LumberJocks

First real tip ( maybe as I never heard it)

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by tvrgeek posted 02-20-2020 05:24 PM 632 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View tvrgeek's profile (online now)

tvrgeek

548 posts in 2320 days


02-20-2020 05:24 PM

Topic tags/keywords: drill press tip

Cleaning up my “new” drill press, the chuck was a bit stiff. Think, think, think. AH-HA. Carb cleaner. Flooded it from the bottom. You would be amazed what came out time after time. It took almost a can to get it fully clean. ( spins with your finger now too) So I went to my old benchtop and cleaned it out. Gobs of junk. Had I been thinking and not excited to get it running, I would have done before and after runout tests. I bet it matters. I am going to add that to my annual maintenance plan.


9 replies so far

View pottz's profile

pottz

8276 posts in 1655 days


#1 posted 02-20-2020 11:41 PM

good tip thanks.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2782 posts in 3615 days


#2 posted 02-21-2020 07:15 AM

Thanks for the heads up.

View accord's profile

accord

40 posts in 195 days


#3 posted 02-21-2020 08:15 AM

would have never thought of carb cleaner…thanks

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

2622 posts in 2165 days


#4 posted 02-21-2020 08:16 AM

Another related tip:

The chuck is mounted to a tapered shaft (morse taper typically), and use a drift key in the side slot of quill to knock it loose. Gain access to the slot when quill is extended, so many folks don’t even know it’s there.
The chuck assembly looks like this:

Most times a chuck is also friction fit via a Jacobs taper. Some are threaded attachement, but those are obvious.

Once the chuck is off the machine, it’s much easier to clean out the chuck. If you remove the taper adapter shaft used on most drill chucks, can see through center of chuck. :-)

My machinist mentor taught me to heat up 190W lube in coffee can to make it low viscosity, and soak the drill chuck in the hot lube. The warm chuck made it easier to assemble/press on to a room temp jacobs taper for tight fit. The heavy weight oil lasted longer than regular machine oil.

If you need picture guide, this How to Remove and Install a Drill Press Chuck

YMMV

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View SMP's profile

SMP

1876 posts in 577 days


#5 posted 02-21-2020 12:30 PM

Yeah you probably want to do something like CaptainKlutz mentions now, since you removed all of the factory lube. You don’t want all that movement metal to metal.

View Brawler's profile

Brawler

132 posts in 502 days


#6 posted 02-21-2020 02:57 PM

Brake Klean also works and won’t leave the residue carb cleaner does.

-- Daniel, Pontiac, MI

View tvrgeek's profile (online now)

tvrgeek

548 posts in 2320 days


#7 posted 02-21-2020 04:19 PM

Used T-9 to lube being dry, it won’t hold dirt. Chain lube might be a good alternative. I like the idea of 190 weight. Don’t know where to get ounces of it, not gallons. 0

Come to think of it, after using up what was in the can for carb cleaner, I think I did finish with brake cleaner.

I do need to get/make a wedge so I can pop out the chuck. Seems like an OK one ( Jacobs, but 20 years old) and I want to get a quality one. One of the issues I had with my Sears drill was the really crappy chuck that would not grip well. Spun many a bit even using all three holes to snug. The drill being a benchtop had integrated arbor. Not sure if I want a keyless or a keyed.

I might search/and or make a thread on advice on decent chucks. Decent, not $600 ultimate German production, just decent.

View pottz's profile

pottz

8276 posts in 1655 days


#8 posted 02-22-2020 12:09 AM



Brake Klean also works and won t leave the residue carb cleaner does.

- Brawler


i use brake cleaner on my shotguns,works great and is dry in seconds.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Foghorn's profile

Foghorn

199 posts in 58 days


#9 posted 02-22-2020 04:01 AM


Used T-9 to lube being dry, it won t hold dirt. Chain lube might be a good alternative. I like the idea of 190 weight. Don t know where to get ounces of it, not gallons. 0

Come to think of it, after using up what was in the can for carb cleaner, I think I did finish with brake cleaner.

I do need to get/make a wedge so I can pop out the chuck. Seems like an OK one ( Jacobs, but 20 years old) and I want to get a quality one. One of the issues I had with my Sears drill was the really crappy chuck that would not grip well. Spun many a bit even using all three holes to snug. The drill being a benchtop had integrated arbor. Not sure if I want a keyless or a keyed.

I might search/and or make a thread on advice on decent chucks. Decent, not $600 ultimate German production, just decent.

- tvrgeek

Golden Goose chucks out of Taiwan are excellent in my experience and won’t break the bank. Edit: There are Chinese fakes out there. Sounds like Taiwan stopped manufacturing them rather than explain the differences in quality. Still some new old stock out there on eBay etc. I bought my chucks in the 90’s from a reputable vendor. The originals had a red and black box. The fakes, yellow and green.

-- Darrel

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com