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New Arrival MM16 (Which blades/accessories do I need now?)

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Forum topic by AJPeacock posted 10-12-2019 09:46 PM 1355 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AJPeacock

45 posts in 1230 days


10-12-2019 09:46 PM

I’d been hemming and hawing over which Grizzly Bandsaw to get.

Saw this on Craigslist and she followed me home! (I’ve always fantasized about a tall Italian Model!)

16” Resaw + 4.8hp

Tires are in great shape. Couple small dinks on the table and a scratch on the face of the saw.

Mechanically, it looks pretty much like a new saw.

I’m thinking about a woodslicer resaw blade, 1/2” or 3/4”??

I’d like to get a narrower blade to play around with (bandsaw boxes and basically learning how to use a bandsaw).
What narrower blade do you all recommend?

I’ve heard that a Carter stabilizer really helps with 1/4” or smaller blades. Thoughts?

What 1/4” blade do you recommend for a general purpose learn to cut curves blade?

The Euro guides thrust bearing has been chewed up a little. I’m not a bandsaw guy yet, but I think it was either adjusted too close or not enough tension or both. Not horrible but the lower one has some good wear on it.

A friend of mine is an electrician, he’s stopping by tomorrow to get started on a 100amp panel for my garage. So, in a couple days I’ll be able to see just how good this saw is. When I ran it before buying it, it was nice and quiet. Just a little vibration. I’m guessing it was from sitting so long unused and with the blade tensioned.

I also received a 1/2” and 1” blade with the saw.

Thanks,
AJ


21 replies so far

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2988 posts in 1758 days


#1 posted 10-12-2019 11:06 PM

Congrats, great saw! (I have a 2008 model, 3.5hp, 12” resaw)

I use mine almost exclusively for resawing (Laguna resaw king) so no real advice for skinny blades.

The euro guides basically suck, I have the carters which are good but considering the laguna ceramics.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2529 posts in 2333 days


#2 posted 10-12-2019 11:16 PM

Nice find AJ.

-- Aj

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AJPeacock

45 posts in 1230 days


#3 posted 10-12-2019 11:30 PM



Congrats, great saw! (I have a 2008 model, 3.5hp, 12” resaw)

I use mine almost exclusively for resawing (Laguna resaw king) so no real advice for skinny blades.

The euro guides basically suck, I have the carters which are good but considering the laguna ceramics.

- splintergroup

What size blade have you tried for the resaw king?

AJ

View CaptainKlutz's profile (online now)

CaptainKlutz

1939 posts in 2030 days


#4 posted 10-12-2019 11:43 PM

Which blades/accessories do I need now?

WOOD! :-)
Without cutting wood, have no clue if blades provided are usable, or if you guides are damaged and need replacing. Buying any accessories without using the saw as is, could be total waste of time/money?

It is impossible to make recommendations requested as you haven’t mentioned your project list?

FWIW – I don’t like using less than 1/4” blade on big 16-18” band saws. The large guides are challenging to keep adjusted with really narrow blades. Doesn’t matter if bearing or euro style. Issue with narrow blades is amount of flex .vs. cutting height. It is easy to use too much feed pressure on 1/8” blade, and blade wondering problems are magnified with large cutting depth, on large saw, with large blade guides. Sure you can use 1/8” blade, but if you think a 16” saw is good for curvy/scroll work with narrowest blades on thick blocks of wood, prepare to have your patience tested. It is also easy to put too much tension on 1/8” blade and break them, considering your saw is designed handle 1” wide blade for resaw.
IMHO – If you regularly intened to use 1/8-3/16 blades on curvy work; using a smaller band saw, or scroll saw is much better option.

Really good online source of blade recommendations is from the Timber Wolf site:
https://www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php
Closely study the relationship between blade width, number of teeth, configuration of teeth, and thickness recommendations. I primarily use Timberwolf or Lennox blades welded for me locally. #IAMAKLUTZ, and damage too many blades due embedded gravel or staples to attempt using expensive carbide blades.
YMMV

Enjoy your new tool.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View AJPeacock's profile

AJPeacock

45 posts in 1230 days


#5 posted 10-12-2019 11:54 PM



Which blades/accessories do I need now?

