We've built several kitchen counter tops using Ambrosia Maple. Only one client wanted to make it look a little older. The client started using mineral oil heated a little in a microwave and then applying it to her top. We built her cabinets with Cherry. The two woods actually made a good marriage and she loves the end results.
She then used the mineral oil beeswax mixture. The image is what the top looked liked after several coats of mineral oil over a period of a few weeks. The tops have been in for several years now and acquired a beautiful patina.
I wipe on 3 or so coats of Zinsser no wax shellac sealer, follow with 2- 3 coats of Arm R Seal on ambrosia maple for my boxes. Nice that you have scraps to "test" for the look you want.
Most any oil finish will give the white maple a warm tone. Beyond that, dyes will get you any color you want without the issues of common stains. Amber shellacs can also get you darker but to a lesser extent than dyes.
Usually the issues with maple are keeping it light colored, almost anything else will darken.
wncguy, Thanks. I was thinking of thinning some Zinnser, rubbed on and then lightly sanding with the thought that the more obsorbant areas that typically "blotch" will then soak up less of the following coats. Then follow with mineral oil maybe tinted with some umber oil paint. I'll experiment. And the a urethane finish?
Dan - I checked the can for more info/detail on the shellac…
It's noted as Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat.
Universal Sanding Sealer & 100% wax free.
It's a 2 lb cut.
I my opinion it does not need/require thinning & I use as is.
Wipe it on (not rub). First couple of coats soak up quickly, dries fast and you can start to see where it absorbs more. I usually sand (240 grit) after 2 to 3 coats to get smooth & may or may not add more coat(s).
All this done in a matter of a few hours.
Then I wipe on the the Arm R Seal (believe it's noted as a oil/urethane). This will require a longer dry/cure time.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the comment on my boxes.
Brodan,
I have had a decent amount of experience with ambrosia and spalted maple. Both are a challenge to finish, spalted a bit more than ambrosia. You are right that the variability in density is the main issue, it affects the absorption of finish, dyes and stain. I would avoid using any urethane as softer areas will not age well as the finish can crack and chip. A quality Spar varnish is more flexible and might offer the look you are after. I recently tried a finish I first heard about from the "Wood Whisperer" It isn't cheap and it can be hard to find, I got mine off Amazon. It is from Holland and it is called Osmo Polyx https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RDW1UY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Youtube has a few tutorials showing application methods.
This is a watch display I made with ambrosia maple treated only with Osmo, no prewash with Shellac ( my usual pretreatment on wood with variable densities.
Thanks guys. Spending the morning testing samples. Looking at old pics I see it's been a year since I started this project. Don't want to turn it into a mess.
I've got enough wood to test all suggestions. No doubt I'll find something suitable. I'll post , with recipe, when done
Amber shellac, or even garnet shellac are some of my favorites for any kind of maple. They give a nice warm look, and you can use nice thin coats to get exactly the color you are looking for.
And, of course, you can top coat with just about anything if you need more protection.
Applied wood conditioner, then 2 coats of zinnser amber shellac. 00 steel wool after each. I've applied a coat of general finishes clear wiped on.
I'll probably wipe on 1 or 2 more clear. Some blotch but minimal. Due to the different lighting when I took the pics, the color looks different but they are both more brown shade
You need blotch control - read here. What finish depends on what your capabilities are - got spray equipment? Want to wipe on? How durable? Etc. More info you provide the more help you can get.
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