Rikon 10-3061 Fence Adjustment

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Forum topic by Coleman Dodds posted 01-27-2020 03:12 AM 2128 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Coleman Dodds

22 posts in 496 days

01-27-2020 03:12 AM

Topic tags/keywords: rikon 10in deluxe bandsaw rikon

I just bought the Rikon 10-3061 and after setting it up I can’t seem to figure out how to square my fence to my miter slot. Does anyone have experience with this? Is this a defect or am I missing something? Thank you for your help.

14 replies so far

View CaptainKlutz's profile


4003 posts in 2467 days

#1 posted 01-31-2020 09:10 AM

Page 13 in the manual shows how to adjust the fence?

Will need to remove the blade to slide the fence all the way to miter slot.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View Mike09's profile


4 posts in 216 days

#2 posted 06-21-2020 04:54 PM

Did you have any luck with this? I have the same question.

The manual says that the little plastic hex screws on the front of the fence carrier adjust the angle of the fence. They don’t seem to. When you engage the cam to clamp the fence, the carrier gets locked between the cam on the front and the back side of the fence carrier. The hex screws don’t engage anything. Even if you tried to force those hex screws in, there is no way a little plastic screw is going to overcome the force of the cam.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5329 posts in 4933 days

#3 posted 06-21-2020 06:02 PM

Don’t fully engage the cam. Remember that small adjustments are a slow and exacting process. Go lightly for this adjustment and you’ll get there.

-- [email protected]

View Mike09's profile


4 posts in 216 days

#4 posted 06-22-2020 03:29 PM

Thanks for the reply! I’m relatively new to woodworking and this is my first bandsaw, and I think I’m still missing something. I don’t see how the plastic hex screws do anything mechanically when the cam is engaged. If the cam is loose, and I push on the carrier to have the two hex screws engage on the front of the guide rail then, if I screw them in and out the fence angle changes. But as soon as I engage the cam fully to do a cut, then the only two things that seem to be involved are the cam on the front and the back of the slide. When I do that the fence isn’t square.

View benchtopper's profile


5 posts in 204 days

#5 posted 07-03-2020 07:38 PM

I agree w/Mike09, who explained the problem quite well. I just starting setting up a new Rikon 10-3061 bandsaw today, and the fence adjustment hex screws do not appear to have any engagement with anything once the cam is pushed down and in contact/engagement with the front rail. Easy to see by simply looking down at the screws. Pushing down on the cam lever pulls the entire carrier assembly/fence away from the rail (toward the operator). The two plastic pads in the back of the carrier assembly are pulled against the rail by action of the cam, thereby clamping the carrier to the rail. Seems like the hex screws should’ve been on the back side of the carrier where the pads are. Some teflon tape on the one of the pads in the back fixed the issue of out-of-parallel with the mitre slot. Not sure if there’s ANY adjustment to the cam gripping pressure, with the exception of more tape adjustments.

I’ll give Rikon a call and see if I’m missing something. I’ll post if anything of value to add here.

btw, I ran a small wood shop for 25 years, which included a Jet 14” floor-model bandsaw. Had no problems at all with it.

View Mike09's profile


4 posts in 216 days

#6 posted 07-03-2020 08:24 PM

Let me know what Rikon says. It seems strange they designed a fence with such an obvious flaw – I felt I had to be missing something. Teflon tape is a good idea for the short term.

View Dale21's profile


1 post in 4722 days

#7 posted 07-06-2020 01:46 PM

I have the same problem with the fence but it is so far off Teflon tape isn’t going to be enough. I agree that adjusting the hex screws won’t help. The only way I have been able to get the fence square is to put the rail on crooked.

The motor started smoking on mine about 3 seconds after turning it on the first time and it took over 3 weeks for Rikon to send me a new one. So I’m not very happy with the saw so far.

View benchtopper's profile


5 posts in 204 days

#8 posted 07-06-2020 09:20 PM

OK, so I spoke with Rikon on this problem/issue of fence adjustment. The problem was with the manual, not the design.

