Shop Layout - Dust Collection Q

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Forum topic by jta posted 12-31-2019 11:19 PM 916 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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59 posts in 998 days

12-31-2019 11:19 PM

See Post 4 Below for the updated set of questions.

So I’ve been working on organizing the space I share with the garage for a while, and have finally managed to piece together something that I think works, as planned/illustrated using the Grizzly site. I plan to refine it somewhat to the exact dimensions, but its pretty close, but you get the gist. The power outlets are setup up as they are (220V for the DC, 220V for the bandsaw/jointer on the left, 220V on the back wall as well, plus high amp 110V outlets a plenty), and while there is void below the dust collector in the lower left hand corner, thats occupied by…the things one tends to find in a garage. The large box in that area reflects my wood rack/storage as it stands. The area on the right is storage currently 2 shelves for tools. The other tools indicated are a 17” bandsaw, a 14” drill press on rolling stand, an 8” G0500 jointer.

My question re dust collection is am I better to run the 6” main along the perimeter wall (as roughly indicated), or out as a main run thats ~5-6ft south off the wall with side outward drops towards the wall, thereby minimizing potential static pressure drop and maybe something I can drop down to the planer/table saw. The dust collector I’m using will be a 3HP Grizzly, hooked up to a SDD XL, venting outside. The main reason for this question is in ‘active’ mode, the planer and table saw will be mid-room (currently I’m using a portable table saw, so hence this will be more relevant in the future), and I’m wondering if I’m better getting the main duct close, or instead running a deployable flex pipe. Most of the other tools can be rolled out if I need to work with larger stock (everything will be on wheels). The grinder/sander on the workbench is temporary until I can work out the best config there, but I have a cool design for a space efficient workbench in mind that will eventually occupy that spot, and I will probably put the sharpner/sander on wheels as well, maybe as a flip top.

Appreciate any thoughts.

9 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7020 posts in 3606 days

#1 posted 01-01-2020 12:14 PM

My thoughts: you have a very good DC, and I’m guessing that either plan will work. But I’d be inclined to do your second option, just to minimize the flex that’s would be in use. You have your tools bunched quite nicely, so none of the runs will be overly long, but minimizing the length and the amount of flex will still be a good thing.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View fivecodys's profile


1739 posts in 2749 days

#2 posted 01-02-2020 10:06 PM

Like you my shop has two modes. (1) Shop Mode (2) Garage Mode.
When I was designing my DC system I had to take into account the wife’s car when in Garage Mode.
I used 5” metal ducting for my system and I have a drop real close to where the table-saw is when in Shop Mode.
I use flex hose to make the connection from duct work to machine. It stores up out of the way when in garage Mode.

(Garage Mode)

(Shop Mode)

My joiner, planer, and band-saw stay pretty close to the wall where the duct-work originates so that part was easy.

Hope this is helpful.

-- A bad day woodworking is still better than a good day working.

View teetomterrific's profile


120 posts in 1474 days

#3 posted 01-10-2020 03:32 AM

I would go with the second option and use spiral pipe or sds pvc for the main. As Fred said above you want to minimize the flex pipe as much as you can so solid branches to get you close to the tools would be best if you can swing it. My shop is dedicated so no cars and I have an 8’ main with 6” branches off of a 5HP cyclone.

-- Tom, Adams, TN

View jta's profile


59 posts in 998 days

#4 posted 04-18-2021 12:27 AM

Quarantine put everything on hold and I instead worked on a few other projects, but wanted to revisit this for some advice. I’m planning on running a Nordfab (may have to redo/move at some point) w/ 6” main line with 6” drops and reducers to the tools until I’m in a position to modify them how I want to for those that need 6” all the way. The plans have changed a little as I will have more space with the garden tools and other clutter being moved to an external shed (huzzah). This will move the wood storage in the footprint above further toward the wall/door corner, and leave more open room for the tools and working.

DC is a Grizzly 3HP attached to a Super Dust Deputy XL (6” port) with a 55 gallon drum collector that will be venting outside (yes I’m aware of the implications for heating – but the space is not in the house bubble, nor complete so shouldn’t be an issue). From the SDD inlet I intend to run a length of nordfab rigid steel flex to gradually transition into the line. From there I’ve been playing with 3 potential configurations, visualized using illustrator below (not great scale as I normally don’t use this feature), but hopefully you get the idea. In any of the 3 configurations I want 4 drops:
1. Drop to bandsaw, which requires two 4” inputs (Grizzly 17” 503X2)
2. Drop to jointer, which requires a single output (its a G0500 Jointer, so I’ve got a 4” port currently).
3. Drop to Planer in smaller board config/dust shroud for Lathe
4. Drop to Tablesaw/Planer in longer board config (at the moment my Tablesaw is a Bosch contractor, I plan to upgrade this to a Sawstop PCS if I can find one or a Grizzly 0833P, while my planer is a DW735, again I might upgrade this in the future).

