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Glue squeeze out in parallel bar clamps?

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Forum topic by Jeremymcon posted 12-24-2019 12:15 AM 682 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jeremymcon

415 posts in 1534 days


12-24-2019 12:15 AM

I just bought a couple bora portamate parallel bar clamps when they were on sale st Woodcraft. I have never owned any before, always using either pipe clamps or those aluminum bar clamps.

I liked them a lot until I took them off my cutting board glue up, and found my squeeze out dried on the little serrated section of the clamp! It faces up on these clamps, and a little glue on that surface makes it impossible to move the clamping head past! In pipe clamps the head would just chip the glue off and it was no big deal.

Anyone have a good suggestion for removing the glue and/or preventing this from happening?


11 replies so far

View Mike_in_STL's profile

Mike_in_STL

1292 posts in 1389 days


#1 posted 12-24-2019 12:20 AM

Jim of Stumpy Nubs just did a video on this.

Parallel Clamp Tune Up

-- Sawdust makes me whole --Mike in STL

View wildwoodbybrianjohns's profile

wildwoodbybrianjohns

1993 posts in 402 days


#2 posted 12-24-2019 01:06 AM

Preventing, I use either blue painters tape, or packing tape on the clamps.

-- Wildwood by Brian Johns: The Big Bang: Nothing - exploded into Everything. Thanks to Nothing.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

6290 posts in 1429 days


#3 posted 12-24-2019 03:59 AM

A coat of paste wax before, allows dried glue to really easily chip, crumble off. Reapply as needed

But any cover over the bars are a step in eliminating a future headache.

For removing what is there already I’ve always used a heat gun. PVA glues start to soften at 160 degrees, All of them start getting drippy at 200. Yep hot enough to burn your hands if you grab them, but way below any level that will affect the metal bars, now the plastic heads are a different story, wire brush close to them. They may not burn up, but they could warp. I stay 6” away from them.

-- Think safe, be safe

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Jeremymcon

415 posts in 1534 days


#4 posted 12-24-2019 04:02 AM

Ah! Heat gun sounds doable. And paste wax. Are they worth extra effort vs pipe clamps that don’t mind a little squeeze out? I’ll have to keep using them and decide if I’ll want any more.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

5824 posts in 2242 days


#5 posted 12-24-2019 04:22 AM

+1 on waxing them, though I would wax the pipe clamps too to make the glue pop off of them more easily. I’ve never had a problem chipping the glue off just using my fingernail.

Are they better than pipe clamps? Only you can decide that based upon the type of projects you do.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6428 posts in 3348 days


#6 posted 12-24-2019 11:36 AM



A coat of paste wax before, allows dried glue to really easily chip, crumble off. Reapply as needed

But any cover over the bars are a step in eliminating a future headache.

For removing what is there already I ve always used a heat gun. PVA glues start to soften at 160 degrees, All of them start getting drippy at 200. Yep hot enough to burn your hands if you grab them, but way below any level that will affect the metal bars, now the plastic heads are a different story, wire brush close to them. They may not burn up, but they could warp. I stay 6” away from them.

- therealSteveN

Right there is what I’ve done in the past and it works well.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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therealSteveN

6290 posts in 1429 days


#7 posted 12-25-2019 05:23 AM

I know one thing for sure. If this happens on those small clicks on a Bessey clamp, you will only forget to wax, or cover them one time. Unless you enjoy heating and brushing wax off clamp bars, hateful work.

-- Think safe, be safe

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5844 posts in 3206 days


#8 posted 12-25-2019 02:08 PM

Yeah that happened to me the first time I used parallel bar clamps then I got smart and applied paste wax to them right out of the box. It is a good idea to use on your F clamps as well.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View JackDuren's profile

JackDuren

1324 posts in 1814 days


#9 posted 12-25-2019 03:09 PM

I’ve never cleaned the glue off mine and they work fine…

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

4007 posts in 2077 days


#10 posted 12-26-2019 04:53 PM

Most often for me the action of sliding the jaw down will bust loose any dried glue, but waxing/tape is a much better option.

For the jaw faces, I skim off any glue with a razor blade. Don’t dig into the plastic, just angle enough to catch the edge of the blob and it’ll pop right off.

View BlueRidgeDog's profile

BlueRidgeDog

708 posts in 634 days


#11 posted 12-26-2019 07:04 PM

Mine have not seen a glob of glue that they did not bust through easily. I have never waxed them, but may after reading the recommendation.

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