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Sprayable black paint??

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Forum topic by scribble posted 03-28-2020 03:11 AM 591 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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scribble

222 posts in 2932 days


03-28-2020 03:11 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question finishing

I have a entertainment center that I would like to spray black with my earlex sprayer. The unit will have thrown on it constantly and kids will be all over it as well.

What would you recommend?

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”


24 replies so far

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CaptainKlutz

2993 posts in 2225 days


#1 posted 03-28-2020 09:25 AM

Never used black, only white pigmented wood working finishes.
But I know black is readily available? So many choices, hard to recommend any single product?

Can get black pigmented lacquer and conversion varnish from several different mfg (solvent based).
Standard list of characters: Sherwin Williams, ML Campbell. Chemcraft, PPG, etc.
Not everyone has every brand available locally, and solvent systems tend behave similar. So ask your favorite INDUSTRIAL FINISHING supplier what they recommend.
Sorry, this is not something you can get at BORG or even Woodcraft/Rockler.

If you want Water Base, GF has black Enduro WB poly; but am not a fan of stuff (too soft for table tops IMHO). Would suggest looking for WB from Gemini, Renner, or Target Coatings distributor in your area?

BTW – Have to be careful with total film build on some coatings (like: lacquer – cracking or WB poly – dry time), but if you want more scratch protection, and easier repair; can top coat with clear version of same type used for base coat. Also enables easier control of final sheen level without worry about color or need to hand buff/polish.

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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tvrgeek

941 posts in 2380 days


#2 posted 03-28-2020 10:09 AM

Are you talking about a black satin, still transparent? Or are you talking about paint?

I built a lot of loudspeakers. I used automotive paint. Usually Dupont centari.
Black is of course the absolute hardest as it shows every flaw. I have used plain old enamel on some.
Water based paints are just not as tough.

I have also use “espresso” stain. a couple regular coats, then dry brushing a semi dry coat. Add more stain to the poly layers and you can get a very dark, but still clearly wood and not painted.

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scribble

222 posts in 2932 days


#3 posted 03-28-2020 01:53 PM

I’d like it to be paint as the person doesn’t want the wood look. I think the auto paint may be a good choice with what I’m currently thinking.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

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LeeRoyMan

1053 posts in 458 days


#4 posted 03-28-2020 02:20 PM

I use mostly pre-cat. I will use black primmer then top coat it with clear.

-- I only know what I know, nothing less, nothing more -- That doesn't count what I used to know..

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JackDuren

1133 posts in 1691 days


#5 posted 03-28-2020 02:23 PM


I use mostly pre-cat. I will use black primmer then top coat it with clear.

- LeeRoyMan

You can tint pre-cat.. I’ve made black before at S&W….

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bilyo

1078 posts in 1834 days


#6 posted 03-28-2020 02:37 PM

No personal experience but, I understand that some use Rustoleum paint with a hardener in it. Maybe some one else can comment.

Also, I have had good results using automotive paint on small turnings. No reason why it wouldn’t do as well on larger projects.

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Heyoka

47 posts in 584 days


#7 posted 03-28-2020 02:50 PM

Plain old rustolium black enamel is what I would use. I have used it with success on several projects.

-- Heyoka

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tvrgeek

941 posts in 2380 days


#8 posted 03-28-2020 03:08 PM

Yes, there are additional hardeners for plain old enamel. They seem to work a little, especially on my lawn mower shell. I might be inclined to use high build epoxy primer, black. If scuffed with 3000 or so and waxed, a very nice finish.

Lots of choices. You just have to try them. My problem with enamel is how long it has to dry between coats. Youu can only make it child resistant. No such thing as child proof.

Then consider if you ever want to repair it. Plain old enamel might be a lot easier than automotive paint.

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Madmark2

1256 posts in 1319 days


#9 posted 03-28-2020 03:17 PM

Bedliner.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

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scribble

222 posts in 2932 days


#10 posted 04-03-2020 12:53 AM



Plain old rustolium black enamel is what I would use. I have used it with success on several projects.

- Heyoka

Any recommendations on using the Rust-Oleum and or spraying with it.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

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SMP

1999 posts in 637 days


#11 posted 04-03-2020 04:50 AM

I’ve had good luck with the Benjamin Moore Impervo oil based alkyd. But make sure whatever you get to buy it black. Don’t have it mixed.

