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Bowl Blank Advice Needed

1K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  Wildwood 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Just received my first order of bowl blanks from Got Wood? This is kiln dried stock that I thought was fairly priced. Does any one have experience with cracks and splits with this? Should I clean off the wax it was shipped with? I would appreciate any advice about using these blanks. Also if there is a better source of blanks, let me know.
 
#3 ·
Just because wood has been thru kiln cycle to certain MC (moisture content) doesn't mean it won't adsorb moisture later. They seal their blank in wax to keep it gaining or losing moisture content. You might want to scrap wax off sides not end grain and let it hang out week or two so blank can reach decent MC for your area.
 
#4 ·
I would agree with Bill's comments on letting the blank acclimatize by removing the wax and would add that you might also rough out your intended bowl and then let it set for a few days. Put the roughed out blank in sawdust or a brown paper bag would be a good idea to so any change in MC will be gradual. This is the same method used by a lot of turners who start with green wood.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
I seriously doubt a 2+" thick blank is actually dry, which is why it's sealed in wax. You can scrape the long grain wax off to let it "acclimate" but you need to wait a year or more. Best to just mount and rough turn, bag with chips, weigh it, and when the weight stops changing finish turn it. The best blanks are any free wet wood you can conjure up. Spend a few hundred on a chain saw, learn how to use it to cut blanks, and start looking around for free trees/wood.

Once you get enough experience you can buy "exotic" blanks that you cant get locally, but you want to make a few hundred bowls so you dont screw up the expensive wood.
 
#6 ·
Just because wood has been thru kiln cycle to certain MC (moisture content) doesn't mean it won't adsorb moisture later. They seal their blank in wax to keep it gaining or losing moisture content. You might want to scrap wax off sides not end grain and let it hang out week or two so blank can reach decent MC for your area.

- Wildwood
The wax doesn't stop moisture from transferring. It just slows it down.
 
#7 ·
Jim, Georgia says "The wax doesn't stop moisture transfer, just slows it down! When drying wood end sealing only that's what we hope to accomplish to prevent drying defects!

Well that's certainly true here because web site says they only end seal with wax their kiln dried wood. If understand moisture leaves ends of 12 times faster than sides that makes sense. They tell you their wet wood is completely sealed in wax.

Most wood merchants buy their turning wood by the pound completely sealed in wax or seal it themselves from many different parts of the country & over seas. Only vendor ever saw sling unsealed wood is at a woodturners symposium.

Completely sealing turning blanks in paraffin wax makes perfect sense because don't know how many different MC that blank experience before getting to ultimate user. Because blanks completely sealed in wax won't let moisture in and out, scrap sides and leave end grain sealed or reseal if must.

Did you know Wood Coating's Scientist tell us wood dipped into paraffin wax one cost has moisture-excluding effectiveness of 100% for certain period of time. One coat brushed on paraffin 97%. They are talking about cutting boards & butcher blocks and period of 15 days!
 
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