I have used gauge blocks for a few years now for many tasks where I wanted precision cuts etc. I find them extremely useful. In my collection is a set of parallels from 3/4" to 1 3/4" in 1/8" steps, and a gauge block set from 1/16" to 2". I use the parallels mostly when I want exact rip cuts on my table saw. You may say that this precision is not necessary in woodworking… nevertheless, I find it often quicker and easier. For example, my cross-cut table saw blade is thinner than the rip cut blade, so my scale will be off at least for one of them… instead of resetting it, I simply use the parallels.
The gauge blocks are great for router table setup. I use them often to set the distance from the fence to the edge of the bit. Or, when hand routing, to set the depth of cut.
Personally, I don't think it's a good idea to have these made from aluminum. I am often a bit irritated that Woodpeck makes great tools, but always out of aluminum… I use a marking knife, and it is quite easy to cut into aluminum with that. Setting up a table saw blade with aluminum blocks will eventually scratch the aluminum as well. I prefer tool steel. And if you hunt around on eBay, you can find some pretty reasonably priced sets.
On another note… One really doesn't need a jumbo set if one is willing to use a little math. The gauge blocks for metal working are usually supplied in very clever sizes-my set for example has only 9 blocks, but I can get any thickness from 1/16" to the max. To make life easier, just for fun, I once programmed a little website "app" where you can type in the fraction you want, and you will get a visual response which blocks to use… it's pretty neat, check it out if you like: http://drtebi.com/blockcalc/
Anyway, let me know what you think about gauge blocks, aluminum vs. tool steel, and whether anyone needs this type of precision at all… could be an interesting discussion
What? You mean you are actually supposed to use that stuff? I thought Woodpecker machined and red anodized aluminum objects were primarily manufactured in "limited editions" for tool collectors. The material used in manufacturing is selected for appearance rather than durability. Who wants a collector's item made out of ugly tool steel? If they were made for real woodworkers, then they would have them available all the time. They would also be priced so that average woodworkers could afford them.
I do have and use a very limited amount of woodpeckers tools. I have other set up blocks because woodpeckers had them out of production. I use the square to check which of my other "squares" are or mostly are not square. The coping sled is the best I have used. And after I bought the saw guage at the wood shows, they came out with the extended version. I called, and received a credit for the tool, unused because this was right after the show, and was able to get the extended version. Nice people to deal with. Expensive, yes. That is why I don't own many. But the old saying, cry once or forever.
I use a digital height indicator for my TS and router cutter adjustments. While I can feel a few thou of error on a gauge block the DHI is faster and easier especially when measuring an odd (non fraction) for a half depth cut.
You also want soft metal in a gauge block (alum/brass - not steel) to avoid damaging your cutters.
I have setup blocks that I made from aluminum. I use them along with a 6" digital caliper to set a dimension greater than 6" as in laying out on a flat surface. Since I have many machinist's tools, I can use them for woodworking set-ups. It's considered not necessary, but what the hey; you got them; might as well use them. Any setup blocks I make are accurate to ±.001".
The 1, 2, and 3" blocks allow you to stand off before starting a closer measurement for TS set ups, router, and I even use them on my BS. They were so inexpensive I have 2 sets, just to keep from chasing around for them.
Well its better to have the blocks get scratched than ruin expensive blades and bits. That said you can get brass ones just as accurate on amazon for the price of shipping on walletpeckers
What I don't agree with is, that blocks made out of tool steel instead of a softer material would damage my saw blades or router bits. I am not aligning the blocks with the blades while they are spinning (???). I doubt that a little bit of touching carbide to tool steel is going to damage anything. At least not from what I have seen so far.
I find it much more annoying to have tools made from aluminum, and ding and dang them up until they not only look ugly, but also start to be inaccurate.
Nevertheless, the iGaging set looks like a steal compared to the Woodpeck tools… the smallest kit from Woodpeck (apart from the metric set) is $139.99 and includes 13 pieces. Maybe it really is more of a collectors tool after all.
What you will see are Instagram poseurs pretending to actually use tools by posing with them, who have a wall of Woodpecker tools behind them. Of course they have no dust on them, and they are in their original milled MDF frames. They are just there for display.
I have some Woodpecker squares that I got on sale. Good quality, but I'd never pay retail for them.
Maybe it really is more of a collectors tool after all.
- DrTebi
What you will see are Instagram poseurs pretending to actually use tools by posing with them, who have a wall of Woodpecker tools behind them. Of course they have no dust on them, and they are in their original milled MDF frames. They are just there for display.
I have some Woodpecker squares that I got on sale. Good quality, but I d never pay retail for them.
