SawStop 1.75hp v 3hp

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Forum topic by MtnViewWoodcraft posted 12-23-2019 10:57 PM 872 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 964 days

12-23-2019 10:57 PM

I am in the process of buying a new table saw at the end of our move next month. While I would love nothing more than a 3hp swawstop, I am also renting. I don’t know if the new landlord will allow me to have an electrician put in a 220v outlet in the garage, if not then no 3hp.

So in anticipation that I will not be able to do so, does anyone have any experience with the 1.75hp? Anyone have experience with both? please advise.

16 replies so far

View Rayne's profile


1315 posts in 2456 days

#1 posted 12-23-2019 11:04 PM

FWIW, If you’re renting, I wouldn’t bother putting in a 220 unless you plan to live there long term. The 1.75HP can be upgraded to a 3HP in the future if you move into a permanent residence, so you have that option. I can’t speak for the 1.75HP but from reading many other people’s experiences, they’ve been quite happy with it and only wish for the 3HP on a few projects. I myself have the 3HP and did install the 220 in my home for that purpose.

View pintodeluxe's profile


6231 posts in 3730 days

#2 posted 12-23-2019 11:23 PM

3hp = happiness.

Not sure about the 1.75hp model.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View LesB's profile


2669 posts in 4360 days

#3 posted 12-24-2019 12:01 AM

As a Landloard myself if I allowed you to set up a table saw then I would allow you to “professionally” add 220v circuit. At my rental I would actually add the outlet myself for a “good” tenant and just charge for the materials. To a very small degree it does add to the value of the house. For a past tenant I added a 30 amp 120v outlet so they could have a small dry sauna in the garage.

First, before even asking the owner I would check to see if there is enough space in the electrical panel to add a 220 circuit.

The l.75 hp model is probably adequate as long as you don’t expect to rip 3” thick boards with it.

-- Les B, Oregon

View CaptainKlutz's profile


3835 posts in 2411 days

#4 posted 12-24-2019 12:21 AM

1.75hp .vs. 3hp is same on any TS. The 3HP will run stronger, and chew through 8/4 with ease. The 1.75hp will need slower feed rate in thick lumber, and prefer thin kerf blades. Challenge with thin kerf blades is they flex under excess pressure and can burn edges more easily.
Bottom line; More power offers more flexibility in blade selection and higher throughput.
But both will work wood.

BTW – If you have a laundry room next to the garage; you may be in luck.
Simply make a 30ft 10/3 extension cord and use the existing 30A dryer outlet for your 3HP TS.
Cost ~$75 parts to make one. Works well, no need for electrician.

The decision to install a 240v outlet in rental property garage is complex. I would not dismiss it without investigation. If the panel is close to garage, installing a single 240v 20A outlet can be done for $40 in parts, and 1 hour labor. A reasonable electrician can do it for $125 and make good money. If you need 30A add another $25 in parts. Now, If you have run a bunch of wire in wall/ceiling, or add conduit; then parts/labor gets expensive fast.
Getting landlord approval is not too hard these days IME, as most landlords will allow adding a electric vehicle charging plug (240v/30a typical). It adds value to their house. Have been able to add power in my last 3 rental homes. One even paid for parts to install a 100A sub-panel for garage power! LOL

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View JoeK1's profile


30 posts in 1331 days

#5 posted 12-24-2019 12:31 AM

I have had both. My use has been hobby, smaller projects. If I had a high tooth count blade installed did not want change blades for a couple of short 8/4 hard maple rip cuts, I could get by with the 3HP with less chance of burn marks than the 1.75. There was also the perception that the 3HP started quicker, with more authority so to speak. Good, sharp blades of the correct type can help make up for difference in HP. If you will have a electric dryer outlet in the garage that has a ground connection (usually 4 wire now days), you could consider the use of a cord made up with the mating connectors. Switching the cord for each could get tiresome also.

View sansoo22's profile


1289 posts in 571 days

#6 posted 12-24-2019 02:43 AM

I don’t own either saw but I rented my last place and thought I would only be there a couple years. SEVEN years later I finally bought my new place. I say its worth asking the landlord about it. My landlord would have done the same thing as Les B for me. If I paid for materials he would have sent his electrician over to wire up the 220 for me.

If you think you will want the 3 HP later I would definitely ask the landlord about it. Worst that happens is they say no and now you know the answer to which saw to get.

