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router table build

2K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  Andybb 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I plan on building a router table soon. For the top I am going to laminate two pieces of 1/2 birch plywood topped with plastic laminate. A lot of the plans I have seen show the top with lamiinate on the top and bottom sides. Is there a good reason to cover both sides or can I just put it on the top surface and finish the bottom with polyurethane?
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
I think you ll be okay going with either option.

The important part is that ALL surfaces are sealed (including the edges and around the plate opening) so that no moisture is allowed to enter the plywood and possibly swell or warp your table.

Cheers!

- FirehouseWoodworking
+1 No need to laminate the bottom. Poly, shellac or paint or primer will do. Like Dave said make sure you seal the wood under the lip of the plate.
 
#4 ·
I agree with both responses above. I have a router table (an extension on my saw) made of MDF that has no finish at all with a plastic laminate top and has been flat and stable for at least 5 years. It is always indoors, kept dry, and in a climate-controlled environment-that may have a lot to do with it staying flat. If you plan to make a router table that you use in an uninsulated workspace or something portable that you will be carrying inside/outside-you will want to do as the others have stated and thoroughly seal it

I've read that laminating both sides is done in an effort to equalize moisture absorption or release. If one side has laminate and the other does not, then the side without the laminate may "breathe easier" or release and absorb moisture at a different rate than the side with the plastic laminate.
 
#5 ·
I agree with both responses above. I have a router table (an extension on my saw) made of MDF that has no finish at all with a plastic laminate top and has been flat and stable for at least 5 years. It is always indoors, kept dry, and in a climate-controlled environment-that may have a lot to do with it staying flat. If you plan to make a router table that you use in an uninsulated workspace or something portable that you will be carrying inside/outside-you will want to do as the others have stated and thoroughly seal it

I ve read that laminating both sides is done in an effort to equalize moisture absorption or release. If one side has laminate and the other does not, then the side without the laminate may "breathe easier" or release and absorb moisture at a different rate than the side with the plastic laminate.

- Bill_Steele
Agreed…. Mines in a acclimated shop so i don't have problems without it…
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
I personally would P lam both sides if it were my build. The stability and flatness is the most important thing to consider when constructing a shop made router table. I would use two laminated pieces of 3/4" MDF or HDF and use plastic laminate on all of the surfaces including the edges. Overkill? Perhaps. But I want to build my table only once. Just my two cents from my own personal experience with keeping router table tops flat over the long haul. Good luck with your project, be safe and have fun.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
It usually not a problem if you lam one side and seal the bottom. Most all problems I've ever seen is where the table is too big and should have had additional stretchers to support the heavy router in the middle…

I supported these routers to the max..

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#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
@JackDuren - that is a very nice setup!!

On the laminating question, I'm with WoodBum.

The two issues with router tops are 1) flatness and 2) rigidity.
Laminate both sides. Why not? You already have the material, its just a little more work and will add rigidity.

Tip: leave at least 2" overhang to allow for clamps.

I also prefer MDF to plywood. Much more reliably flat (Tip: Always buy MDF from a supplier, not from the big box they stores. It is stores on 2 brackets and it will NOT be flat). Also it is denser and more stable than ply.

FYI, sealers, top coats, etc will NOT prevent moisture intrusion and subsequent wood movement. Probably splitting hairs and won't matter, but you're stand needs to be absolutely flat.

Also plywood is subject to moisture and movement just like dimensional lumber. IOW don't assume its perfectly flat. Whereas MDF (stored correctly) will be dead flat.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
I won't use MDF on anything other than a painted surface, laminating walls or veneering.. Particle board is more ridgid and MDF is not..

I've seen the results of flex on MDF too many times over the year..No way…

The problem with most router cabinets is most don't laminate the top…

We used a lot of MDF I believe it was call MEDEX for commercial builds but still wouldn't use it for a top…

But knock yourself out. it's yours. Gotta make yourself happy. I'm just making sure the options are understood..
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#12 ·
the forum does realize nobody in the residential and commercial end of cabinetry use MDF for tops because particle board doesn't cup over time like MDF.

Even trim carpenters don't use it for shelving because it sags….
 
#13 ·
the forum does realize nobody in the residential and commercial end of cabinetry use MDF for tops because particle board doesn t cup over time like MDF.

Even trim carpenters don t use it for shelving because it sags….

- JackDuren
two pieces of 3/4 mdf laminated together and i dont think youd have a problem,ive used it on my ras table and my drill press table without any issues.for shelves never nor would i use particle board for shelves.and i have seen particle board warp and cup.this is just my personal experience.
 
#16 ·
I am wanting to build a router table that is supported by the rails that extend the rip fence but I am getting confused as what I should use. by all the back and forth here. I will need the top to be slick and I will likely need another layer to glue (laminate) to it for rigidity and possibly even add some other support around the router. I was thinking of using melamine for the top and ? for the bottom. Is there a better way to do this?
 
#17 ·
I understand I remember when MDF came out. Painters couldn't paint it. Trim carpenters wouldn't use it cause it warped so bad and cabinet shops found it to be a cheap alternative to solid would panels tat were going to get painted..

Now it's on every trim job because so many house are made on the cheap with painted trim, mantals,etc…
 
#19 ·
I am wanting to build a router table that is supported by the rails that extend the rip fence but I am getting confused as what I should use. by all the back and forth here. I will need the top to be slick and I will likely need another layer to glue (laminate) to it for rigidity and possibly even add some other support around the router. I was thinking of using melamine for the top and ? for the bottom. Is there a better way to do this?

- controlfreak
Sorry not trying to confuse the forum. I get payed in this field and won't sell something I can't guarantee. It may work a million times but it only has to fail once and I seen it fail so I won'tt use it..
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am wanting to build a router table that is supported by the rails that extend the rip fence but I am getting confused as what I should use. by all the back and forth here. I will need the top to be slick and I will likely need another layer to glue (laminate) to it for rigidity and possibly even add some other support around the router. I was thinking of using melamine for the top and ? for the bottom. Is there a better way to do this?

- controlfreak

Sorry not trying to confuse the forum. I get payed in this field and won t sell something I can t guarantee. It may work a million times but it only has to fail once and I seen it fail so I won tt use it..

- JackDuren
not a problem it's great that we get a variety of opinions and experiences shared,thats what makes this forum so valuable.
ps-thats one hell of a router table,wish i had room for something like that.
 
#22 ·
Thks… I had to build it to save on space. I needed to be able to make doors without changing setups. Worked like a charm.. I use a second router table to do crowns for the rails and other chores…

- JackDuren
many would consider that a huge luxory but for what you do id say it's a neccessity.
 
#23 ·
MDF or PB or plywood you're not going to use only a 3/4" thick sheet so you either buy 1" thick stock or better yet glue two 3/4" pieces together for rigidity. For me the reason to laminate the top is for protection and ease of cleaning. Unless it's stored in a ridiculously humid environment warping shouldn't be an issue especially if it's sealed and laminated which is why melamine is often a good choice. In my small garage shop my saw wing router table often gets glue and paint etc on it so it's nice to have a surface that is durable and can be cleaned and even scraped without damaging the top.
 
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