You confirm my suspicion on why those tools are so clean in every shot I see. lol. There are a few -gramers that I believe use their WP tools to their fullest but can't imagine many. I have a few of their tools myself and grab them when I want accuracy. When absolute precision is not necessary, I grab whatever is close by that can get the job done.
Because I build scale model trains, I find precision tools like calipers, gauges and blocks all are indispensable. When building a household project, I just follow standard woodworking procedures where precision is not as important, but accuracy is. Eyesight is also a good reason to use precision tooling. With failing eyesight, you can depend on "feel".
What I don t agree with is, that blocks made out of tool steel instead of a softer material would damage my saw blades or router bits. I am not aligning the blocks with the blades while they are spinning (???). I doubt that a little bit of touching carbide to tool steel is going to damage anything. At least not from what I have seen so far.
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Interesting. As earlier you said that setting up your table saw was scratching up the aluminum ones. This can't work one way. So if this is truly the case then aluminum is fine.
I know for me i like to get them to touch the high point of the blade, also ensuring parallel on a table saw, and hand rotating router bit to get to the apex of the cutter head diameter.
The comments on prices kinda tells why most everything is made over seas. But yet we complain about the quality of many of those tools. Can't have it both ways unless we match wages, working conditions and environmental issues.
Made in USA is one good reason to buy Woodpeckers. Quality is another. I just wanted a few good set up tools. But if I win the lottery, that could change things. And eyes not what they used to be is another good reason for set up blocks as mentioned above. If the feeling in the hands goes, it will be time to quit due to safety.
I'm not going to spend $420 on fixed interval step blocks that I still have to use my finger as a feeler gauge on when I can spend $60 on a DHI and set to any .0005" needed.
Not to mention that with a touch of diabetic neuropathy in my fingers feeling for 'even' isn't as easy as reading a large digital display.
Here is a short video showing how I use setup blocks and a dial indicator to setup my router table:
Sure, it's a bit obsessive, but sometimes you need just that much of precision. It really helped me to make some double mortises on my router table once for example.
I just bought some keyway stock. 1/8" through 3 /4" in increments of 1/16th. With those and my three 123 blocks , I'm good to go for most tool set ups. My tapes gather dust.
Yeah I use the i Gaging ones I linked to on virtually every set up. The advantage I see is you stack, or place just one for any set up distance, it's a known quantity, stamped right on the die. If I use a tape, there is that idiot wiggler at the end, so yeah start mid tape. Uhhh huh, hold that in the exact spot while you wiggle your ears, and whistle…. What I'm saying is I don't get transposition errors with the blocks, I get them plenty using tapes, folding rules, whatever. I think it may well be what you get used to? I'm an old enough fart, and I am Diabetic, When my sugar is perfect I can see wonderfully with my glasses, up or down, and vision gets a bit swimmy, so they allow me dead nutz set up. I don't see a problem in the overall, it's just trying to pick one of many small lines is sometimes daunting.
I only own 1 red tool, I bought it for a dollar at an auction. Choked when I saw the retail for it, but it's really handy to quick check corners for square. Plus it's small enough to keep in an apron pocket, without it stabbing you all the time.
What I don t agree with is, that blocks made out of tool steel instead of a softer material would damage my saw blades or router bits. I am not aligning the blocks with the blades while they are spinning (???). I doubt that a little bit of touching carbide to tool steel is going to damage anything. At least not from what I have seen so far.
I find it much more annoying to have tools made from aluminum, and ding and dang them up until they not only look ugly, but also start to be inaccurate.
Nevertheless, the iGaging set looks like a steal compared to the Woodpeck tools… the smallest kit from Woodpeck (apart from the metric set) is $139.99 and includes 13 pieces. Maybe it really is more of a collectors tool after all.
I can't say I have ever used set up blocks for anything. I always preset the measurement, run a test piece and measure it, adjust as needed. Old fashion I guess but it works for me.
I just find my eyes and tape measurement don't always agree. My fingertips have never led me astray. I want 3/16 depth, I can get it. I find test cuts are almost always one cut now too. Even when I was young and had great vision, sometimes I was jiggling back and forth trying to get it right off a rule. I wish I had access to these things years ago.
I can t say I have ever used set up blocks for anything. I always preset the measurement, run a test piece and measure it, adjust as needed. Old fashion I guess but it works for me.
I can t say I have ever used set up blocks for anything. I always preset the measurement, run a test piece and measure it, adjust as needed. Old fashion I guess but it works for me.
Same here, for the table saw at least. When I need maximum precision for a rip cut-to-width I'll oversize the cut slightly, measure the width with some dial calipers, then place a magnetic base dial gauge on the table with the plunger set to the fence. I then can tap the fence in/out the exact required distance to compensate. The process is quick.
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