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Forum topic by BlasterStumps posted 09-29-2019 09:58 PM 552 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BlasterStumps

1675 posts in 1206 days


09-29-2019 09:58 PM

I posted earlier in the year that my wife and I were planning a workshop. I was tied up for the summer building a couple decks onto the house so I didn’t start in on the workshop. I finished up the decks so I’m getting going on it now and have a real plain and simple drawing of it. Going in to the planning office this week to get a permit for the foundation work. I will do most of the carpentry work myself but not the concrete work. Anyway, I am always looking for other folks’ input when doing something like this so I thought I would show my drawing to see if anyone has any suggestions, tips or cautions, etc. It is planned to be a 24’ x 28’ with wood floor over crawl space. Nine foot ceiling, 7/12 roof pitch. The excavation is already existing so I don’t want to try to backfill and compact for a concrete slab. I think that would be too costly. I was thinking of using TJI joists 16”OC but need to figure out the framing to allow for a trapdoor to the crawl space. I think I have that figured. Don’t know what else I can share about the building, it’s just a big open shell for now. We are making it smaller than we originally planned and no garage door.
It will have a 200A main and I am planning a couple 220V circuits along with the 120V circuits. I’m planning a mini split and it will be insulated the best I can within our budget. Number, size and type windows will depend on what we can find and what we can afford.
I appreciate any and all input on it.

Anyway, here is the floor plan drawing:

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado


7 replies so far

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firefighterontheside

21033 posts in 2623 days


#1 posted 09-29-2019 10:36 PM

Is the 7/12 pitch to match the house or did you just want 7/12? Seems steep otherwise.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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BlasterStumps

1675 posts in 1206 days


#2 posted 09-29-2019 10:50 PM

good catch, I don’t know why I put 7/12. It should be 5/12 pitch same as our garage on the house. Thank you.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

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CaptainKlutz

3140 posts in 2261 days


#3 posted 09-29-2019 11:22 PM

IMHO – Shop space formula is easy.
Tools + work bench + glue station + assembly table(s) + space to move around everything + mechanical room with compressor & dust collector + dust free finishing room = Killer Work Shop.

Tip 1: Just don’t forget to build space for wood storage. It is impossible to have too much wood storage.
In my world: Amount of lumber you want/need to store will always exceed the available space.

Tip 2: If you plan to work LARGE cabinet/furniture projects, make sure you have a large wood staging area in shop to get wood acclimated before use.

Tip 3: Wood framed floors can be tricky. Talk to professional architect and/or building permit folks; and make sure your wood floor design is proper for weight of your tools and wood. If you expect to put a 750lb 20” planer, or any antique 16” jointer bulging with cast iron in the shop; standard residential weight loading is not enough (unless you like bouncy/creaking floors?). Heavy duty industrial tools require a heavy duty Industrial floor design. There is also a big difference between static loads, and live loads (tools on mobile bases) in determining floor design.

Best Luck on new shop!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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BlasterStumps

1675 posts in 1206 days


#4 posted 09-29-2019 11:31 PM

Thanks Captain. We were thinking we would go with 11 7/8 TJI with a center support beam. I don’t have much in the way of big tools. Seems like that would give good floor but I will check that some more.
We could make the building longer but 28’ seems fair sized for my stuff and some wood storage.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

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firefighterontheside

21033 posts in 2623 days


#5 posted 09-29-2019 11:36 PM

Might have to go to 12” spacing on floor joists. That being said, my shop is 12×24 with 2×10 floor joists spanning 12’ on 16” centers. The floor is strong. I have a 3hp sawstop in the middle with no problem.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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CaptainKlutz

3140 posts in 2261 days


#6 posted 09-30-2019 12:59 AM


Might have to go to 12” spacing on floor joists. That being said, my shop is 12×24 with 2×10 floor joists spanning 12’ on 16” centers. The floor is strong. I have a 3hp sawstop in the middle with no problem.
- firefighterontheside

Don’t forget floor capacity is more than center line of joists and size. It is also the thickness and density of actual floor on top of joists. Higher live loads usually translates into thicker flooring, using a mix of OSB, plywood, and/or solid wood to better distribute loads using opposing grain directions. Also have to reinforce any large openings in floor differently too.

There is a lot of science to a strong foundation and floor.

I would personally never make a flooring recommendation without all information on what will be inside the building, max number of occupants, and local building code requirements for natural disaster risks for geographical area where building is located.

Again my work shop flooring tip:
Consult a professional to ensure you get floor loading design right for your application.
Better to be safe, than sorry.

Cheers!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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BlasterStumps

1675 posts in 1206 days


#7 posted 11-13-2019 01:14 AM

Update on our shop build. Not building it after all. Waaaay too expensive to build right now. Would have topped 80 or 90K for a small shop. Just not happening.

Howsomeever…We signed the work order and wrote the check so we are having a 14’ X 24’ Workshop portable building made by a local company. Way lot cheaper in the long run. We can place it in back of the garage so that it is not visible from the front of our property. CaptainKlutz you will be happy to know we took some of your advice and we will have engineered trusses for the roof and 2×6 floor joists 12” on center with 3/4 Plywood flooring. The building is slightly smaller than we first planned but something like 15K versus 80K is quite a lot of money difference. I just didn’t need a shop that. This portable building will have a garage door on the north end that will open up to a 12’ x 15’ concrete slab. My plan is to set the height of the building so that I can roll my TS or mitre station, etc., out on the slab when the weather permits. Good for summer time as it will have some shade there as well. Then too, the concrete slab is right between where we are placing the portable workshop and the back wall of our two car garage. I wont need to move all tools to the workshop. We are thinking it is a good plan. I have been working on line locates so that I can start building a pad for the building. I also will get our permit for the building tomorrow. We are planning to wire it for lights and a couple 15 Amp 120 Volt circuits. The company that is building it is going to tilt the completed floor up on a side and call in a guy to spray foam it underneath. Then they will build the building. Two window, a man door and a garage door is all that we spec’d out. May add a window. I’m thinking R25 in the walls, and R38 or so in the ceiling. Not sure yet what interior finish we want yet, drywall or panels. Just going to paint the floor with some porch paint we think. The Workshop will be close to the house but not too close for fire safety. Close enough though that I should still be able to make it to the house in time when nature calls. Not joking there. That’s a concern, let me tell ya. : ) Delivery, mid Dec. Yay!

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

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