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

3560 posts in 4355 days

#7 posted 12-24-2019 02:56 AM

I have the 3hp professional. I moved up from a Delta contractors saw 1.75hp. With these two saws a world of difference. Once you get it you probably will have it for life (or nearly) so get the one you want now if you can.

I have a rental house and if my tenants wanted to pay for the wiring I’d say “sure”.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View Fred Hargis's profile (online now)

Fred Hargis

6572 posts in 3410 days

#8 posted 12-24-2019 11:40 AM

It’s likely that if you bought the 1.75 HP model, you could upgrade it later (should you decide you need too) for less than an electrician adding a 240V circuit. This is an old number, but some years back you could ta new motor from SS for about $300, and you would probably need a new contactor,,,,another $100, plus whatever shipping is for those items. You could check both, and go from there.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View knotscott's profile


8392 posts in 4292 days

#9 posted 12-24-2019 01:17 PM

1.75hp will do just fine on most cuts with a good sharp TK blade. However, if cost isn’t the major stumbling block, 3hp is simply nicer to have. The motor won’t have to work as hard, should last longer, and blade selection becomes a lot less critical. Adding 220v should make the property more attractive for the landlord…I’d definitely ask!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile


2193 posts in 3545 days

#10 posted 12-24-2019 01:36 PM

No experience with 1.75hp. I can add that I sold a 3hp Unisaw from the 60s and kept my 1.5 hp Rigid contractor saw and never missed the 3 hp of the Unisaw. For a hobbyist, the only real advantage to 3hp comes into play when addressing feed rate, With a good sharp function specific blade, the proper technique and a moderate feed rate, there is nothing that my 1.5 hp saw has met that it cannot handle. If you were doing this professionally, 3 hp or more would be the way to go. Assuming you are a hobbyist, the lesser horsepower should be fine, even when ripping 3” hardwoods.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Woodmaster1's profile


1563 posts in 3504 days

#11 posted 12-24-2019 02:05 PM

I had a 1.75hp sawstop in my shop at the school were I taught. The saw was ok but I like my 5hp Delta Unisaw better. Unless you’re going to do major cabinetry 1.75 should do. I built my first set of kitchen cabinets with 1.5 hp craftsman contractor saw. It had a terrible fence and underpowered but the cabinets came out fine. It is all on how you use the saw sometimes patience is a virtue. Good luck on making the right decision for you.

View clin's profile


1125 posts in 1913 days

#12 posted 12-24-2019 04:43 PM

Seems simple to me. Ask the new landlord about adding 240 V circuit. If he says no, then you have to go with the 1.75 HP saw, if he says yes AND does it, get the 3 HP.

-- Clin

View tmasondarnell's profile


141 posts in 2706 days

#13 posted 12-25-2019 02:32 PM

I have the 1.75 hp Sawstop. I use a WW II full kerf blade on it.

I do all hobby woodworking (boxes, furniture, etc). It has always done everything I have asked of it. I have ripped 8/4 maple with a slightly slower feed rate with no issue.

View JackDuren's profile


1366 posts in 1876 days

#14 posted 12-25-2019 03:13 PM

1.75 will do you fine as a hobby woodworker. Not many that need more than that as hobby woodworkers…

View RCCinNC's profile


383 posts in 1244 days

#15 posted 12-25-2019 05:00 PM

What the heck…might as well throw in my two cents…

I used to have a 1.75 Hp. Delta Contractor saw years ago. When I moved up to my 3 Hp. General T350 I couldn’t believe the difference in power and related quality of cut….No bogging, less burning in dense hard woods, cleaner cuts with minimal scoring. It was initially set up in an unfinished garage, so it was simple to add a 220 amp circuit to the exposed breaker box. I have since added a Sawstop 3hp. Professional tablesaw to my shop, and like it fine… though it doesn’t have the fence length or the table surface in front of the blade as the General. Truth is, if you go with the 1.75 and have had no experience with a three horsepower saw, and do mostly hobby woodworking, you won’t miss the power. But having three horsepower future proofs you if you choose to expand your hobby by building more demanding pieces. Admittedly for me, it’s a matter of preference given my personal experience, but I cannot see going back to a lower powered saw.

For most, a cabinet saw is a lifetime purchase. If you can get access to 220, I’d highly recommend going with the 3 Hp.

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

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