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CaptainKlutz

2993 posts in 2225 days


#12 posted 04-03-2020 04:53 AM


Any recommendations on using the Rust-Oleum and or spraying with it.
- scribble

Yes. I HIGHLY recommend NOT using it!
If you going to spray your piece, pigmented pre-cat is much better option on wood! Wisconsin is home to Diamond Vogel Industrial Wood Coatings, and every major city has a Sherwin Williams Industrial Store? You have many better options available nearby.

Have a love/hate relationship with the enamel for restoration of old tools.
Rustoleum enamel is super slow to tack up, and dry. Can take 4-7 days to cure hard enough to even pick up a heavy object without leaving fingerprints. The only good thing about oil based enamels is the are cheap, at least until you add catalyst cost.

Rustoleum Tips:
- Needs strong atomization due heavy body, just like WB finish.
- Loves to create orange peel when temperatures are too high. Stay below 90°, preferably 80°
- Use light coats, let each one tack for an hour or two before re-coat.
- Thin with only acetone, per mfg recommendations. Anything else extends cure time.
- IMHO – Must use an enamel hardener/accelerator.
The hardener shortens tack time for many hours to one, and shortens cure time from a week to 24-48 hours. Pot life with catalyst is ~8 hours, so only mix want you need for day. Follow instructions for hardener use carefully, especially the part where it rests after mixing it in. Mix well second time before spraying. Majik Catalyst Harderner, Krylon Farm Implement Enamal Catalyst, Valspar Enamel Hardener, or Wet Look Enamel Hardener all perform about same. Most Farm and Fleet or Tractor Supply Stores carry some on shelf next the enamel paint for farm equipment.

I never use oil based enamel unless I’m painting metal, and is has to be done cheap.
You mentioned using Automotive paint. That is great option, but it is much more expensive. Even the cheapest single stage acrylic enamels are over $100 gallon. Pre-cat lacquer is usually half that cost.

YMMV
Best Luck!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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tvrgeek

941 posts in 2380 days


#13 posted 04-03-2020 01:11 PM

I have sprayed enamel many many times. I have done “piano black” finish on speaker cabinets with it and used paint thinner in it. Totally agree with YMMV on the accelerator/hardeners.

Only problem I had was trying to build too fast by respraying over a flash coat. You can get a wrinkle finish. Orange peel is not from the tempatre, but from incorrect thinning and technique. You change viscosity and pressure with temperature. Spray, wait for cure ( yes it can be days) sand, respray. Repeat ad-nauseum. Spraying over bare wood is asking for failure.

Always read the sheet for the paints in question. Not just the can, go to their WEBs and get the real info. Acetone may make a good thinner, but is horribly dangerous to inhale, Outside or with full suit respirator only!

If you can find lacquer auto primer, it is easy to build, easy to sand, and a great base for top coats. It depends on where you live. Some paints are not sold to the public in places like California.

Yes, to paint the equivalent of a gallon of 2K auto paint, by the time you add sealers, primers, cats, cleaners, thinners, filters, desiccants etc, you are talking serious money. About a grand. It depends on what results you want. Pay to play.

For black, another option might be appliance epoxy rattle can. Again, over good primer, you can buy a lot of cans cheaper than 2K. Heck, just plain old rattle can enamel can look like a factory job.

Do be aware, glue line soak can take a year to show up. For the MDF work I did, I resorted to applying several thinned coats of poly resin, sanding, then primer and 2K. Only that seemed to hold up a year later.

Spray painting is an art. Those who are good at it make it look so easy. I would starve if I had to make my living at it as I could never charge for all the hours of sanding and repainting I need.

SMP makes a good point. Black is not black. Buy it black. Mixed can look brown, purple, blue, or any other odd color in the light. Black is actually really hard. It also shows any tiniest of flaws even in satin.

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scribble

222 posts in 2932 days


#14 posted 04-03-2020 01:17 PM

Ok so sounds like my best bet at this stage since I did spray some Rust-Oleum on it already and it isn’t leveling out at all would be to sand all off and start over with a pre cat coating. I did use BM alkyd for a kitchen cabinet redo and it worked well other than the owner requesting no clear so they are showing there wear. I had also used target coatings on this same kitchen project as well and it sprayed nicely. I will see what I can get in town for pre cat hut wil most likely need to order from target coatings again

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

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John_

250 posts in 2437 days


#15 posted 04-03-2020 07:37 PM

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