Locking miter bit - fifth panel application?

Huh?

What you’ve drawn is a typical use of a locking miter bit to make a post or faux column. That part works great, just be sure to pay attention to board orientation as you mill the joint. I like to plan it out in advance so I only have to clamp the assembly in one direction.

However, I don’t understand about the “Front Panel.” Where is that in your drawing?
I really need more info and a couple detailed drawings of what you intend to do after the initial mantle box is built.

I’ve done mantle columns with a locking miter bit, but they were three-sided because the back doesn’t show.
Why not just mount a solid timber and cover it with a three-sided trim cover?

Here’s a project post to seed the brainstorm. But again, in my application it was the vertical columns and column that were three-sided locking miters. I nailed 2x lumber to the wall as a cleat, then slipped the three-sided cover in place. It can be attached with construction adhesive and a few brad nails.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/146826

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

im a little confused too at first i thought you were showing an end view,but apparently not?

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

Above, plus what you are showing could be a quadralinear leg, AKA Stickley leg where all 4 sides are sporting quarter sawn faces. So you can make a post that is a lot more showy than Ma Nature ever planned them to be.

Looking at you plan, and reading your description I believe you have it right. Just do a mock up with some Borg pine, or scraps to dial in you depth/height, and go.

FWIW I think you should just bring a piece of plywood or something that is 36” wide, and hold it in front of the fireplace. That is a REALLLLLY wide mantel, even 24” is huge. For a 6” lift, you would look more graceful at 18 to 20” max, and I would come in at 15” width. Just an unsolicited tip. Of course you could mock one up of plywood, and see what ya think. Also good practice, before the real wood.

-- Think safe, be safe

im a little confused too at first i thought you were showing an end view,but apparently not?

- pottz

Oooops, got me too.

-- Think safe, be safe

Hahaha, sorry about that. Here is another drawing from the side.

I’m basically asking can I use the locking router bit to chamfer the front panel. Then, then flip the orientation and run the carcass (disassembled) through my router. Would the front panel lock into the carcass?

im a little confused too at first i thought you were showing an end view,but apparently not?

- pottz

Oooops, got me too.

If this is the case, then I think a Lock Miter is going to be a Biotch to place on that front piece. That joint works swell to lock corners together, trying to add a different direction is going to become problematic I believe. However I have not tried it, so what I was saying about a mock up, now more than ever.

- therealSteveN

-- Think safe, be safe

Your corners aren’t going to work. (at least I don’t think they will)
Just do like your doing on the box, but miter the top edge and the edges of the front.

Technically, I think it would work. But I think the fit would be dicy. If you try it, it would be imperative for the stock to be exactly the same thickness and to cut all the lock miters at the same time, with the same router table/bit setting. If it were me, I’d build the box first, then rabbet all four edges of the front to fit precisely in the box with a small lip to cover the edges of the box.

Might be a whole lot easier to build plywood ‘box’ with whatever joints you are most comfortable with and then veneer it.

Another option… use a 6” x 6” x 36” beam and rout a cleat into the back of it

-- Rick - I know I am not perfect, but I will keep pressing on toward the goal of becoming all I am called to be.

I get what you’re trying to do and yes it can be done. That’s what I was originally going to do when I built my bed. I used the lock miter to make the 4”x4” corner posts and I ended up putting finials on the top so I just filled the void in the center of the posts and attached the finials to that. I had cut a 4”x4” piece of 3/4” oak for the tops of the posts. Then I cut the lock miter on all four edges to match an opposite miter on some scraps from the posts to see if it would work and it popped right in.

Rock

I get what you re trying to do and yes it can be done. That s what I was originally going to do when I built my bed. I used the lock miter to make the 4”x4” corner posts and I ended up putting finials on the top so I just filled the void in the center of the posts and attached the finials to that. I had cut a 4”x4” piece of 3/4” oak for the tops of the posts. Then I cut the lock miter on all four edges to match an opposite miter on some scraps from the posts to see if it would work and it popped right in.

Rock

- rockusaf

Yessir!!! Looks like I’d have to plan ahead to make my front panel lay in, rather than trying to wedge the box around the panel.

Thank you for the feedback and consideration (to all of you).

Your time is greatly appreciated!

I’m pretty sure this will work.
It is not altogether unlike the miter-folded boxes that I do.
www.lumberjocks.com/topics/304756

Seems like an experiment is in order, though.
The orientation of the lock might make a difference to how easy it will assemble.

Sounds like fun to me.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

Yes you can make a sealed six-sided box with no visible seams with a lock miter bit. You do the top & bottom just like the sides (the edges will be angled, not flat when the lid is removed). Done right you’ll have a box that is not obvious or easy to open.

M

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

Seems like an experiment is in order, though.
The orientation of the lock might make a difference to how easy it will assemble.

- DS

Pretty slick work with that link.

I recently picked up “the works” Incra Router table combo after saving for a while, and making promises to my wife, hahaha. I’m hoping I can get it all dialed in perfectly. I’m going to pick up the bit today. Fingers (and toes) crossed.

Have you tried this yet?
Let us know, I’m curious how it worked.