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Locking miter bit - fifth panel application?

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Forum topic by knottyknip posted 12-10-2019 07:49 PM 598 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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knottyknip

30 posts in 562 days


12-10-2019 07:49 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router locking miter bit box panel question xo

Thank you in advance for any insight and consideration!

My wife wants a floating mantel, one that appears to be a solid beam.

I’m leaning towards using the locking miter bit to create the carcass, and recessing a French Cleat in the back.

My question – after I create the carcass (waterfall wood grain), can I then run the “front panel” through my router (all 4 sides same orientation ex. face down on router table), as well as the carcass (opposite orientation ex. upright against my router fence) to create a front panel that snaps into the carcass?

End goal is to minimize Nails/pins, reduce wood filler, and create a sturdy seamless shelf.

Crude drawing attached.


18 replies so far

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6035 posts in 3420 days


#1 posted 12-10-2019 08:18 PM

Huh?

What you’ve drawn is a typical use of a locking miter bit to make a post or faux column. That part works great, just be sure to pay attention to board orientation as you mill the joint. I like to plan it out in advance so I only have to clamp the assembly in one direction.

However, I don’t understand about the “Front Panel.” Where is that in your drawing?
I really need more info and a couple detailed drawings of what you intend to do after the initial mantle box is built.

I’ve done mantle columns with a locking miter bit, but they were three-sided because the back doesn’t show.
Why not just mount a solid timber and cover it with a three-sided trim cover?

Here’s a project post to seed the brainstorm. But again, in my application it was the vertical columns and column that were three-sided locking miters. I nailed 2x lumber to the wall as a cleat, then slipped the three-sided cover in place. It can be attached with construction adhesive and a few brad nails.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/146826

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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pottz

7696 posts in 1591 days


#2 posted 12-10-2019 08:32 PM

im a little confused too at first i thought you were showing an end view,but apparently not?

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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therealSteveN

4646 posts in 1181 days


#3 posted 12-10-2019 08:43 PM

Above, plus what you are showing could be a quadralinear leg, AKA Stickley leg where all 4 sides are sporting quarter sawn faces. So you can make a post that is a lot more showy than Ma Nature ever planned them to be.

Looking at you plan, and reading your description I believe you have it right. Just do a mock up with some Borg pine, or scraps to dial in you depth/height, and go.

FWIW I think you should just bring a piece of plywood or something that is 36” wide, and hold it in front of the fireplace. That is a REALLLLLY wide mantel, even 24” is huge. For a 6” lift, you would look more graceful at 18 to 20” max, and I would come in at 15” width. Just an unsolicited tip. Of course you could mock one up of plywood, and see what ya think. Also good practice, before the real wood.

-- Think safe, be safe

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therealSteveN

4646 posts in 1181 days


#4 posted 12-10-2019 08:44 PM



im a little confused too at first i thought you were showing an end view,but apparently not?

- pottz

Oooops, got me too.

-- Think safe, be safe

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knottyknip

30 posts in 562 days


#5 posted 12-10-2019 08:46 PM

Hahaha, sorry about that. Here is another drawing from the side.

I’m basically asking can I use the locking router bit to chamfer the front panel. Then, then flip the orientation and run the carcass (disassembled) through my router. Would the front panel lock into the carcass?

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therealSteveN

4646 posts in 1181 days


#6 posted 12-10-2019 08:47 PM

im a little confused too at first i thought you were showing an end view,but apparently not?

- pottz

Oooops, got me too.

If this is the case, then I think a Lock Miter is going to be a Biotch to place on that front piece. That joint works swell to lock corners together, trying to add a different direction is going to become problematic I believe. However I have not tried it, so what I was saying about a mock up, now more than ever.

- therealSteveN

-- Think safe, be safe

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

498 posts in 334 days


#7 posted 12-10-2019 08:52 PM

Your corners aren’t going to work. (at least I don’t think they will)
Just do like your doing on the box, but miter the top edge and the edges of the front.

View MPython's profile

MPython

212 posts in 419 days


#8 posted 12-10-2019 09:05 PM

Technically, I think it would work. But I think the fit would be dicy. If you try it, it would be imperative for the stock to be exactly the same thickness and to cut all the lock miters at the same time, with the same router table/bit setting. If it were me, I’d build the box first, then rabbet all four edges of the front to fit precisely in the box with a small lip to cover the edges of the box.

View cracknpop's profile

cracknpop

384 posts in 2955 days


#9 posted 12-11-2019 12:59 AM

Might be a whole lot easier to build plywood ‘box’ with whatever joints you are most comfortable with and then veneer it.

Another option… use a 6” x 6” x 36” beam and rout a cleat into the back of it

-- Rick - I know I am not perfect, but I will keep pressing on toward the goal of becoming all I am called to be.

View rockusaf's profile

rockusaf

107 posts in 709 days


#10 posted 12-11-2019 01:21 AM

I get what you’re trying to do and yes it can be done. That’s what I was originally going to do when I built my bed. I used the lock miter to make the 4”x4” corner posts and I ended up putting finials on the top so I just filled the void in the center of the posts and attached the finials to that. I had cut a 4”x4” piece of 3/4” oak for the tops of the posts. Then I cut the lock miter on all four edges to match an opposite miter on some scraps from the posts to see if it would work and it popped right in.

Rock

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knottyknip

30 posts in 562 days


#11 posted 12-11-2019 01:24 AM



I get what you re trying to do and yes it can be done. That s what I was originally going to do when I built my bed. I used the lock miter to make the 4”x4” corner posts and I ended up putting finials on the top so I just filled the void in the center of the posts and attached the finials to that. I had cut a 4”x4” piece of 3/4” oak for the tops of the posts. Then I cut the lock miter on all four edges to match an opposite miter on some scraps from the posts to see if it would work and it popped right in.

Rock

- rockusaf

Yessir!!! Looks like I’d have to plan ahead to make my front panel lay in, rather than trying to wedge the box around the panel.

Thank you for the feedback and consideration (to all of you).

Your time is greatly appreciated!

View DS's profile

DS

3360 posts in 3027 days


#12 posted 12-11-2019 02:02 PM

I’m pretty sure this will work.
It is not altogether unlike the miter-folded boxes that I do.
www.lumberjocks.com/topics/304756

Seems like an experiment is in order, though.
The orientation of the lock might make a difference to how easy it will assemble.

Sounds like fun to me.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

716 posts in 1195 days


#13 posted 12-11-2019 02:17 PM

Yes you can make a sealed six-sided box with no visible seams with a lock miter bit. You do the top & bottom just like the sides (the edges will be angled, not flat when the lid is removed). Done right you’ll have a box that is not obvious or easy to open.

M

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

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knottyknip

30 posts in 562 days


#14 posted 12-11-2019 02:30 PM


Seems like an experiment is in order, though.
The orientation of the lock might make a difference to how easy it will assemble.

- DS

Pretty slick work with that link.

I recently picked up “the works” Incra Router table combo after saving for a while, and making promises to my wife, hahaha. I’m hoping I can get it all dialed in perfectly. I’m going to pick up the bit today. Fingers (and toes) crossed.

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

498 posts in 334 days


#15 posted 12-18-2019 09:56 PM

Have you tried this yet?
Let us know, I’m curious how it worked.

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