Craftsman 113.24281 buying help

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Forum topic by twonycott posted 09-20-2019 06:45 PM 262 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 31 days

09-20-2019 06:45 PM

Hello All,

I am looking for a new table saw and love the idea of buying an old used one and fixing it up as I use it more and can save more. My budget right now is about 200 dollars and I have found an old Craftsman saw that has some promise. I started looking at the job site saws but I don’t like the durability of them and the fact that they are what they are and can’t get better. Also, if I wanted to do more accurate cuts I would have to replace it. So I feel like an older saw is a better option. Most of my projects are home chores like build barn/sliding doors, build small table. There are outside jobs like build a fence. I can see this hobby growing as I gain more knowledge and skills. I am in a smaller garage (1.5 car) and a cabinet saw is not an option. The craftsman saw I found is listed for 90 but can get it for 60-70. I plan to look at it tonight.

My questions are:
They did not give me the model number but from what I can tell its a 113.24281 which is an 8 inch table saw. How much of a disadvantage is the 8 inch vs a 10 inch. I can’t find any posting with recommendations other than bigger is better.
I have been told to look that the table is level and that everything else “blade to miter” can be “adjusted”.
Is there anything else I need to be on the look out.

6 replies so far

View CaptainKlutz's profile


1898 posts in 2007 days

#1 posted 09-20-2019 08:31 PM

Best Luck. There are ton of used saws available. Can be daunting to find a good one.

My comments:

1) Skip the 8” blade saws, and get a 10”. Limited choices in 8” blade tooth geometry can limit any serious hardwood furniture projects. The smaller blade is also limits the thickness for mitered cuts to wood ~5/4 of less. If cutting only 90 degree 2×4 softwoods, or like extra work cleaning up cut surfaces with sanding/plane; then don’t care.

2) The differences in various fences sold on contractor saws is what separates the best from rest. If you are planning on upgrading to a t-square fence; then you can buy most any contractor saw with solid motor, and fix it up. If you want to use it as is for awhile, then if might be hard to stay under budget. 99% of the contractor saws I see with most desirable fences, all sell for $200-350 for good reason.

3) Saws are simple to inspect. Look for broken cast iron, or missing parts. Belts can/should be replaced as old one creates extra vibration. Makes sure motor works, and makes zero noise; any growling/screeching noises means it needs bearings, and more work to restore. If saw shakes when turn on, remove the belt and see if stops. If motor is shaking all alone, then skip that saw. Check wiring for dry cracked insulation or damage. As long as rust does not show heavy pitting, and motor works; most any saw can be cleaned and put back in service.

4) Reconsider a used cabinet saw.
- Size of contractor saw is 32-34” high, 27”D with ~60-62” wide fence. The size of Unisaw with small 30” fence has almost exact same height/depth/length foot print in shop. So you can fit a cabinet saw in 1.5 garage shop.
- There are a significant number of old Unisaw that were sold with 110/220v 1.0HP – 1.5HP RI motors. These are much better machine compared to contractor saw, and use same 110V outlet. The old RI motor has more torque than induction motor. The old RI motor is just like your 2.5-3HP router motor that only draws 15A @110v, and they work great. Look for one made before late 70’s when they switched to modern 3-5HP induction motors that are all 220v.
- They can be dirt cheap. Bought 1954 model Unisaw for $200 a couple months ago, and passed on another $250 RI motor machine recently due lack of space. Picked up a 3Hp Unisaw for $100 last week too, but that is another story of tool restoration addiction.
- The old Unisaw tube fences are better than all but the best contractor saw fences. You can use it for awhile, and upgrade to t-square fence later.
IMHO – for $200 and some time spent looking; you can find a decent cabinet saw that fits in 110v powered 1.5 car garage, and will be better machine than any old contractor saw.


-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View knotscott's profile


8339 posts in 3888 days

#2 posted 09-20-2019 08:56 PM

I’d pass on the 8” too. Fewer blade choices, the area in front of the blade is shorter, there’s overall less mass, typically less horsepower, and it’ll likely be harder to find aftermarket add-ons that fit properly (fence, wings, possibly miter gauge, etc).

10” should offer better performance, and more options overall.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View twonycott's profile


2 posts in 31 days

#3 posted 09-21-2019 08:15 PM

ks for the suggestion.

I am passing on the 8” table saw. I would still like a “classic” that I can get cheap and upgrade.

This one is on facebook but I am unsure if its a 10inch or what model it is. Does anyone recognize it?

View SSotolongo's profile


62 posts in 210 days

#4 posted 09-21-2019 08:32 PM

Don’t rush the purchase. Keep checking and something will come up. I found a Craftsman 22114 with an upgraded fence and paid $150 for it after a few months of looking. And I live in South Florida where everyone thinks they’re Chinese knockoff is the latest Delta or Sawstop cabinet saw.

View knotscott's profile


8339 posts in 3888 days

#5 posted 09-21-2019 08:54 PM

If you list your general location, someone here might have a good lead for you.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View farmfromkansas's profile


125 posts in 127 days

#6 posted 09-23-2019 02:25 AM

i used to have an old Craftsman saw like that, gave it to a friend and bought a new Unisaw 15 years ago. Cost of a new fence and new motor made me think about the best way to go, and I had bought the saw used years before. Think that saw is around 60 years old, maybe older. And was no where close to the saw of a Unisaw when it was new.

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