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Peachtree Supreme Fence Kit - Is it any good?

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Forum topic by cdelahousse posted 02-13-2020 03:05 PM 330 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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cdelahousse

2 posts in 33 days


02-13-2020 03:05 PM

Hi! Does anybody have any experience with the Peachtree Supreme Fence Kit? https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_router_fences.htm

I just purchased the Rockler router table package that includes the cast iron top, a lift, a stand and a a bench dog pro fence. So far, everything is great, but I’m looking at the fence and I’m thinking I can do better. I plan on returning it and replacing it.

I’ve looked around and I feel as if the Peachtree Supreme Fence looks pretty good. It has multiple t-tracks will give me a lot of mounting options. The movable UHMW inserts seems pretty unique and way better than the typical MDF.

Does anybody have it?


7 replies so far

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teetomterrific

96 posts in 1002 days


#1 posted 02-13-2020 03:19 PM

I use a Peachtree 32” Aluminum “L” Fence Pre-Drilled, but I have made my own adaptations to it. The Supreme Fence extrusions look interesting but I’ve never bought those from Peachtree. You can see my modifications in the links in my blog about it:
A Router Table with Rack and Pinion Linear Motion DRO Fence

-- Tom, Adams, TN

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AndyJ1s

163 posts in 396 days


#2 posted 02-13-2020 10:06 PM

I have no experience with it, but if your saw happens to have a Unifence, one of the half-fences will work with the Unifence head (e.g. for a cross-cut stop/fence in front of the blade). If you prefer an English/European style rip fence (where the rear of the fence is set even with the back of the gullet on the front of the saw blade), it will work for that too.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

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therealSteveN

4907 posts in 1215 days


#3 posted 02-13-2020 10:50 PM

The thing about this is, do you have in mind what features your fence will have?

If you do, then you could go to 80/20 and buy a length of track stock, and roll your own for a lot less $$$$$.

80/20 garage sale at E Bay….

http://www.ebaystores.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale

-- Think safe, be safe

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CaptainKlutz

2471 posts in 2135 days


#4 posted 02-13-2020 11:43 PM

Own the Peachtree supreme fence – works well for me.
Would recommend it, even though I had a couple of minor challenges detailed below?

Have a Rockler router fence, not worth money. Kept it too long to return, so regulated it a drill press fence where the only t-slot needed was on top. Use the router bit opening for dust collection.

Made the Crestwood fence, and it works nicely. My only issue was I wanted flip stops on top of rail, so I could leave them set and flip them out way. Stops on side of fence required resetting every time they are used. Saw the Peachtree supreme on sale and bought it on whim and don’t regret the decision.

Peachtree supreme fence challenges:
- Angle bracket I received with fence was not 90°, was more like 88° as received. Peachtree replaced it as shipping damage, even though damage might have been handling before shipping? lol But it was non-issue after replacement.

- HDPE inserts that came with fence can be a few thousands difference in thickness than pocket in extrusion. This may or may not be an issue, depending on how you use the fence?

Long explanation, sorry:
Learned that Coefficient of Thermal Expansion (CTE) of aluminum is ~13 and unfilled HDPE is ~130-200 by comparison. The HDPE Ptree uses is filled which reduces the CTE, but was unable to learn any details to know exact CTE.
Why worry?
In colder temps the HDPE is thinner, and it puts the adjustable sides below the extrusion pocket. This creates 2 planes, or slight angle on face of fence.
If I use the fence when it’s 110° here in AZ, the HDPE was above extrusion.
As long as the height of board is less than HDPE height, you will never know about the height difference. So most < 8/4 work it doesn’t matter. When you machine something taller than 2” there MIGHT be a couple thousands of difference.

When it’s smaller, the result is the board catches on the ends as run piece along the fence. My solution was to shim the HDPE panels out with a few sheets of notebook paper. Most of time I use feather boards that are pushing against the lower part of fence, and only 6”+ tall pieces tilt enough to shape profile, which is when I use the Crestwood fence.

