Thin kerf bandsaw blades

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Forum topic by YankeeFan posted 02-20-2020 03:07 PM 297 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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12 posts in 51 days

02-20-2020 03:07 PM

Morning everyone, In the near future I intend to purchase a new bandsaw blade. I’ve been doing some reading on the above subject matter. Is anyone, past or present using one? Please give me your thoughts, tips, ideas, manufactures, pros and cons. I plan on using this blade for both hardwood and softwood. Thanks.

9 replies so far

View PBWilson1970's profile


63 posts in 69 days

#1 posted 02-20-2020 03:42 PM

I’ve used the Wood-Slicer from Highland in the past and yes, it makes a nice, smooth surface and if you’ve got your bandsaw set up nicely, it can save you wood, but I’m not so sure about the price (kinda high) and I didn’t get the best life out of them. I’ve got no scientific data, but they didn’t outlast some run-of-the-mill blades I’ve used (mostly Lennox if I recall). I cut a mix of American hardwoods mostly with a little bit of hard exotics.

If you’re resawing some expensive lumber for making your own shopsawn veneers or resawing wood for acoustic guitar backs and sides, I’d say go for it. Set up your machine the best you can, take your time with the cut, lubricate the blade and some nice bookmatches.

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning.

View moke's profile


1510 posts in 3452 days

#2 posted 02-20-2020 03:56 PM

To determine width, you need to consider what you are going to do with it. Tighter turns are narrow blades(1/8)....resaw is thick (1/2 to 3/4)...and inbetween is variations and combo blades. Highland Hardware, cuts and welds their own. They have some major sizes pre- done, but can make any size. Wood slicer blades are amazing. You will need to do some research for your specific situation. I have a 14” bandsaw and I like a 3/8 3 TPI….I hate changing blades and this is a good comprimise. I do a little resawing, cut some bowl blanks, and general things like pen blanks….it seems to work fine too. I have used Timber Wolf blades from Woodcraft….they worked well too, and they are cheaper than Highland.

-- Mike

View Planeman40's profile


1485 posts in 3437 days

#3 posted 02-20-2020 04:04 PM

You can make your own “thin kerf” bandsaw blades by dressing the blade sides with a sharpening stone to hone down the tooth offset of the blade while the saw is running. All bandsaws (and most handsaws) have each alternating tooth slightly bent to one side to widen the kerf to enable the blade to cut curves. Of course, if you do this, the altered blade will lose its ability to cut a tight curve. I have done this to one blade and keep it separate for use when needed.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View jdh122's profile


1130 posts in 3493 days

#4 posted 02-20-2020 04:32 PM

I occasionally use my BS on green wood, either because I found a cool piece of wood on the roadside or in the firewood pile and want to saw it into small boards, or because I want to prepare a rough turning blank for the springpole lathe. For green wood you need a blade with a good bit of set, so one that cuts a thicker kerf. If I was less lazy I’d switch blades, but that’s not gonna happen…

-- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests

View MrRon's profile


5854 posts in 3919 days

#5 posted 02-20-2020 11:07 PM

View Freedom's profile


3 posts in 66 days

#6 posted 02-21-2020 12:03 AM

I have basically the same question about kerf size. I am trying to make bandsaw boxes and am finding that the kerf leaves quite a gap. I am new to using the bandsaw in making things, used to a scrollsaw, but would like to make these boxes. I am using a 1/8” blade and the gap when I put the drawer in the box looks pretty bad to me. I saw the post about dressing the blades, but I also saw something online about using a bench vise to squeeze the teeth straight along the blade. I’m trying to figure out how to put up the photos of my first try boxes, but haven’t figured out how to do that yet. Any help is appreciated.

View tvrgeek's profile


593 posts in 2325 days

#7 posted 02-21-2020 01:05 AM

” lubricate the blade” Not heard that before. Of what do you speak? Should not most anything contaminate the work? Wax for example? Besides, I would think it would wear off in an inch.

View Rich's profile


5364 posts in 1265 days

#8 posted 02-21-2020 01:13 AM

” lubricate the blade” Not heard that before. Of what do you speak? Should not most anything contaminate the work? Wax for example? Besides, I would think it would wear off in an inch.

- tvrgeek

Bostik BladeCote. I use it all the time. It won’t contaminate anything. Use it on bandsaw blades, circular blades, router bits, whatever. Reduces friction and helps reduce pitch buildup on the blade.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View PBWilson1970's profile


63 posts in 69 days

#9 posted 02-21-2020 02:03 AM

Blade-Cote is the stuff I use too. Good stuff. Never even had a hint of contamination when finishing. It dries very quickly and leaves no residue at all. I notice it most when I’m sawing resinous wood such as pine, spruce and rosewoods.

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning.

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