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I'm tired of cheap drill bits that go dull with only a few uses.

5K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  ohtimberwolf 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Can someone advise me? Does HD or Lowe's or Menards have any good metal square shank bits that they sell?

I don't want to morgage my house to pay for them but I would like to have some decent bits to use; my arm gets tired trying to push a drill bit through 3/32" metal. larry
 
#3 ·
I think you are looking for drill bits with Cobalt in them. Search cobalt drill bits for manufacturers….I know Dewalt makes some. High speed steel is the most common and replaced carbon steel bits. I see those titanium coated bits and they may work fine for a while but if you sharpen them the titanium gets ground off. There are some with pilot tips that may help but again if you sharpen them the tip gets ground off.

I use a bit sharpener to keep mine sharp. Drill Doctor is a popular one but there are bit holders you can use to sharpen the bits on your bench grinder that are less expensive. I have both and favor the Drill Dr. I have lots of bits so about once a year I just lay they all out and sharpen the ones that need it. Learn about the proper angle for various bits. Trying to cut through steel with the wrong cutting angle can slow things down. Here is an article on angles….https://www.regalcuttingtools.com/learning-center/articles/which-drill-point-angle-should-i-be-using

If I'm drilling holes larger than say 3/8" in metal I usually pre-drill the hole with a smaller bit because the points on large bits are not very good at getting the hole going.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is a decent set I picked up for drilling metals. The bits have a starter point which helps the bit bite the surface of the metal. Not too expensive for the number of bits and each size can be purchased separately should you need to replace.

Edit: I want to add, stepper bits are a good option for metals as they are stout and allow for increasing the hole size without the need to change the bit. They obviously have limitations as to the thickness of the material that can be drilled.

Wood Tool Font Office supplies Cone
 

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#5 ·
Have to agree big box store bits are horrible. i finally started going ot a bolt and nut joint here in town, and the bits are a 100 % better, but the boys just don't seem to understand letting the bit cut, instead of standing on drill and frying the bit, they just don't get it.

oh well. happy holidays
Rj in az
 
#6 ·
I've got some cobalt bits. They do work well, especially if you've got to drill harder stuff like steel, stainless, etc. The only drawback is they are very brittle. Small diameter ones break easily.

Softer, high speed steel ones will dull. Cobalt ones will often chip.

My solution is use high speed steel ones and sharpen. I got a drill sharpener after collecting a box of dull bits. Now I just touch it up between uses.

Titanium coated ones are pretty but aren't anything special. Maybe a sales ploy?
 
#7 ·
Most of that is just cheap bits. If it came from a Borg, in a plastic pack, or especially HF, you are getting some ChiTaiwanese junk. Poor metal, combined with cheap grinds, and you will not have a very long lasting bit, nor one you can resharpen worth a skunk.

For made in the USA I like Montana brand

For import, and what I use most are Fisch

Goes back to that ya get what ya pay for.
 
#8 ·
I ordered a couple sets of US made Drillco bits to replace the china sets I've been using and they are like night and day. The US bits come sharper and stay sharp longer. I've also bought US made Viking bits, haven't used them as much but my initial impression is they are also very high quality.

You might find this interesting too.
 
#9 ·
I was in the metal working trade for 40+ years. We almost always used Guhring or Chicago Latrobe brand 135 degree split point drills.
As for coatings, the yellow ( gold) coating is titanium nitrite. It doesn't make the drill any "harder", but what it does do is make the drill body more " slippery" , it provides lubricity, especially in the flutes, so the chips flow up the drill and out of the hole easier, causing less friction. Less friction means less heat, which is what dulls the drill point.
 
#17 ·
You can spend 50¢ or $10.00 for a drill bit. Industry uses high quality bits and pays a lot of money for them. Drill bits are considered "expendable", but they can be resharpened when dull. Resharpening should be done as soon as the bit starts to "labor" indicating it is not cutting well. Continuing to drill with a dull bit, will further make the bit more dull. The result will be a bit no longer usable and possibly breaking. A lubricant should be used when drilling. That keeps the bit from overheating, therefore extending the sharpness. For good drill bits, visit any industrial tool supply house like MSC, Travers, McMaster-Carr, etc. This of course applies to drilling metals only. Drilling wood doesn't require the same bit quality that drilling metals requires, but a good HSS bit will last much longer than a cheap carbon steel bit.
 
#18 ·
I was in the metal working trade for 40+ years. We almost always used Guhring or Chicago Latrobe brand 135 degree split point drills.
As for coatings, the yellow ( gold) coating is titanium nitrite. It doesn t make the drill any "harder", but what it does do is make the drill body more " slippery" , it provides lubricity, especially in the flutes, so the chips flow up the drill and out of the hole easier, causing less friction. Less friction means less heat, which is what dulls the drill point.

- jbmaine
Totally agree with Chicago Latrobe and Guhring. There's also a US maker called Norseman that makes good bits. TiN coating is fine for general use but not necessary for home-shop work IMO. I generally buy 118 degree bits with a black oxide coating. Why? Because that's what my indexes are full of and I like 'em to match ;-) I'd also recommend getting screw machine drills if you don't need the longer flute length of the Jobber drills. The shorter flutes on the SM drills make them stronger. Regardless of what bits you buy, I would recommend learning to sharpen them. I ain't met a drill bit yet that doesn't dull ;-)
 
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