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band saw won't cut straight

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Forum topic by Karda posted 12-18-2019 04:35 AM 885 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karda

2543 posts in 1440 days


12-18-2019 04:35 AM

I cut a 3×3 piece on my BS and the cut was about 1/8th in off. I checked the blade square and my saw sled both are square. Why is the cut so far off. The blade is tight.. thanks Mike


21 replies so far

View Hockey's profile

Hockey

182 posts in 1298 days


#1 posted 12-18-2019 05:09 AM

Could be a number of things. Blade guides not properly adjusted, blade tension, dull blade, blade width and feed rate are the usual culprits.

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2829 posts in 2731 days


#2 posted 12-18-2019 05:12 AM

Have you watched the Alex Snodgrass video? It helped me. Especially about centering the gullets on the crown of the top wheel, not the blade itself.

-- I always knew gun nuts where afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View TDSpade's profile

TDSpade

121 posts in 3302 days


#3 posted 12-18-2019 07:03 AM

What size blade? The thinner the blade the less accurate the cut. What type of blade, regular, hook, or skip? What tpi (teeth per inch) are you using? Is the blade old and dull? Hard or soft wood?

Cross cutting is easier than ripping. A ¼ inch blade will tend to follow the grain easier and give a less accurate cut than a ¾ inch blade when rip cutting.

Just some thoughts.

-- For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert.

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Karda

2543 posts in 1440 days


#4 posted 12-18-2019 07:09 AM

blade is .5” 3 hook tooth. Blade is used but not real hard. This has never happened before. does it in hard and soft wood. I free cut a piece of OSB. and the blade cut straight then

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

15161 posts in 2025 days


#5 posted 12-18-2019 12:51 PM

Free cuts will always be straight… well as straight as the operator can push it anyway :-) It sounds like you have a tracking issue. Maybe the blade changed position on the wheels for some reason? You don’t say how your sled is made but, if it rides in the miter slot, you probably need to adjust your table or if it rides on the fence you probably need to adjust that. Good luck with it. Bandsaws are great when they cooperate but they can be frustrating buggers too…

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Robert's profile

Robert

4059 posts in 2367 days


#6 posted 12-18-2019 02:41 PM

Dull blade? Forcing too much can also do it.

Check the guides and blade for sharpness.

I’ve tried the Snodgrass deal go ahead if you want but it doesn’t work on every bandsaw.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

2901 posts in 2294 days


#7 posted 12-18-2019 02:44 PM

All bandsaws have drift, just the nature of the beast. The fence and /or sled have to be able to compensate for it, and our must be checked after switching blades too.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3423 posts in 2684 days


#8 posted 12-18-2019 02:49 PM

To me it reads like a dull blade. It doesn’t take much to smoke a carbon steel blade OSB has nasty glue. One of the reasons to have a larger then needed bandsaw is a longer blade. Longer blades might cost you more up front but they pay off in the long run.

Good Luck

-- Aj

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Phil32

1146 posts in 790 days


#9 posted 12-18-2019 04:43 PM

Possibly the tooth set of the blade. Alternate teeth are set (bent) to the side to make the kerf – the clearance of the blade in the saw cut. This can happen with incorrectly adjusted guides or normal wear. Try a new blade.

-- Phil Allin - There are mountain climbers and people who talk about climbing mountains. The climbers have "selfies" at the summit!

View Karda's profile

Karda

2543 posts in 1440 days


#10 posted 12-18-2019 08:27 PM

ok thanks I’ll get a new blade

View JayT's profile

JayT

6413 posts in 3097 days


#11 posted 12-19-2019 03:24 AM

The only times I have drift on my band saw is dull blade &/or too fast of feed rate. The thicker the wood, the slower you need to cut to give the blade a chance to clear the sawdust. Forcing a piece through too fast will leave too much sawdust in the kerf, which pushes the blade to one side.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View Karda's profile

Karda

2543 posts in 1440 days


#12 posted 12-19-2019 03:44 AM

this piece was abou 3×3’’ hardwood and my feed was very slow, probably is dull

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

2901 posts in 2294 days


#13 posted 12-19-2019 01:09 PM

Mike you didn’t say (or I missed it) whether you’re sled rides on the fence or in the miter slot or whether it’s adjustable
You might get lucky and think there’s no drift like Jay but the bottom line is you’ve got a thin piece of metal stretched out 2ft or better between 2 wheels that do not have any adjustments besides tracking on a mass produced machine.
I’d bet a cold beer if you set the fence dead on with the miter gauge slot you will not get a drift-free cut

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Karda

2543 posts in 1440 days


#14 posted 12-19-2019 06:05 PM

the sled runs on the miter slot but the fence is squared with the blade, the last time I cut to a line it was dead on then next cut it is way off

View TDSpade's profile

TDSpade

121 posts in 3302 days


#15 posted 12-19-2019 06:49 PM



the sled runs on the miter slot but the fence is squared with the blade, the last time I cut to a line it was dead on then next cut it is way off

- Karda

Sounds like a tracking problem. How old is your bs? The tires could be worn, causing the blade to move around. Is the blade tension properly set? Don’t trust the markings when adjusting the tension. The tension spring could be weak.

I had worn tires, which would cause the blade to move off the crown, screwing up the tracking. Changing the tires fixed that. Difference was night and day. Like a new bs.

-- For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert.

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