WOOD! :-)
Without cutting wood, have no clue if blades provided are usable, or if you guides are damaged and need replacing. Buying any accessories without using the saw as is, could be total waste of time/money?

It is impossible to make recommendations requested as you haven t mentioned your project list?

FWIW – I don t like using less than 1/4” blade on big 16-18” band saws. The large guides are challenging to keep adjusted with really narrow blades. Doesn t matter if bearing or euro style. Issue with narrow blades is amount of flex .vs. cutting height. It is easy to use too much feed pressure on 1/8” blade, and blade wondering problems are magnified with large cutting depth, on large saw, with large blade guides. Sure you can use 1/8” blade, but if you think a 16” saw is good for curvy/scroll work with narrowest blades on thick blocks of wood, prepare to have your patience tested. It is also easy to put too much tension on 1/8” blade and break them, considering your saw is designed handle 1” wide blade for resaw.
IMHO – If you regularly intened to use 1/8-3/16 blades on curvy work; using a smaller band saw, or scroll saw is much better option.

Really good online source of blade recommendations is from the Timber Wolf site:
https://www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php
Closely study the relationship between blade width, number of teeth, configuration of teeth, and thickness recommendations. I primarily use Timberwolf or Lennox blades welded for me locally. #IAMAKLUTZ, and damage too many blades due embedded gravel or staples to attempt using expensive carbide blades.
YMMV

Enjoy your new tool.

- CaptainKlutz

I am expecting that neither of these blades are anything to write home about. They were bought new with the saw 12 years ago.

I have a bunch of hard maple, fresh out of the kiln that I need to resaw for some Christmas presents (bookshelves etc).

AJ

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

4079 posts in 1109 days


#6 posted 10-13-2019 12:46 AM

Nice saw. I didn’t see a price, so not sure if it’s a true gloat. I was with Fred when he scored his MM gloat. It was a long drive, and a fun day.

After you get it set up, and rolling, please report back, and tell us how the resaw goes.

Best of luck with it, they are supposed to be the Holy Grail of BS’s

-- Think safe, be safe

View AJPeacock's profile

AJPeacock

45 posts in 1230 days


#7 posted 10-13-2019 12:55 AM


Nice saw. I didn t see a price, so not sure if it s a true gloat. I was with Fred when he scored his MM gloat. It was a long drive, and a fun day.

After you get it set up, and rolling, please report back, and tell us how the resaw goes.

Best of luck with it, they are supposed to be the Holy Grail of BS s

- therealSteveN

With travel (1231 miles round trip), tolls, hotel etc. it was just a few dollars north of $2200. I also gave the guy a pop up ice shanty that I had no use for. I might have got $100 for it if I put it on CraigsList, but figure it was an even swap for the 2 saw blades!

I felt it was a good deal and one of my few chances to get a great saw.

AJ

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5799 posts in 3029 days


#8 posted 10-13-2019 11:38 AM

I love mine. I did buy some smaller blades for it (Lenox Diemaster) and got an unused Lenox carbide tipped 1” blade with it. I’ve used that blade a couple of times now and it’s fantastic for ripping and resawing. The Diemaster blades (I bought a 3/8” and a 1/2” also work well, but are used on the lighter stuff. The saw also came with a 3/16” blade (and a 1/4”) brand unknown, as well as an optional set of guides for blades smaller than 1/4”. The PO had installed Great Lake casters on the saw, and had the mobility kit as well. I tried it, but like the casters better so put them back on. On mine the wheels on the mobility kit kept the lower door from opening all the way, I put a 1” oak strip between the axle and the saw base, that allowed the door to open without having to remove the wheel.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View MPython's profile

MPython

174 posts in 348 days


#9 posted 10-13-2019 01:12 PM

I have a Laguna LT 18 with ceramic guides. It came with a 1” Laguna Resew King redraw blade. Its the best resew blade I’ve ever used. It has a relatively thin kerf for a carbide tipped blade. It leaves a very clean, smooth surface and it can be resharpened (professionally). I’ve used Timberwolf blades and the Highland Woodworking Wood Slicer. Both are good blades., Of those two, I would rate the Timberwolf above the Wood Slicer because, while the Wood Slicer does a great job resewing, it dulls rather quickly. IMHO, the Resew King is far better than either. It’s pricy. I don’t know if I would have sprung for it on my own, but it came with my saw as an incentive from Laguna. Knowing what I know now, I’d buy it again in a heartbeat at the regular price.

