LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Adjustable height (for the top) workbench and support for tools and outfeed table

6K views 38 replies 11 participants last post by  MiniMe 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi guys

I am looking for design options for a table that will serve as permanent stand for a miter saw (in the middle) , drill press and a 9" band saw (if I ever get to buy one)
I want the table to be on casters (4") and to be able to use it as outfeed table for my table saw (Ridgid 3650)
When I need to use it so I will move the tools on the bottom side of the table and then I will adjust the level of the top to be level with the top of the table saw.
This will be made using 2×4s and some2×8s for the sliding pieces in the second design

I came up with two designs:



and this one


What problems do you foresee with each one of them and which one do you favour?
Are there any other options?
 
See less See more
3
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
I made something similar but with a different elevation changing set up. Attached are a couple of Sketchup renditions and a cut away line drawing. It works well and I have used it for 10 years but is a little cumbersome to change the height, requiring me to work around the bench changing the elevation in small increments. If I had a second person it would be easier. I have always thought I should add a scissors jack or some sort of hydraulics. Also while I left the lower part open you could add doors or drawers. I did put shelves in the end between the supports.
I used bolts and threaded star knobs to secure the adjustment stops on the 4 corners.. Also on the elevating supports I marked them with rulers to reverence each corners adjustment and get things level.
Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Cabinetry


Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Looks like a lot of adjustments. I don t know how much travel you need but you could allow the top to move up on posts and have a milled block to act as a spacer to get to table saw height.

- controlfreak
I considered that as well but the issue is that I have an uneven floor and the table saw and the workbench might not necessarily land in the same position every time -hence the need to adjust every time. I can use what you said as a quick setup and see if it works, the designs do not exclude that option
 
#5 ·
I made something similar but with a different elevation changing set up. Attached are a couple of Sketchup renditions and a cut away line drawing. It works well and I have used it for 10 years but is a little cumbersome to change the height, requiring me to work around the bench changing the elevation in small increments. If I had a second person it would be easier. I have always thought I should add a scissors jack or some sort of hydraulics. Also while I left the lower part open you could add doors or drawers. I did put shelves in the end between the supports.

- LesB
Nice design but I want to keep it simple and my router is not in place yet
I think that the all thread rod design is safer but the other design could be used as a bench wise if you take the table top out :)
 
#9 ·
You might want to look at the plans for a Jack-bench, https://www.jack-bench.com/ he has been around for a while. I am still thinking I might build one, just have not gotten around to it yet. Dan

- RDan
That is definitely a nice idea but it will take from the under the table space.
If I find two cheap auto jacks I could attach them at each side, on the exterior ! Good point, thank you
 
#10 ·
So, this discussion spurred me into looking at some sort of jack system and I found scissor jacks from the basic automotive types for around $25 (some had mounting flanges on the top) to motorcycle jacks with larger platforms in the $60+ range. You might even find old car scissor jacks at the wrecking yard even cheaper.

I think I will add one of these to the bench design I posted above. That way I can release the 4 corner clamps adjust the height with the jack and re-clamp it. If the floor was uneven minor adjustments could be made by hand to level the top.
 
#12 ·
So, this discussion spurred me into looking at some sort of jack system and I found scissor jacks from the basic automotive types for around $25 (some had mounting flanges on the top) to motorcycle jacks with larger platforms in the $60+ range. You might even find old car scissor jacks at the wrecking yard even cheaper.

I think I will add one of these to the bench design I posted above. That way I can release the 4 corner clamps adjust the height with the jack and re-clamp it. If the floor was uneven minor adjustments could be made by hand to level the top.

- LesB
I recycled a car not very long ago. I do not remember what I did with the jack :-( (I have had a very stressful couple of months this year)
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
The HD seems model seems to be a nice option
I need to crunch the numbers to see if I want to buid it myself or buy that one. I am afraid that the size that I need is going to cost more than if I build it from 2×4

BTW, would you advise straightening the 2×4s using the table saw?
 
#16 ·
If you don't need all the different height ranges in between, but just two different heights, I would think about a second top with some spacer blocks in between. That way, you could have the lower needed height with the two tops laying on each other and the second height buy putting the blocks in between.
Easy to build, cheap and easy to adjust.
 
#17 ·
If you don t need all the different height ranges in between, but just two different heights, I would think about a second top with some spacer blocks in between. That way, you could have the lower needed height with the two tops laying on each other and the second height buy putting the blocks in between.
Easy to build, cheap and easy to adjust.