The alignment of the fence w/miter slot is made with two socket head cap screws/bolts in the fence carrier, UNDERNEATH the fence. (see figures 31 through 33 of manual). To access the bolts, loosen the the two plastic thumb knobs pictured on the left side of the carrier fence assembly. In fig. 16 of the manual, you can see (barely) one of these holes. In figure 31 through 33 on pg 17, both holes are shown exposed. Slide the fence forward a bit to expose two holes to access the bolts. Use the Allen wrench provided (third biggest wrench). There’s enough free motion of the fence when these bolts are loose to swing the fence left/right to align the fence parallel with the slot. Tighten the bolts, slide the fence back to normal position and tighten the two knobs.

So the two (perplexing) hex nuts I found do a great job of securing the fence assembly to the hanger bracket attached to the saw frame (upper left side) when not in use. Perhaps the original design objective of these two hex screws? Rikon was aware of the problem, and they emailed me a manual addenda for this fence adjustment exercise. I just went down to my shop and made the adjustment and it worked like it was designed.

View Mike09's profile


4 posts in 216 days

#9 posted 07-06-2020 10:30 PM

Great, thanks for those instructions. Your description was good, and it worked.

View benchtopper's profile


5 posts in 204 days

#10 posted 07-07-2020 03:01 PM

Good to hear Mike09.

I was a bit skeptical about the saw at first dealing w/the fence, but I feel much better now. I’ve been running some wood through to check out the overall operation. so far, so good.

btw, when I called yesterday, the Rikon rep picked up on the second ring. That’s remarkable. And, he had the bandsaw manual up in front of him in just a few seconds, and we talked through the fence issue within a minute’s time. Point being, the Rikon guy was on the problem, and solution, on the spot.

So just one other suggestion about the saw: MARK THE LOCATION OF METAL BALANCING WGTS ON BOTH BANDSAW WHEELS WITH A SHARPIE. I noticed that the two metal wheel balancing clips on the upper wheel were loose, and could easily be removed or slid about. Presumably both were still in the original location on the wheel. The two wgts on the lower wheel wheel seemed tight enough. No way I can think of to relocate the proper position of these wheels if the wgts move or fall off, unless you have some wheel balancing equipment. Anyhow, I marked the location of the balancing weights on BOTH wheels with a Sharpie marker. I also pulled off the two loose wgts of the top wheel, squeeze them down slightly with pliars, and then push them back onto the wheel. They seem to be just spring clips.

View jayhkr's profile


1 post in 148 days

#11 posted 08-28-2020 03:22 PM

Just bought and am the “tuning” portion of everything and I’m so glad i came across this! I too have been trying to figure out why my fence is off. Thank you!

View Warezo's profile


3 posts in 143 days

#12 posted 10-01-2020 06:09 PM

I am setting up the 3061 today after having it in a box for weeks. I’m so glad I found help here on aligning the fence. I was really frustrated! Now to go to the shop and try it. Thanks, everyone.

Update: I adjusted the fence parallel to the slot as described above plus I tapped the ruler with a screwdriver and small hammer to align with the blade at 0”. I think I am setup for now.

View benchtopper's profile


5 posts in 204 days

#13 posted 10-02-2020 01:40 PM

One more subtle, but important observation on the fence adjustments: Regarding the fence LOCK LEVER, I noticed that the force needed to push down and lock the fence in place was quite high, significantly more force than a plastic lever should be designed to take (without eventually cracking). To fix this problem, there are two plastic pads in the back of the fence carrier that can be shaved down (thinner) to reduce the clamp force. These are the pads that are pulled against the back of the rail when locking. The pads can be slide out of the slot, and then LIGHTLY shaved down to reduce the clamping force. Its a bit tricky to shave them just enough to reduce clamping pressure, but it worked well. I cut a small recess in a piece of wood, with the recess size a bit bigger than the footprint of the pad. The recess was deep enough to hold the pad in place, but shallow enough that the pad top surface was exposed for shaving. The force to lock the fence carrier is now noticeably (and comfortably) lower.

View woodyhawk's profile


11 posts in 1278 days

#14 posted 10-31-2020 10:09 PM

Thanks so much for the info. I just bought the same saw and was pulling out my few remaining hairs trying to get the fence square. I tried the method you describe above and it worked great. Thanks!

-- Brett ~ West Des Moines, IA

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