Table saw top

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Oldschoolguy posted 09-20-2019 03:17 PM 818 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Oldschoolguy's profile


108 posts in 749 days

09-20-2019 03:17 PM

Good morning y’all. Right about now my head is ready to explode and frustration at an all time high. Because of limited space and funds, I just purchased a brand new DWE7480 job site saw. All unpacked and set up. Lots of nice features and very happy with it, except for one itsy bitsy feature…...table top. Because Dewalt haphazardly for cost reasons or stupidity, put a POS PLASTIC table top on this thing…....why, why, why? The top is not flat by any stretch of the imagination. I’m not going to send this G^D damn thing back, so what now my industrious LJ’s? I could take it to a machine shop and have a aluminum table fabricated and machined. However, that will undoubtedly cost a small fortune, but I’m particular and will not put up with such s^^t. I’m starting a project for and overseen by my wife for a table stand made of maple. My very first project made from hardwood. Suggestions!!!!!!!!! please.

20 replies so far

View JCamp's profile (online now)


1242 posts in 1463 days

#1 posted 09-20-2019 03:32 PM

Not what u wanna hear but I’d send it back. Any sanding or milling will likely void the warranty and since it’s plastic nothing will stop it from flexing again. Send it back and either get a new better quality saw OR find u a good quality used one (the craftsman 113 is a great basic saw that most all of us have or have had at one point and will run u under $200 pretty easy). To me other than space saving there is nothing real special about that dewalt. Good luck

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

View Rich's profile


6142 posts in 1502 days

#2 posted 09-20-2019 03:42 PM

All job site saws are going to have features intended to reduce cost and especially weight. Why put a heavy cast iron table on a saw that’s meant to be portable?

They are not intended for precise cutting. They are intended to be used on the job site to rip sheet goods, etc. Rough cuts for construction, not fine woodworking. There would be no point in getting a replacement since the new one is likely going to have the same issues.

Look around for something on Craigslist. Maybe you can find a good deal on a contractor grade saw.

Or just live with it.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Fenns's profile


20 posts in 487 days

#3 posted 09-20-2019 03:47 PM

Do the dips in the table top coincide with the attachment points of the top to the base? Could you shim those and flatten it out better? Just a thought.

View Oldschoolguy's profile


108 posts in 749 days

#4 posted 09-20-2019 03:50 PM

Hey JCamp, then I’ll more than likely end up with a saw where the fence doesn’t clamp parallel to the saw blade. The Rigid saw I have now is a perfect example of that.

View Brawler's profile


180 posts in 743 days

#5 posted 09-20-2019 04:01 PM

Hey JCamp, then I ll more than likely end up with a saw where the fence doesn t clamp parallel to the saw blade. The Rigid saw I have now is a perfect example of that.

- Oldschoolguy

You are probably correct, however I used a pair of drafting squares with my craftsman 113 to solve that issue. I now have a Unisaw and the 113 is a dedicated dado saw.

-- Daniel, Pontiac, MI

View MrRon's profile


5954 posts in 4156 days

#6 posted 09-20-2019 04:22 PM

If it were mine, I would fabricate a new top from either aluminum plate, Baltic birch or MDO. The latter 2 would be considered expendable and replaced when it becomes too worn. I do have the tools and ability to do that, but maybe you do not. The only other option would be to return it and look for a used 113 or similar. There are lots of them around.

View controlfreak's profile


1385 posts in 514 days

#7 posted 09-20-2019 04:50 PM

I have a Kobalt jobsite saw with collapsing stand w/wheels. This is required because my shop is so small I often need to roll it outside to work with long boards. Yes I need to use a square to align my fence each time and the top may not be perfect but I understand that there are limitations to cheap and portable. I dream of one day owning a saw with a self aligning fence and a cast iron top that is flat and true but that day is not today. Anyway, it does have an aluminum top and maybe you can find a similar aluminum topped saw that is flatter than plastic.

Side note, I went and got some Mag Switches to hold feather boards for ripping and to use as a reference for micro adjustments. It had never occured to me that my top was aluminum and the Mag Switches didn’t work out too well. Experience is what you get when don’t get what you really wanted.

View ibewjon's profile


2136 posts in 3706 days

#8 posted 09-20-2019 05:52 PM

Send it back. Plenty of other saws around. Fabricate a new top for a brand new saw? Why? I should work when you buy it. Fine tuning, yes. New table, no way. Junk is junk.

View Sark's profile


352 posts in 1273 days

#9 posted 09-20-2019 07:53 PM

If the plastic table top is reasonable rigid, I’d sand it flat and and top coat with epoxy. Bondo could work too, but epoxy is certainly harder. I’ve done this before on warped table saw tops with pretty good results.
The process is sand, fill, inspect and repeat until things are flat.

Aluminum is better, light weight, too but just more expensive.

View ruger's profile


142 posts in 1008 days

#10 posted 09-20-2019 09:22 PM

stop the madness…send it back.

View ruger's profile


142 posts in 1008 days

#11 posted 09-20-2019 09:29 PM

stop the madness…send it back. I refuse to spend my watered down currency on cheap crap made by slave labor in hina . c

View ruger's profile


142 posts in 1008 days

#12 posted 09-20-2019 09:30 PM

stop the madness…send it back. I refuse to spend my watered down currency on cheap crap made by slave labor in china . whenever possible.

View Woodknack's profile


13512 posts in 3292 days

#13 posted 09-21-2019 06:32 AM

What Rich said. Those little saws are for construction, not woodworking. They are for tossing in the back of a truck and hauling from jobsite to jobsite and they are lucky to last the summer so there is no point in putting metal tables on them. The table is too small and the fence lacks precision. Sure you can do good work on them but it’s the nature of the beast that they will be full of compromise and less than ideal.

-- Rick M,

View Woodbum's profile


942 posts in 3978 days

#14 posted 09-21-2019 11:38 AM

Send it back while you still can. You will never be happy with this saw no mater what you do to it. Cut your losses now.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View SSotolongo's profile


72 posts in 609 days

#15 posted 09-21-2019 11:54 PM

Send it back. Those saws are called “job site” saws for a reason. I had one and it worked great when I had to cut a corner or rip a laminate board. It didn’t have to be perfect because the baseboards would cover it up. When I was going to make some more precise cuts for a home project, it wouldn’t work because the fence would move and I could not get it true 90 degrees. I looked around and found a Craftsman zip code saw for $150. If you don’t plan on moving it, then go used and get something better. I am only mad that I waited this long to upgrade.

showing 1 through 15 of 20 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics