblies removed, the track could extend above the tops of the face plates on my fence to the point that it would interfere with jigs that straddle the fence. My tenon jig, for example, clears the tops of the face plates by 3/16” so I have 7/8” total clearance from the top surface of the fence (on which the Jessem track will be mounted) to the bottom of the jig. If the height of the Jessem mounting plate is less than that, I have no problem. However, I can’t find that dimension (height of the mounting track) on the Jessem site. I’m hoping someone who has the table saw guides can give me that measurement. (I realize that some people use magswitches to mount a removable, plywood sub-plate on the fence top and then mount the track onto that but I’m not really interested in doing that.)

2. I came across a video on YouTube in which a guy showed how the polyurethane o-rings that serve as “tires” on the “wheels” of his Jessem guide (both on his router table and on his table saw) mysteriously turned to a gooey, useless mess for no apparent reason. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Also, I notice that Jessem sells replacement o-rings for the guides; if you’ve had either the table saw or router guides for a while, how long till you had to replace the o-rings?


9 replies so far

View Dustjunkie's profile


39 posts in 145 days

#1 posted 03-31-2020 01:34 AM

I just measured the track height, it is 16.4mmfrom bottom to the top of the track.

View mtnwalton's profile


77 posts in 1797 days

#2 posted 03-31-2020 03:22 AM

I’ve had both the JessEm guides for the table saw and router table for about two years. I use the table saw guides less than half the time and have only used the router guides a couple times. I’m very satisfied with the job they do and have noticed no deterioration in either.

View BurlyBob's profile


7594 posts in 3036 days

#3 posted 03-31-2020 03:59 AM

I’d suggest you watch David Stanton’s YouTube video. I adapted it to my Beismeyer fence and it’s been an awesome addition to my arsenal. The only change I might suggest is that you use 150 lbs mag switches. The 50 lbs I have do the job nicely but I’m thinking I might change them out for the 150’s.

Stanton’s idea of using them with a piece of material; plywood or melamine and mag switches gives a versitility to the stock guides that is truly amazing. I have several jigs I use on the fence. Being able to remove the stock guides moved off the fence so I can use my jigs is fantastic. I love the versatility of Stanton’s idea.

View DWill1953's profile


4 posts in 97 days

#4 posted 03-31-2020 01:15 PM

Thanks Dustjunkie that’s what I needed. The track will not interfere with jigs.
Thanks Mtnwalton. Good to hear you haven’t had problems with the o-rings.
Thanks BurlyBob. Yeah. I can see the advantage of mounting the track on a removable base but, with prices and taxes here in Canada, 2 larger magswitches will cost me over $100 which together with the $345 for the guides means over $400 all together. Plus the bigger magswitches are out of stock at Lee Valley which is about the only reliable source where I am. Now that I know the track on its own will be almost flush with the tops of my fence face plates, I don’t see it being a problem. It appears that the guide assemblies will slide off the track easily when I don’t want them perched on the fence top and the track alone should be no problem. Maybe, at some point I’ll even be able to use that t-track on the top of the fence to secure some different jig.
I’m going to order the stock guides. Thanks again to all of you for the guidance.

View tvrgeek's profile


988 posts in 2420 days

#5 posted 03-31-2020 02:27 PM

Wow, they sure have updated the design. Amazon lists then for $250. Seems a lot for a fancy featherboard that sticks out a bit.

Found the video. He sure has a lot. Using the switched to hold a fence to a steel fence. ( mine is aluminum)

View DWill1953's profile


4 posts in 97 days

#6 posted 03-31-2020 03:43 PM

$327 plus 15% tax on Amazon Canada. Lee Valley’s price here is $299. It’s a lot but the quality of the product is excellent (I have a Jessem router lift and it’s excellent quality). Yeah, a feather-board will do the same thing the front guide assembly does, except that with the stock guides the initial setup is a bit easier and faster and for repeat cuts on boards of different widths but with the same thickness there’s no need to change the setup as you would have to do with a feather-board. However, it’s the back guide assembly beyond the blade that is where these guides really shine. That back guide holds the board snug to the fence beyond the blade which not only results in a more parallel cut but greatly reduces the chance of kickback. I hate to admit it but in an effort to get an accurate rip cut, I often find myself leaning over and using my left hand (with or without a push-stick) to hold the board against the fence beyond the blade while pushing the stock through with my right hand. That’s an accident waiting to happen. I feel that not having to do those gymnastics anymore will be worth the money. Stock guides are ordered.

View tvrgeek's profile


988 posts in 2420 days

#7 posted 03-31-2020 04:46 PM

Gad, what a premium you are being asked to pay.

I do hear you about keeping your fingers away from the blade. Gymnastics are a hurt in disguise.
If you have an old saw as I do and no riving knife, I can see the advantage. I have a shelf full of push blocks with grit bottoms so I can guide past keeping the force down and over. I have thought about building side guards to make them even safer.

View DrTebi's profile


374 posts in 4038 days

#8 posted 03-31-2020 07:40 PM

Congratulations on your purchase. The Jessem guides are a unique product, and although not cheap, you will get a really well made product and your safety and quality of cuts will improve.

I bought the guides a few month ago, and posted about some small issues that bothered me about them, you may want to read that post here on lumberjocks:

The bottom line for me is, that you should not assume that they replace the function of a featherboard. To me, watching the videos, it seemed a bit that they do, but if you do cut long boards, you may still want to use a featherboard. I find that, if you are not guiding the board into the cut perfectly straight, especially when beginning the cut, there is a great chance that you accidentally shift the board a bit to the side. The rollers are not strong enough to prevent that, there is too much leverage. In my opinion, you should either be very careful when starting the cut, or use a featherboard.

But I am not saying that these guides are not worth it, on the contrary. I find that I now work more efficiently, and have no more worries about kick-back. It is also very helpful that you can literally stop pushing your board and leave it sitting, without moving away, something I would never dare without the guides. This is especially useful when you are cutting sheet good, which is often tricky to handle, and has a tendency to flip up during a cut.

Some tips when using the guides:
- Have a cut-off ready of the same stock that you are cutting, and use it to set the guides height. I put the off-cut under the black part of the arm, push down, and lock. You want to lock it down really well, so there is no chance of the guide moving up.
- Have a thin push-stick ready to guide your board through the end of the cut. The guides do get a bit in the way when you are making e.g. a 3” cut. I often use a piece of plywood that is less wide and thick than what I cut, and guide it through at the end.

And, by the way, I too thought about making my own. But you will quickly find that it is quite difficult to accomplish. Just finding ball bearings that move into one direction only, mount these with wheels to a guide post… it’s not easily accomplished.

One last point: If you are after a perfect straight edge, a jointer or jointer plane is still your best friend. If the edge that I cut is to be exposed, as in a piece of trim, I still plane the edges with my jointer plane, to get rid of any saw marks.

View DWill1953's profile


4 posts in 97 days

#9 posted 03-31-2020 08:28 PM

DrTebi, thanks for sharing your experience with and thoughts about these guides – especially the importance of still being careful with the initial feeding of the stock. I’ll keep that and your other tips in mind when the guides arrive and I get them set up. Much appreciated.

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