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how to fasten to cinder block

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Forum topic by Karda posted 01-20-2020 04:11 AM 488 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karda

2050 posts in 1195 days


01-20-2020 04:11 AM

Hi, I want to make a saw till and the only place I have to put is on a sinder block was. What is the best way to fasten something that heavy to sinder block thanks


13 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7719 posts in 2840 days


#1 posted 01-20-2020 04:19 AM

Not sure of how much weight you are talking, but I’ve always used lag bolts and lead anchors to attach to cinder block walls.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View kroginold's profile

kroginold

41 posts in 1689 days


#2 posted 01-20-2020 04:23 AM

If these are hollow blocks you can use toggle bolts. If solid then lag screws and lead anchors. Other choice is to put up furring strips with a nail gun then plywood or OSB sheeting and attach whatever you want to that

View Snipes's profile

Snipes

458 posts in 2885 days


#3 posted 01-20-2020 04:24 AM

Tapcons and glue Or redhead

-- if it is to be it is up to me

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

628 posts in 1260 days


#4 posted 01-20-2020 12:11 PM

I use tapcons. A saw till is not all that heavy for a simple vertical load.

-- Sawdust Maker

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2196 posts in 803 days


#5 posted 01-20-2020 01:22 PM

I would go ahead and install cleat boards now – then you will have
a place for additional projects in the future without any drilling.

.

.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

24681 posts in 3324 days


#6 posted 01-20-2020 02:15 PM

Do NOT drill into the mortar joints….they will just crumble, and not hold (VOE)

Measure dead center on the block faces, usually 8” from either joint. This is where the center web is. The thinner sections tend to crack/sprawl when drilled through. Aim for that center web….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Don W's profile

Don W

19500 posts in 3208 days


#7 posted 01-20-2020 02:34 PM



I would go ahead and install cleat boards now – then you will have
a place for additional projects in the future without any drilling.

.

.

- John Smith

I agree

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

484 posts in 242 days


#8 posted 01-20-2020 02:50 PM

Also be advised that concrete walls tend to have a high moisture content. You should make sure the metal is not going to be up against the block. A french cleat with a back board of some sort should take care of it.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8816 posts in 3218 days


#9 posted 01-20-2020 02:56 PM



Do NOT drill into the mortar joints….they will just crumble, and not hold (VOE)

Measure dead center on the block faces, usually 8” from either joint. This is where the center web is. The thinner sections tend to crack/sprawl when drilled through. Aim for that center web….

- bandit571

This ^.

View Karda's profile

Karda

2050 posts in 1195 days


#10 posted 01-20-2020 09:43 PM

thanks for the suggestion, weight wise not a lot. I don’t think it wold be over 30 pounds probably less.

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

1000 posts in 1743 days


#11 posted 01-24-2020 05:48 PM


Do NOT drill into the mortar joints….they will just crumble, and not hold (VOE)

Measure dead center on the block faces, usually 8” from either joint. This is where the center web is. The thinner sections tend to crack/sprawl when drilled through. Aim for that center web….

- bandit571


I respectfully disagree. The best place to anchor is in the joint area. Of course, you shouldn’t do this with small diameter Tapcons or plastic shields that depend only on the mortar to hold them. But, if you use larger expansion shields (like those referenced by MrUnix above) that will grip onto the ends of the blocks themselves, you will have the greatest load bearing as this is where the mass of the wall is. In that location, you have two webs, one on either side of the joint and only an inch or so away to provide strength and mass. If you can “hit” the center web, I think that would be the second best location.

Having said the above, I understand that what you are proposing is not critically heavy and lighter duty anchoring will probably suffice. However, for heavier applications, the location of anchors is important.

View Karda's profile

Karda

2050 posts in 1195 days


#12 posted 01-24-2020 09:46 PM

will concrete screws work, I have used them but not much weight was involved

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

3679 posts in 1461 days


#13 posted 01-24-2020 10:37 PM


I would go ahead and install cleat boards now – then you will have
a place for additional projects in the future without any drilling.
- John Smith
I agree
- Don W

Good idea. Ditto to the agree... that makes 3…, however, you will still need to drill holes for the cleats… The longer the cleat the better you can space the bolts…

Use bandit571’s suggestion for marking out the drill holes…

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

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