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Forum topic by ttocsmi posted 01-24-2020 02:30 PM 602 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ttocsmi

48 posts in 2029 days


01-24-2020 02:30 PM

Topic tags/keywords: mission table fusion360

Posting renders of my design for review/commentary. Plan to use red oak, stained dark-er brown to match an existing bed frame. Top is 16” x 22”, height is 26” to match mattress height.

Designed using Fusion 360, fully-parameterized.

Thanks!

-- Knight of Sufferlandria 2015


19 replies so far

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

8739 posts in 2791 days


#1 posted 01-24-2020 03:32 PM

I would do a front lower rail to match the sides. Looks odd with just the thickness of the shelf. I’d probably also extend the length of the top a bit more on each side.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View JCamp's profile

JCamp

1048 posts in 1191 days


#2 posted 01-24-2020 03:48 PM

I agree with the bottom rail being needed but I think the top is fine. To each his own tho

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

View SMP's profile

SMP

1800 posts in 546 days


#3 posted 01-24-2020 04:05 PM

What exactly are you looking for? The great thing about mission furniture is there are so many little tweaks you can do to just slightly change things up. Looks great as is. Personally I like exposed M&T on them and the little vertical “wings” on the legs, which would coincide with jmartel saying to extend the top. And I also would choose a front arched section on the lower shelf, especially since the sides are probably adjacent to the bed? Thats my personal preferences, but looks fine as is if thats what you like.

View ibewjon's profile

ibewjon

1254 posts in 3434 days


#4 posted 01-24-2020 05:22 PM

I like to use a thicker piece for the top, and just leave the shelf without the front rail or stretcher. I have many 100 year old original pieces to copy, and mine only have the shelf, no front strecher. And quarter sawn oak for the top. The ray flecks and stability are worth it. White oak would be my choice unless matching existing red oak.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6065 posts in 3454 days


#5 posted 01-24-2020 05:23 PM

Two things…
1. I would make the drawer front run the full width of the opening. It looks really natural when there’s a 1/16” gap between the drawer front and the leg.

2. Lower the bottom shelf position. If you are cutting joinery into the lower rails, you’ll want the shelf to sit a little lower. If you’re just attaching it with cleats, this point won’t matter too much.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View ttocsmi's profile

ttocsmi

48 posts in 2029 days


#6 posted 01-24-2020 06:48 PM

Wow – good feedback everyone! I appreciate it.

jmartel: I had a lower front rail in the original design, but took it out. I’ll add it back in & do a side-by-side comparison. Good idea on extending the top – although i’ll skip the ‘wing supports’ as the bed isn’t as detailed.

JCamp: Thanks for the feedback.

SMP: Not a fan of through-tenons; built some QSWO tables previously that way & didn’t really like it. Thanks.

ibewjon: Thicker top, huh? I’ll think about that too.

pintodeluxe: Interesting idea on the drawer face… although I’m not sure on the joinery of the thin horizontal strips. Just little 3/4” tenons? Regarding the lower shelf height, at first I had it at the height of the upper rails (6”), but will lower it to 6/1.61 = 3.75” and see how it looks.

-- Knight of Sufferlandria 2015

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

631 posts in 820 days


#7 posted 01-24-2020 07:20 PM



Two things…
1. I would make the drawer front run the full width of the opening. It looks really natural when there s a 1/16” gap between the drawer front and the leg.

- pintodeluxe

+1. The way you have it looks clunky to me.

I build a lot of end tables for a living. I either put a stretcher in between or behind the leg. Joinery of your choice. Not a ton of stress there.

You will obviously have to subtract depth of the drawer sides.

View Spotcheck's profile

Spotcheck

29 posts in 3167 days


#8 posted 01-24-2020 07:34 PM

A&C stuff is nearly all my builds forever. I simply dig it. I am confident that Gustav and Harvey would have used my designs had they only asked me :)

> Nope on the lower front rail. To me that is moving to an enclosed cabinet. This is open and “airy” as per the classic style.

> Nightstand – I’m thinking the proportions of a thicker top don’t work here on this scale.

However, on a similar-sized piece [not nightstand] I have curved the sides of the top to mimic the curve of the bottom side rails. Downside here would be I’d drop my glasses in the gap that creates. Upside is fewer cusswords from hitting a 90* corner.

> I’m a big fan of the thru tenons. You aren’t. Ok. Whatever. I get it.

> Yeah – the drawer width needs to cover leg-to-leg. Yeah – small tenons, or DT them in from the back. Or pocket screws if you do that [I never have]. The sticks aren’t structural, so you can do anything you want to. No one but you will ever know. We won’t tell. But that brings up last item:

> Q: Drawer operation: Glides? Runners and kickers? Dust panel?

View ttocsmi's profile

ttocsmi

48 posts in 2029 days


#9 posted 01-24-2020 07:39 PM


I either put a stretcher in between or behind the leg.

Sorry, not sure what that means. Behind the drawer face or on the bottom rail?

-- Knight of Sufferlandria 2015

View ttocsmi's profile

ttocsmi

48 posts in 2029 days


#10 posted 01-24-2020 07:53 PM

Spotcheck: Very good info, thanks.

DT in from the back, huh? I like it. Now I just need to figure out how…

Ball bearing glides for the drawer, with an appropriately-sized block to mount to the side rails. No dust panel, open below the drawer.

-- Knight of Sufferlandria 2015

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

631 posts in 820 days


#11 posted 01-24-2020 07:53 PM

Two things…
1. I would make the drawer front run the full width of the opening. It looks really natural when there s a 1/16” gap between the drawer front and the leg.

- pintodeluxe

+1. The way you have it looks clunky to me.

I build a lot of end tables for a living. I either put a stretcher in between or behind the leg. Joinery of your choice. Not a ton of stress there.

You will obviously have to subtract depth of the drawer sides.

- CWWoodworking

I either put a stretcher in between or behind the leg.

Sorry, not sure what that means. Behind the drawer face or on the bottom rail?

- ttocsmi

That leg looks about 2” so mount the top stretcher in between the legs so when the drawer front front hits it, the reveal is the same as the sides and back.

I make a small table with 1” thick legs, so I mount the stretcher on back side of legs. When the front hits it and the drawer is close, the .25 reveal is the same as side.

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

631 posts in 820 days


#12 posted 01-24-2020 07:55 PM

I need to learn fusion 360.

View Spotcheck's profile

Spotcheck

29 posts in 3167 days


#13 posted 01-24-2020 09:03 PM


Spotcheck: Very good info, thanks.

DT in from the back, huh? I like it. Now I just need to figure out how…

Ball bearing glides for the drawer, with an appropriately-sized block to mount to the side rails. No dust panel, open below the drawer.

- ttocsmi

TTOC -

Grab a saw, a chisel, and a [big] hammer and whack away. Thick CA or epoxy, plus shavings and other detritus to fill occasional gaps as needed. As I said – when it’s done, only you will ever know what it looks like in there, so you can spin the story any way you like.

Be sure to let us see how it turns out…...........

Like your design, and, in honor of Neil Young’s newly minted American citizenship: Keep on rockin’ in the free world

EDIT: BTW, I mentioned through tenons. Let no tenon go un-throughed is my mantra. QSWO. 4 side chairs, went with 2 arm chairs, 2 side tables and a 40” x 86” breadboard end dining table.

View ibewjon's profile

ibewjon

1254 posts in 3434 days


#14 posted 01-24-2020 09:36 PM

Nice work on those chairs! All of our original pieces have the thicker top. A 1/4” makes it look better, more solid.

View AndyJ1s's profile

AndyJ1s

163 posts in 396 days


#15 posted 01-26-2020 01:10 AM

That tiny strip of wood visible on the inside bottom side rails, above the shelf, looks out of proportion to the rest of the piece.

I would set the bottom shelf a little lower on the bottom side rails, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the way down those rails, leaving more of the bottom side rail above the shelf.

Andy

-- Andy - Arlington TX

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