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molasses vs evaporust vs acid vs vinegar

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Forum topic by Holbs posted 12-04-2019 04:49 AM 467 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Holbs

2262 posts in 2640 days


12-04-2019 04:49 AM

pretty neat comparison between these items upon steel, paint, aluminum
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dzlE9-9DVE
(can no longer embed youtube vids into forum posts….sadness)

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"


12 replies so far

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Woodknack

13026 posts in 2991 days


#1 posted 12-04-2019 09:16 AM

An acid is an acid is an acid … the stronger the acid the faster it removes rust, so it isn’t a matter of best but fastest. You can use Coke, citric acid, molasses, vinegar, Works toilet bowl cleaner, driveway cleaner, muriatic acid, they all work just at different speeds.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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corelz125

995 posts in 1587 days


#2 posted 12-04-2019 04:21 PM

I’ll stick with the evaporust out of all of them. Works well and I don’t need gloves to work with it.

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SMP

1623 posts in 516 days


#3 posted 12-04-2019 04:29 PM



I ll stick with the evaporust out of all of them. Works well and I don t need gloves to work with it.

- corelz125

I don’t think you need gloves for molasses or vinegar either, seeing that you can eat them, lol.

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therealSteveN

4670 posts in 1185 days


#4 posted 12-04-2019 04:55 PM

YouTube post

Not sure why you thought they couldn’t be added into text?

Neat video BTW.

Kerosene and Diesel fuel didn’t make the list. Another longer term soak, but I know 3 Antique dealers that just drop all of their rusty finds in a bucket, and leave them for a few weeks. None of that weird gray color you get with evaporust. Old Black hand tools just come out like they have been super cleaned. Doesn’t appear to affect wood attached to a tool. Just let it dry, and it’s back to it’s initial pre soak condition, just any grunge on the wood will be neatly cleaned off.

I think people fear it like it’s a bucket of gasoline. Diesel has almost no ignition properties until it’s forced into a cylinder, and ignited. Open air it’s not flammable. My tool and die friend keeps a bucket in the shop for cleaning. Cigarette buts floating all over it from where they try to scare the visitors. :-X

Even the results he is getting are varied as to the type of metals, and product used. If anything this could be valuable to see what to use on what.

-- Think safe, be safe

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corelz125

995 posts in 1587 days


#5 posted 12-04-2019 05:43 PM

SMP I would be a sticky mess using the molasses. The ones that I can eat take to long for me.

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MrUnix

7601 posts in 2810 days


#6 posted 12-04-2019 06:48 PM

He mentioned it, but didn’t show electrolysis – which is probably the fastest and cheapest method IMO. Plus, if you use a non-metalic anode, such as carbon rod, 99% of the mess is eliminated.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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corelz125

995 posts in 1587 days


#7 posted 12-04-2019 07:04 PM

The cheapest and fastest is a wire wheel on a grinder but that will definitely take the paint off.

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Holbs

2262 posts in 2640 days


#8 posted 12-04-2019 07:05 PM

I just wanted to throw out different options. I personally stick with Evaporust for small items like bolts, springs, etc and electroylsis for larger items like saw plates, planer rollers, etc.
Had no idea molasses was an option. Cheapest option at that, though the longest affect time.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

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MrUnix

7601 posts in 2810 days


#9 posted 12-04-2019 07:06 PM

The cheapest and fastest is a wire wheel on a grinder but that will definitely take the paint off.
- corelz125

It is very hard to get into tight spaces and blind spots with a wire wheel :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Woodknack

13026 posts in 2991 days


#10 posted 12-04-2019 07:39 PM

I used evaporust on an antique pocket knife that had some minor collector value and it dissolved part of the blade leaving an ugly gash. I’m guessing the manufacturer used a filler to conceal a defect. It doesn’t hurt the function of the knife but it destroyed the small amount of value it had.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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xeddog

271 posts in 3618 days


#11 posted 12-05-2019 04:53 PM

Does anyone use Naval Jelly any more?

Wayne

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HokieKen

12024 posts in 1749 days


#12 posted 12-05-2019 09:48 PM



Does anyone use Naval Jelly any more?

Wayne

- xeddog

I don’t use the jelly but my go-to de-ruster is phosphoric acid which is what naval jelly is with some kind of gelatinous carrier.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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