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

228 posts in 495 days


#10 posted 10-13-2019 01:16 PM

Get a Lennox woodmaster ct 1.3t 1” carbide blade. For carbide bands they are relatively inexpensive and will leave a edge that rivals a tablesaw

View AJPeacock's profile

AJPeacock

45 posts in 1230 days


#11 posted 10-13-2019 01:44 PM



I love mine. I did buy some smaller blades for it (Lenox Diemaster) and got an unused Lenox carbide tipped 1” blade with it. I ve used that blade a couple of times now and it s fantastic for ripping and resawing. The Diemaster blades (I bought a 3/8” and a 1/2” also work well, but are used on the lighter stuff. The saw also came with a 3/16” blade (and a 1/4”) brand unknown, as well as an optional set of guides for blades smaller than 1/4”. The PO had installed Great Lake casters on the saw, and had the mobility kit as well. I tried it, but like the casters better so put them back on. On mine the wheels on the mobility kit kept the lower door from opening all the way, I put a 1” oak strip between the axle and the saw base, that allowed the door to open without having to remove the wheel.

- Fred Hargis

Fred,

Thanks for the info, do have a picture of how you have the casters setup?

AJ

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2988 posts in 1758 days


#12 posted 10-13-2019 02:38 PM


Congrats, great saw! (I have a 2008 model, 3.5hp, 12” resaw)

I use mine almost exclusively for resawing (Laguna resaw king) so no real advice for skinny blades.

The euro guides basically suck, I have the carters which are good but considering the laguna ceramics.

- splintergroup

What size blade have you tried for the resaw king?

AJ

- AJPeacock

The RK is 1”.
Great blade. I was using wood slicers but as often reported here, they cut great but dull rather quickly. I cut a lot of hard exotics so I need the lifespan to maximize the cost/benefit. The cut is ok, but no way is it ready for glue up. A real advantage is I can feed evenly for a smoother cut than the WS.

A useful mod I should mention is placing the saw up on a platform with casters (about 6” of extra height. I need to move it around my shop and the extra height really helps my back (I’m 6’3”) getting the table higher. I have jack feet to lock it in place on the floor when needed.
I bought the RK when they have their pre-packaged blades on sale. Fortunately I use a 144” blade which happened to be one of the available sizes. I refurbed an old Powermatic 14” for the small blade needs mainly to avoid blade changes which take time due to resetting the guides.

There is a MM users group on Yahoo which has a good rewritten users manual for setup (older models but still applies).

Ignore the tension gauge, tension with other methods and make your own marks on the factory gauge (tens to read too high).

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5799 posts in 3029 days


#13 posted 10-13-2019 04:02 PM

I have this pic and you can see the casters. These have a thumbwheel that you can move to lock the caster from swiveling and rolling. It lowers a foot onto the concrete. Sounds unhandy (it is, a little) but I don’t move it that much.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2529 posts in 2333 days


#14 posted 10-13-2019 04:54 PM

I also have the Great Lakes casters in my 20 inch Agggi. I like them.
I would like to give a thumbs down to Jared’s suggestion about the Woodmaster ct.
I think the 16 wheel will fall short. It’s a pretty thick band that takes lots of tension.

Good Luck

-- Aj

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

228 posts in 495 days


#15 posted 10-13-2019 06:23 PM



I also have the Great Lakes casters in my 20 inch Agggi. I like them.
I would like to give a thumbs down to Jared’s suggestion about the Woodmaster ct.
I think the 16 wheel will fall short. It’s a pretty thick band that takes lots of tension.

Good Luck

- Aj2

I have mine tensioned to 25k psi, and it runs fine (though it is on a 21” saw). Last i checked the mm16 could tension a 1” carbide band to 25 or 30k if i remember right.

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