I also have several replacement fence inserts made for profile/panel bits. Being a materials engineer, decided to use glass filled Nylon or MDF for replacement inserts. The MDF CTE is below Aluminum and glass filled Nylon is only ~2-2.5x Aluminum .vs. 10-15x of HDPE, and they don’t have same magnitude of issues. Waxed MDF has about same friction as HDPE inserts and can’t really tell any difference in friction while feeding.

PS – I also own the Uni-T-Fence which uses the same extrusion.
The Table saw fence was where I first discovered the height difference between slot and insert panels. When shop was warm, the insert was above the extrusion, and was creating tilted dado slots on tall and narrow pieces – using fence as guide.
Reality is that for tall pieces, should be used a fence jig that better supports the tall piece, so the height difference becomes a non-issue.
Another HDPE challenge with Uni-T-Fence is slight thickness variation is possible if insert bolts are not tightened evenly. Found a couple spots with 0.001 dip in the insert on longer TS fence due over zealous screw tightening, and required a piece of paper to get fence flat. #IAMAKLUTZ

FTR – My shop is not temperature controlled. Winter time temp range is 65°-75°, and summer is 90°to 110°. If I want everything perfectly flat, some of my winter made fixtures need tweaking in summer and visa versa. But I seldom make changes to tools unless I find more than 0.003-0.004” differences, as wood moves enough the chasing precision is never ending game.

Thanks for reading to bottom.
Hope this helps, and YMMV

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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cdelahousse

2 posts in 33 days


#5 posted 02-15-2020 03:10 AM

Wow, CaptainKlutz, that was a great reply. Thanks is for the info. I’d never thought of CTE. I live in Seattle where my shop stays between 15-25c. Ill have to look into how that’ll affect the fence.

Also, I thought the fence used UHMW instead of HDPE?

therealSteven: TBH, this is my first router table, so I am trying to figure out what I want out of it. Ill definitely consider building my own from aluminum extrusion as you mentioned.

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therealSteveN

4907 posts in 1215 days


#6 posted 02-15-2020 05:56 AM

Quite a few online how to’s for a variety of fences. I like a wooden fence from plywood double thick, and the extrusion mounted to it, so I have slots front, and top to attach to.

If you use it much, then probably a tall fence will come into play, and the reality is you almost can’t afford to buy a good one, so making one is the best route. Again double thick ply, no warp, bend, or movement issues, and plenty strong enough to push against, and hand stuff onto. Most of the lower priced commercial stuff just uses some particle board wawawa, and lay a sheet of Formica on it, like that’s gonna make it strong.

Plenty of links for router table dust collection chutes as well, and same for a search for 1/4 20 mounting hardware, everyone has something anymore.

-- Think safe, be safe

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CaptainKlutz

2471 posts in 2135 days


#7 posted 02-15-2020 06:09 AM

Sorry, used HDPE when I should have used UHMW-PE. #IAMAKLUTZ Blush….
The science is still same.
In my defense – cheap UHMW has nearly same properties as HDPE, and there is huge variance between mfg on minimum polymer chain length for UHMW-PE.

https://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=508

The biggest performance difference between the two is how they machine, due UHMW is not as rigid with lower density; and has a lower coefficient of friction.

Speaking of UHMW-PE and CTE: extruded plate UHMW will have different CTE in different directions due orientation of polymer strands. High side CTE of UHMW is as much as 300 ppm .vs. HDPE 200ppm.
This is another reason I chose a short fiber glass filled Nylon 6,6 for replacement inserts when I had some scraps donated to my hobby projects. Filled Nylon is a better CTE match in bearing/wear applications mounted inside metallic structures.

IMHO – Mfg sell us UHMW as the only property that wood workers believes is important is friction.
Due CTE – can’t use UHWM-PE miter slot runners in my shop. The size difference between summer and winter makes for too tight or too sloppy fit, and jig movement – resulting in burned cross cuts.
With your narrow shop temp range, doubt you would even notice the change unless some klutz had not mentioned it? LOL

Sorry for the acronym confusion.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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