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Forum topic by Karda posted 01-10-2020 10:33 PM 899 views 1 time favorited 43 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karda

1966 posts in 1160 days


01-10-2020 10:33 PM

Hi,i picked up and old plane, never used a plane much. I adjusted it so it cut ok. But wanting to refine it more i watched some videos on setting up a plane. Now it wont cut. In I noticed this time that the cutting edge is axs far back in the mouth that it will go and i can not get the blade up to the front of the moth where it belongs. I moved the frog as far forward as it goes. If the edge extends forward it also extends out and won’t cut. the plane is a Millers Falls, 14”long thanks


43 replies so far

View Sylvain's profile

Sylvain

933 posts in 3106 days


#1 posted 01-11-2020 08:33 PM

Sharpening and Setting the Bench Plane

- be sure that the edge-bevel is lower than 45°, usually 25° to 30°; otherwise the iron will skate on the wood (some relief angle is necessary);
- be sure that the cutting-iron is sharp;
- be sure that the cutting-iron bevel is down and the cap-iron is on top of the cutting-iron ;-)
- verify how far the cap-iron edge is from the cutting-iron edge;
- be sure the depth-adjusting yoke is engaged in the corresponding cap-iron slot otherwise the adjustment will not work.

Moving the frog forward will help.

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

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Karda

1966 posts in 1160 days


#2 posted 01-12-2020 03:42 AM

I moved the frog forward that helped, I can cut with it bit not much, chips get caught under the chip breaket and glog the throat. I found the chip breaker is not square, how do i square it. As far as I can tell nothing can get between the breaker and the blade yet it does

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Sylvain

933 posts in 3106 days


#3 posted 01-12-2020 08:12 AM

Sorry the “not” did not print.
I wanted to write “will not help”.

Aligning the cap-iron with the cut-iron is shown in the above video at about 9’30”.

preparation of the cap iron is shown in this video at about 52’ 00”

The back of the cutting iron has to be flat where it meets the cap-iron.

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

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remdds

39 posts in 3232 days


#4 posted 01-12-2020 10:05 AM

I can’t see in your picture. Is it possible that you flipped the blade upside down? i.e. bevel up vs bevel down?

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Don W

19428 posts in 3174 days


#5 posted 01-12-2020 12:31 PM

Make sure the chip breaker is tuned and polished. If it’s out of square it probably means someone has already messed with it. You can attempt to square it but it’s likely to wind up to short.

https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/02/16/tuning-the-cap-iron-chip-breaker/

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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bandit571

24397 posts in 3290 days


#6 posted 01-12-2020 05:59 PM

bevel side…

chipbreaker side..1mm back from the edge…back is flat, edge of chipbreaker ground to knife edge, zero light shows through, when these two are held together..

frog is coplanar to the ramp.

re-install, add the lever cap

make sure the lateral lever’s end fits into the iron’s slot. adjust depth until it barely cuts..

adjust lateral lever, to get a wide shaving

plane is a no. 900. same year as the OP’s no. 814.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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Phil32

845 posts in 510 days


#7 posted 01-12-2020 06:16 PM

Be sure you are using the same terms. Cutting iron = blade. Cap iron = chip breaker.

-- Phil Allin - There are mountain climbers and people who talk about climbing mountains. The climbers have "selfies" at the summit!

View Karda's profile

Karda

1966 posts in 1160 days


#8 posted 01-12-2020 07:07 PM

I thought the cap iron is what holds everything in place. No the bevel is not down. In the videos i watched the blade is supposed to be almost to the far edge of the throat, but they were demonstrating on Stanley #4 mine is a Millers Falls #90.My blade is hardly extended when it is ready to cut picture is the frog as it is set and pictures of the blade 1st when it wont cut yet and when it will.

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bondogaposis

5605 posts in 2958 days


#9 posted 01-12-2020 11:43 PM

No the bevel is not down.

It should be.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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MacAttack1

1 post in 157 days


#10 posted 01-13-2020 12:04 AM

Hey Karda,

Your plane looks the equivalent of a Stanley #6. If you haven’t had it yet, the experience of using a plane is very satisfying when it is working well. Not sure how much you want to put into it, but the new blade and chip breaker sets can make all the difference. You can find them on sale now also. Either way, get some good sharpening gear.
Careful though, before you know it you will have 10 planes and think you need more.

View smitdog's profile

smitdog

445 posts in 2712 days


#11 posted 01-13-2020 12:33 AM

Hi Karda,
Not sure about the video you are watching but for your plane the bevel should be down. The cap iron – chip breaker (same thing) should be attached to the straight side (facing up) not the beveled side with about 1/32” of the blade exposed for most wood, even closer for tough grains. Then the lever cap (the part that you were calling the cap iron) goes on top of that to hold everything together.

To get it ready to actually plane – Sight down the bed of the plane (bottom) and use the depth adjuster until you just barely see the blade stick out so you can see if it is skewed. The blade should be parallel to the bed so use the lateral adjuster until it’s as close you can tell by eye. Then use the depth adjuster again to pull the blade back in until it just disappears into the bed. Now you can try to plane the board. It probably won’t take a shaving yet so just turn the depth adjuster a little and try again until it finally starts to shave the board. Once you get a couple good shavings then check out one of them to see if it is the same thickness across. If it’s thicker on one side and fethered off super thin on the other then you need to use the lateral adjuster just a tiny bit until you get a nice consistent shaving. Look up Rob Cosman has an excellent video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2urnuIOAS8o

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

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Don W

19428 posts in 3174 days


#12 posted 01-13-2020 01:13 AM

https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/know-your-plane-parts/

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View corelz125's profile

corelz125

991 posts in 1583 days


#13 posted 01-13-2020 02:46 AM

Check if the iron is square also

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

24397 posts in 3290 days


#14 posted 01-13-2020 03:01 AM

That Millers Falls V-line plane….a look at how the iron was set up..

2” wide Solid Tool Steel iron, bevel down. These irons are actually thicker than the Stanley ones…They made just 2 sizes of planes for the V-line…a #4 size, and a #5 size…..Happen to have the #90/900, the jack planes I have are #14..

Uses the same size iron as the #90/900 planes…

This is the #14…has barely any camber ( my other #14 does have a bit more)

The bad part about buying the new iron/chipbreaker sets? Rarely fit as well as the old ones….withouth a file being involved. And, the tab for the depth adjustor rarely reaches high enough to be of much use. Thicker is not better…sharper is.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Karda's profile

Karda

1966 posts in 1160 days


#15 posted 01-13-2020 03:23 AM

I checked the bevel is down but I can see from the picture why you would think not. The iron is almost square, it drop off a little on one corner. I had to square the edge it was way out

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