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Mandrel type for 10-24 insert

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Forum topic by Pixelthinker posted 10-04-2019 02:29 AM 372 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Pixelthinker

6 posts in 147 days


10-04-2019 02:29 AM

Topic tags/keywords: lathe mandrel 10-24

I need to turn wood with a 10-24 insert. What type of mandrel do I need for attaching a 10-24 thread to a lathe with a 1”x 8tpi spindle?


11 replies so far

View Kenbu's profile

Kenbu

36 posts in 2523 days


#1 posted 10-04-2019 11:19 AM

You could mount 10-24 all-thread or a piece of bolt in your chuck. Or invest in a set of collets, for more accuracy.

Ken

View ibewjon's profile

ibewjon

1259 posts in 3435 days


#2 posted 10-04-2019 12:36 PM

What are you trying to do? 10/24 is pretty weak connection. Sanding, or actually turning?

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Pixelthinker

6 posts in 147 days


#3 posted 10-04-2019 03:15 PM



What are you trying to do? 10/24 is pretty weak connection. Sanding, or actually turning?

- ibewjon

I’m turning, and yes it is a weak connection. But I’ve seem finials done that aren’t any bigger. Specifically I’m making a craft knife handle. I’ve done one using a pen tuning mandrel but that leaves a hole through the wood, which I’m trying to avoid.

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Pixelthinker

6 posts in 147 days


#4 posted 10-04-2019 03:17 PM



You could mount 10-24 all-thread or a piece of bolt in your chuck. Or invest in a set of collets, for more accuracy.

Ken

- Kenbu

The all-thread makes a lot of sense. Then graduate to the collets at some point.

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ibewjon

1259 posts in 3435 days


#5 posted 10-04-2019 03:25 PM

Look for a higher grade bolt, a grade 5 or grade 8, which are stronger than standard bolts. I don’t know if #10 bolts come in a better grade but it is worth a look. Also some stainless bolts are a harder grade.

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Pixelthinker

6 posts in 147 days


#6 posted 10-10-2019 07:48 PM

HW store didn’t have high grade 3/16” bolts but they did have stainless. Jerry rigged setup was wonky but worked with a lot of patience. Of course I had to start with a hard to work wood (black palm), so it should be easier from now on. The aluminum insert I used was the weakest point. I may try brass next time. Anything stouter also has a larger diameter, making it less suitable for this particular use. Thanks everyone for the advice!

https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/pz6c6js.jpg!

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

5743 posts in 4305 days


#7 posted 10-10-2019 09:59 PM

Thanks for posting this … nice work! Quite often, when somebody asks a question like yours, we never get to see the end result!

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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SMP

1809 posts in 548 days


#8 posted 10-11-2019 02:39 AM

Beautiful! Sure beats my aluminum one with 30 years of oxidation!

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Pixelthinker

6 posts in 147 days


#9 posted 10-11-2019 02:48 PM



Beautiful! Sure beats my aluminum one with 30 years of oxidation!

- SMP

LOL. Thanks! Need to come up with a fabricated cap now.

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Pixelthinker

6 posts in 147 days


#10 posted 10-11-2019 02:48 PM



Thanks for posting this … nice work! Quite often, when somebody asks a question like yours, we never get to see the end result!

- TheDane

Thanks!

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5831 posts in 3886 days


#11 posted 10-11-2019 08:04 PM

You could get a 10-24 socket head cap screw, cut off the head and chuck it in a 3 jaw chuck in the head stock. SHCS’s are grade 8.

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