Plan is to minimize the length of flex to any tool with a drop (1-2 feet at most) and keeping the transition as close as possible. The walls are 10ft tall in this garage and I’d like to run the duct up at roof level.

In terms of materials, I already have (and hence may influence configuration).
4×5ft length 6” duct
4×90 6” 1 Radius
2×6”x6”X6” splits at 30 deg
1×6”x6”x”4 at 30 deg
5 clamps
4 6” Lee Valley Blast Gates, 1 4” blast gate.

So my questions:
1. Which of the 3 options makes sense given the length of main – I’ve played with the static pressure but wanting a second opinion.
2. Does anyone have experience with the best way to connect nordfab to a SDD XL inlet? Anyone tried using the rigid flex duct they have (steel gradual bend).
3. When running the drops – what’s best practice here to transition from a 30 degree? In the wall configuration (Option 1), I’d assume you run with the 30 down, and then into a 60? In the configuration 2 or 3 – you’d run the 30 into a 60, then a length of straight and into a 90 down the wall?
4. Is there a better configuration than any of the below?

Appreciate any input or suggestions on top of your thoughts on config – planning on putting in an order for the remaining parts soon so I can get this system in place.

Option 1:

Option 2:

Option 3:

View ibewjon's profile


2471 posts in 3906 days

#5 posted 04-18-2021 01:13 AM

Every drop means the dc has to lift. My duct is run on the wall about 3’ high. Most of my tools are along the walls. I have an overhead run for a future shark guard on my ts…Works great. I have 5” snap lok steel duct and a 2 hp dc with a pleated filter.

View mtnwalton's profile


101 posts in 2139 days

#6 posted 04-18-2021 03:52 AM

Every drop means the dc has to lift. My duct is run on the wall about 3 high. Most of my tools are along the walls. I have an overhead run for a future shark guard on my ts…Works great. I have 5” snap lok steel duct and a 2 hp dc with a pleated filter.

- ibewjon

+1; I ran 4” pvc along a wall just under the table saw table height, Dust collector is 3hp Jet cyclone. I have inlets along the wall and collapsible 4” hose from Rockler for jointer, sander, planer, router etc. Plenty of suction .

View jta's profile


59 posts in 998 days

#7 posted 04-18-2021 04:13 AM

As the outlet from the SDD is going to be around 6ft off the ground minimum (not by choice, but the reality of sitting on top of a 55 gallon drum – 34” + wheels for base ~3” + short flex ~4 inch” + SDD XL 31.1” to center of inlet = 72.1”) going to be stuck with at least some level of drop unless I split it early – that is of course not an option for whatever section runs to the tablesaw/planer (D4), as I need the clearance there. As I’m a really tall guy (6’6”), I’m not as worried about reachable as that is nearly the roof level in any case.

View Madmark2's profile


2828 posts in 1701 days

#8 posted 04-18-2021 05:57 AM

Perimeter run is longest possible run with greatest static loss. Shorter is better.

Most efficient is centralized unit with central manifold and direct star configuration, only 1 leg open at a time.

Eliminate T fittings. If absolutely required at manifold use curved Y fittings with “bottom” facing intake line. Blast gates at manifold not at tool!

Minimize rise & falls. Ideal height ends level with intake, falling slightly from far ends.

Use smooth wall tube instead of wire hose.

Metal blast gates.

Use two 45° fittings instead of one 90° fitting.

Metal tape your joints and seams.

Slip on fittings slip off with vibration. Cut X slits 3/4” or so deep in outer plastic fitting. Tape and use screw type (not wire loop) hose clamp until tight. Screws keep plastic fittings from falling apart but do nothing to maintain vacuum seal.

DC explosions from static discharge is an urban myth.

Dust Collectors only collect dust. They are not designed for general litter clean up although many use them that way.

Clean up shop litter with a shop vac. Difference is that stand alone DC separates after impeller, shop vacs separate before the impeller. Is why shop vacs don’t go pa-ting! when they suck up a screw — no impeller to ding. Is another reason why it’s good to install an intake separator on your DC.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View david2011's profile


156 posts in 4820 days

#9 posted 05-06-2021 03:08 AM

All I can add to this is that I have Oneida separators on my Shop Vac and the 2 HP Jet DC. They;re some of the best additions to my shop.

-- David

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