Hi
I can't be the only one who gets annoyed when measuring distance from blade to fence only to have it kick over (toward the blade in my case) Even more annoying is that the ruler on the rail is accurate. Set it to an inch, the fence kicks and its an inch from the blade. the thing is I still don't trust the rail ruler 100% plus I'm making the voluntary move to the metric system which is far simpler for the fractionally challenged. should I
a) forget about it be grateful its accurate in the end
b) tolerate the wiggle, change the tape and re-set up
c) do some kind of adjustment on the fence itself so it stays straight
Are you talking that when you push down on the lock lever, the fence will move a 1/16" or less as you push down on the lever. Mine does that and yes it is annoying. I'd love to know is there is something to be adjusted to halt that. My fence is a Steel City Biesemeyer style.
Starrett has a rail tape that has both metric and standard. I have it and like it but I have to be careful to remember which one I am currently using.
Oh, sorry JB
The fence is a jet Exacta on their cabinet saw
Thanks for the tip on the Starrett tape PaulDoug I think metric for dimensions and Imperial for holes is a good way to go; minimum tool replacement and oh so easy on dimensions. That's what I get for watching too much Matthias and John Heisz
I think most of them will do that unless you clamp it slightly while setting the width (I use my fence scale). I simply put the cursor on the mark, clamp it slightly, adjust if necessary, then clamp it tightly.
I got a Biesemeyer fence in 1989 and retired it about five years ago when I bought a new table saw. I used the tape on the rail and was able to get excellent accuracy and repeatability with proper technique and adjustments.
The technique I used to adjust the fence is to pull back on the locking handle and give it a bit of a shake from side to side as I moved it. Pulling back keeps the alignment pads in contact with the rail and the shake helps overcome static friction to make fine movements easier. Of course it also helps to keep the rail and pads waxed.
The first adjustment trick is to be sure that the setscrews behind the alignment pads are making contact without the fence being clamped. If there's space the alignment will change when you clamp it.
The second adjustment I made was to shim the cursor plate to move it closer to the tape. This reduced parallax error and made the setting much easier to read.
I could repeat a setting to within a few thousandths and absolute accuracy was limited by the accuracy of the tape. Speaking of which, be sure you check the stick on tape before you stick it down. Some of them have large cyclical errors, so you need to check linearity.
My Incra fence, I set to the dimension and then clamp it. Done. I'm still anal enough that I check the dimension again, anyway (with a steel Starrett scale, to boot). Got to get out of that habit- it must cost me 10 seconds per setup.
+1 for Incra. Once it's set to the blade it'a ALWAYS spot on. No guessing, wiggling, closing one eye & trying to hold your head in the same position, etc.
I had a Delta/rockwell contractors saw for years and it was a cut and sneak into the correct length with multiple cuts endeavor. Frustrating but you get used to it.
I've been using a new sawstop professional for a couple of years now. I didn't know a fence could be reliable before that. So refreshing. 1 1/8" on the rail is the same on the wood when cut. An accurate fence is such a nice thing. I hope you get satisfaction. I've been there.
My usual answer to any TS fence issues is to buy a Vega, and move along with a smile on your face.
That costs $$$$$ though. Does your indicator have a screw on, in, or next to it? That is so you can set the tape exactly the correct distance from the blade. It's a given if you change saw blades you may have to re-calibrate it. The indicators are only good if you use a Combo blade, and never swap out blades.
Because I do swap blades for Rip, Crosscut, Plywood, etc etc etc. they have minimal, but still different widths. So I use known sizes on wood cut offs, and machined blocks to measure my cuts exactly from the fence to the blade because I can't trust my tape is dead nutz, and to re-calibrate it every time I swap blades sux. Or you could just use a tape measure. I don't ascribe to that because you can easily get transposition errors.
I have a lowly Craftsman 24/12, the one that comes with my table saw, and it's absolutely nuts-on as long as I push the fence forward to keep it in place before locking it. Same idea as above, only my fence works differently.
I have a lowly Craftsman 24/12, the one that comes with my table saw, and it s absolutely nuts-on as long as I push the fence forward to keep it in place before locking it. Same idea as above, only my fence works differently.
If looking at accuracy on measurement, I use a steel ruler and not a tape measure. and will gladly remeasure after holding down and locking the fence. The measuring tape on my rail is dead on, but if I stand to the right or left of the indicator line and look at the line, I'll be 1/32" or 1/16" off. So I only use the measuring tape on the rail if I'm not worried about exact cuts.
Before I had a good fence, I designed and built this and it gave me dead on settings faster AND more accurately than other methods and especially a tape.
This rides in the track, so ones it's set for the measurement you want, it's just a matter of pressing the fence against it, locking it, then sliding to the other end to check and adjust it as needed.
Another version of it and how to build it can be seen in my Instructables post:
really quite brilliant Kelly. thanks. Haven't done much metal work but have everything I need to try. Accuracy, speed and minimal number of doo dads. Just my style. Thanks
I don't have squat for metal working equipment. The 3/8" thick bars can be cut on a table saw. I cut a hair oversize to allow me to sand off the cut marks. After sanding, mine fits tightly in a 3/4" slide groove.
The plate holding the 18" ruler from slopping around were cut on my jig saw.
Holes and threads were done on a cheap drill press. A couple tapped holes later and I was off and running. The locking knob was store bought, for purtyness.
The ones with the round rods and that accepted an L square were all done in my wood shop too.
SIDE NOTE: The one with the ruler is about forty years old. Oddly (to me), no one seems interested in it.
My buddy came over and used my contractor's saw with a crap fence. He wouldn't give up his tape. Finally, I reminded him it was my shop and my rules (I used my knack of being sincere without really meaning it to pull that one off). He tried it a few times and was sold at how quick and accurate it made set ups with a cheap fence.
Helped a friend out in the cabinet shop he'd been working in then running for twenty years. One day he was complaining about the quality of sharpening he'd gotten on a good blade. I asked him how long it had been since he'd checked the table and fence to the blade. He said it had been a couple weeks, after the new blade came and was cutting bad. Then I asked him what he used to check. Of course, it was a tape.
I went home, grabbed this tool and checked his table to his blade. My gauge showed nearly 1/8" off. Same with the fence. We loosened and reset the top, then the fence. The blade went through 8/4 oak like butter.
He never trusted a tape to set up a fence again. He'd use a square or anything he could running in the miter track instead.
totally agree. I have two 113 type saws, one is a c-man 113 with a delta t2 and the other is a "souped up" rigid 2412 with the OEM fence. Both perform with exactly the same reliability and accuracy as I spent the time calibrating both as instructed in each fence's respective owner's manual.
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