- muesli
I considered some sort of spaces but the floor is uneven and that will result in variable level difference between the the table saw and the workbench top which will be its outfeed table on ocassions
 
#18 ·
I think I will implement this
I already have one of the jacks and it is going to cost me 25CAD for another identical one.
These are small jacks I might need to improvise to build the vertical boards that push the top upward


So far I have spent around 50CAD on rods floor flanges and hardware to implement this which seems to be a simple solution but I have doubts regarding its stability. The holes made for those rods will wear out in time and the table will start moving. The flange thread does not match the thread in the rod and it locks in just because for that specific size (5/8" flange) the rog goes in just enough to lock itself in there. Due to the fact that the thread is coarse the top side of the flange does not sit in perfect horizontal position and it will need some shims to attach properly to the table or use a chisel to create some sort of foot print that will level the things …all in all -too much improvisation
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm coming at this from a slightly different direction. I built this bench out of scrap 2x material. I built it to hand plane wood. Its solid as a rock. I can lean all my weight on it in any direction, and it won't budge even a hair. But I set it low, primarily for planing wood. I moved to a new shop, and I use this bench as an outfeed table.

Turns out I need three heights:
  • Low (for hand planing wood)
  • 1/8" below the table saw height for to catch the saw's outfeed.
  • EXACTLY the same height as table saw, for working really long material.

Wood Floor Flooring Automotive tire Hardwood


I built two of these spacer / leg extensions, one for each end of my bench. They are precise in their height. The spacers and cross boards are glued as a single unit. Its way way easy to lift the end of bench (less the c clamps or course), and adjust the spacer block using my toe in the middle to make location adjustment. I use 1/8" hardboard scrap to adjust the last 1/8" if necessary.

You don't realize how useful it is to have a rock solid bench until you have tried one. I'd be afraid that the benches above, while great for layout, machine router work, etc. would not be so great if you ever tried to hand plane a board.

Price for this "spacer / jack" = $0, just check your scrap pile…

One other note… If I have to do very precision stuff, where I need to be close to the work (something you might need a tall bench for…) I end up sitting on a stool, with the work on the bench. I've found when I need to do precision work, its much easier to obtain quality results when I'm sitting down… So yeah, my bench adjusts to one of three specific heights.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Good idea but the price of your table is higher :) and the table is heavier…that is the price you pay for rock solid
- MiniMe
Nope. This table is made from recycled 2x material. Totally free. Add some fasteners and glue and time. The top is hand planed very flat. OOps. You can see here I got lazy on removing the 1/8" spacers for outfeed. Cardboard to the rescue. But you can see where in planing a 10' board I need accurate height to the table saw. Did I mention that I'm really cheap? Recycle when you can.

Table Wood Engineering Hardwood Machine
 

Attachments

#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
Being disabled I sometimes grab at things for stability so all of my tools are firmly bolted to their stands. I did this after nearly pulling the drill press over. A tall tool like a drill press can be unstable when rolling around and not bolted down.

It's not really a good idea to have all tools on the same bench as each other since the tools are different heights. Better to have each tools stand at a height so that the combined tool and stand height is the same. In my shop the work surfaces of each tool (belt sander, planer, lathe, bandsaw, scrollsaw, drill press, mitersaw) match the tablesaw, 34". Moving work from tool to tool is easy as there is no lifting.

Instead of putting 4 casters on the stands (this can make the tool station squirmy) just put two fixed casters on one end and leave the other end stationary with handles you can use to wheelbarrow the tool around. This makes the tool station very stable in use yet easily movable.

Also, check to see if your drill press will fit under the bench in the fully down position, mine is too tall for an under 30" space. At 62 humping the drill press up and down is no fun. YMMV

M
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
Being disabled I sometimes grab at things for stability so all of my tools are firmly bolted to their stands. I did this after nearly pulling the drill press over. A tall tool like a drill press can be unstable when rolling around and not bolted down.

It s not really a good idea to have all tools on the same bench as each other since the tools are different heights. Better to have each tools stand at a height so that the combined tool and stand height is the same. In my shop the work surfaces of each tool (belt sander, planer, lathe, bandsaw, scrollsaw, drill press, mitersaw) match the tablesaw, 34". Moving work from tool to tool is easy as there is no lifting.

Instead of putting 4 casters on the stands (this can make the tool station squirmy) just put two fixed casters on one end and leave the other end stationary with handles you can use to wheelbarrow the tool around. This makes the tool station very stable in use yet easily movable.

Also, check to see if your drill press will fit under the bench in the fully down position, mine is too tall for an under 30" space. At 62 humping the drill press up and down is no fun. YMMV

M

- Madmark2
all very good suggestions. With a vacation coming next week I will barely have the time to put together some of the DC system components. When I get back I will still have a couple of days off and I will probably get started on this project
I will probably post some pictures then. I still have to buy a band saw so on that table I will have a miter saw a drill press and the band saw …either on the table or under the table. You are right these must be secured (at least the band saw and the drill press, they can tip over at any time) I will have to find a solution for that (to keep then stable and removable at any time, on and under the table)

What can I use for that ? Clamps? Add tracks to the top and use bench clamps?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top