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Bought a disappearing splitter for Unisaw. Wrong bracket?

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Forum topic by kyngfish posted 01-23-2020 02:36 AM 587 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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kyngfish

115 posts in 943 days


01-23-2020 02:36 AM

Bought what I thought was a splitter for right tilt older Unisaws. But bracket doesn’t seem to fit. There’s a large bolt with a but that seems to be where the second screw should go.

Any ideas? I guess I could get someone to cut the bracket so it fits in the screw holes…


17 replies so far

View hkmiller's profile

hkmiller

244 posts in 935 days


#1 posted 01-23-2020 02:44 AM

I think my splitter has different mounting holes in the splitter . Where did you buy the splitter?

-- always something

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8213 posts in 3053 days


#2 posted 01-23-2020 03:03 AM

Not sure what that big bolt thing is for, but mine doesn’t have it. Here is a pic:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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kyngfish

115 posts in 943 days


#3 posted 01-23-2020 03:05 AM

Bummer.

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MrUnix

8213 posts in 3053 days


#4 posted 01-23-2020 03:14 AM

Are you sure that bolt thingie isn’t part of the standard splitter/guard assembly, which needs to be removed in order to fit the disappearing splitter? Do you have the installation instructions for the disappearing splitter? What you have doesn’t look any different than mine, and that big bolt in the way looks like it needs to be removed and replaced with a button head screw.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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kyngfish

115 posts in 943 days


#5 posted 01-23-2020 03:29 AM

No idea what the big bolt is – but even if I pull it off. The threads in it are way bigger than the hole on the splitter bracket. My splitter does look like brads splitter.

I already took off the riving knife bracket from mine. My saw is from 1979 ish.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8213 posts in 3053 days


#6 posted 01-23-2020 03:33 AM

Here is the parts diagram... from the looks of it, that ‘bolt’ is part of the original splitter assembly and needs to be removed along with the shaft that hangs out the back – all of that stuff is no longer needed. If you want to use a blade guard, then you need to get an over-arm one. The disappearing splitter was introduced along with the over-arm uniguard.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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kyngfish

115 posts in 943 days


#7 posted 01-23-2020 03:39 AM

Weird. You’re saying it’s the 17-18 nut? Thanks for finding this.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8213 posts in 3053 days


#8 posted 01-23-2020 03:44 AM

Weird. You’re saying it’s the 17-18 nut? Thanks for finding this.
- kyngfish

#16, 17 and 18 on that diagram along with anything else hanging off the back. It all goes.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Sark's profile

Sark

321 posts in 1214 days


#9 posted 01-23-2020 03:52 AM

Since you have different hole configuration than my splitter (two holes in vertical line), I assume that there are different splitters manufactured by Delta for different Unisaw models.

While my splitter mounted without trouble, the splitter itself could not be made to line up with the sawblade. So I had to add a vibration dampener on the motor side of the shaft to move the blade 1/8” to the left, and then reinstall a new tape. A real annoyance…so the aftermarket splitter is not a one size fits all, even though its by the original manufacturer, and the Unisaw is mostly the same from year to year…. Lot of complaints about the splitter design.

Mr. Unix may be right… try replacing the bolt with a button head screw. Easy to try

View kyngfish's profile

kyngfish

115 posts in 943 days


#10 posted 01-23-2020 04:17 AM

Mr. Unix was on the money. Slid right out and the big screw in the bottom of my splitter bracket went right in. I need to get some kind of hex screw to go in the top hole so it doesn’t interfere with the splitter. Also. Does the splitter stay in place when you tighten with the set screw in the bracket?

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MrUnix

8213 posts in 3053 days


#11 posted 01-23-2020 04:36 AM

If it’s the set screw i think you are talking about (#83 in the diagram), that is to set the spring loaded ball tension. The ball catches a detent on the splitter when fully raised to hold it up. I can’t remember if you can overtighten it or not – it’s been a while. I also can’t remember if that ball will go shooting out if you remove the splitter with it under spring tension. Anyway, here is a shot of the ball, spring and set screw:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View kyngfish's profile

kyngfish

115 posts in 943 days


#12 posted 01-23-2020 04:45 AM

Looks like the steel ball is 1/4” but the spring length and diameter isn’t shown. Dunno if I can trouble you to tell me the size? Looks like I’m missing them. If that’s not yours in the pic. No issues. Looks like the spring is about an inch. And about a quarter inch wide.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8213 posts in 3053 days


#13 posted 01-23-2020 05:20 AM

Looks like the steel ball is 1/4” but the spring length and diameter isn’t shown. Dunno if I can trouble you to tell me the size? Looks like I’m missing them. If that’s not yours in the pic. No issues. Looks like the spring is about an inch. And about a quarter inch wide.
- kyngfish

Yeah, that is a picture of mine but it’s a bit inaccessible at the moment. I’m not sure how critical it is given the set screw can be used to adjust the pressure though. You can probably find something that will work at your local hardware store… my local ACE has all sorts of stuff like that.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

3604 posts in 2348 days


#14 posted 01-23-2020 06:16 AM

Hmm, Guess I figured out who bought that used $35 splitter from fleabay I was considering. lol

Sark Your difficulty with location of splitter and blade is curable without any bushings, or new tape.
There are adjustments inside the saw!

For the benefit of everyone, will try to explain:

1) Look closely at the arbor bracket mounting location in pivot shaft. There is a bolt that clamps the arbor to the pivot shaft. You can slide the arbor location to move the blade side to side. Will mention this also moves the arbor pulley, and might need to adjust the motor pulley position on shaft to get belts into a vertical alignment. There are a couple of spring washers on the pivot shaft to keep the arbor in a ‘neutral’ position, but for one saw I need a couple of shim washers to close the gap and keep arbor from sliding side to side.

2) The cast iron table top has less adjustment side to side than the arbor shaft attachment. Making the adjustment for splitter on a existing saw, may mean not being able to realign the top to existing ZCI slot.
Hence, it’s best to make this blade location adjustment before you insert your brand new ZCI and cut a slot for blade. DAMHIK
Once the cast iron top is adjusted, your existing movement on the fence cursor should cover getting fence zeroed.

If you hands are not too large, can reach the arbor bolt blind with top still attached, but it is PIA. The easiest way to make the adjustment is with top removed, then mount top and fence.

Hope this helps?

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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therealSteveN

6283 posts in 1428 days


#15 posted 01-23-2020 06:43 AM

Sharkguard can get you the correct parts. For my General they had me carefully measure my hole placement, fits like a glove.

Sharkguard.

https://www.thesharkguard.com/

-- Think safe, be safe

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