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First real tip ( maybe as I never heard it)

1K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  Foghorn 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Cleaning up my "new" drill press, the chuck was a bit stiff. Think, think, think. AH-HA. Carb cleaner. Flooded it from the bottom. You would be amazed what came out time after time. It took almost a can to get it fully clean. ( spins with your finger now too) So I went to my old benchtop and cleaned it out. Gobs of junk. Had I been thinking and not excited to get it running, I would have done before and after runout tests. I bet it matters. I am going to add that to my annual maintenance plan.
 
#5 ·
Another related tip:

The chuck is mounted to a tapered shaft (morse taper typically), and use a drift key in the side slot of quill to knock it loose. Gain access to the slot when quill is extended, so many folks don't even know it's there.
The chuck assembly looks like this:


Most times a chuck is also friction fit via a Jacobs taper. Some are threaded attachement, but those are obvious.

Once the chuck is off the machine, it's much easier to clean out the chuck. If you remove the taper adapter shaft used on most drill chucks, can see through center of chuck. :)

My machinist mentor taught me to heat up 190W lube in coffee can to make it low viscosity, and soak the drill chuck in the hot lube. The warm chuck made it easier to assemble/press on to a room temp jacobs taper for tight fit. The heavy weight oil lasted longer than regular machine oil.

If you need picture guide, this How to Remove and Install a Drill Press Chuck

YMMV
 
#8 ·
Used T-9 to lube being dry, it won't hold dirt. Chain lube might be a good alternative. I like the idea of 190 weight. Don't know where to get ounces of it, not gallons. 0

Come to think of it, after using up what was in the can for carb cleaner, I think I did finish with brake cleaner.

I do need to get/make a wedge so I can pop out the chuck. Seems like an OK one ( Jacobs, but 20 years old) and I want to get a quality one. One of the issues I had with my Sears drill was the really crappy chuck that would not grip well. Spun many a bit even using all three holes to snug. The drill being a benchtop had integrated arbor. Not sure if I want a keyless or a keyed.

I might search/and or make a thread on advice on decent chucks. Decent, not $600 ultimate German production, just decent.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Used T-9 to lube being dry, it won t hold dirt. Chain lube might be a good alternative. I like the idea of 190 weight. Don t know where to get ounces of it, not gallons. 0

Come to think of it, after using up what was in the can for carb cleaner, I think I did finish with brake cleaner.

I do need to get/make a wedge so I can pop out the chuck. Seems like an OK one ( Jacobs, but 20 years old) and I want to get a quality one. One of the issues I had with my Sears drill was the really crappy chuck that would not grip well. Spun many a bit even using all three holes to snug. The drill being a benchtop had integrated arbor. Not sure if I want a keyless or a keyed.

I might search/and or make a thread on advice on decent chucks. Decent, not $600 ultimate German production, just decent.

- tvrgeek
Golden Goose chucks out of Taiwan are excellent in my experience and won't break the bank. Edit: There are Chinese fakes out there. Sounds like Taiwan stopped manufacturing them rather than explain the differences in quality. Still some new old stock out there on eBay etc. I bought my chucks in the 90's from a reputable vendor. The originals had a red and black box. The fakes, yellow and green.
 
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