Unfinished Moxon vise questions

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Forum topic by controlfreak posted 09-18-2019 02:57 PM 173 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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219 posts in 114 days

09-18-2019 02:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: moxon

I want to protect this a little but don’t want to make the surface slick or cause the surface or vise jaws to stain or effect the surface of raw wood being worked on. Is BLO a good choice?

Also haven’t coated the maple jaws with cork or leather. They grip really firm without but what would you all do? Leave naked, coat one or both sides, cork or leather?

Second issue is the front jaw. I was wanting to cut a bevel between the inner two dog holes so that I can tilt the saw while cutting half blind dovetails. I am at a loss as to how I can get a clean cut on this. I am doubting that I can get a router bit that big of a 45. I suppose I could get a trim bit and make a jig to hold the router at a 45 degree angle and make repeated passes maybe. I have yet to build my router table so that is not an option at this point. I could use the bandsaw but aligning the cut could be a problem. So here I am asking the wise folks at LJ for help once again, thank you all in advance.

6 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile


5542 posts in 2864 days

#1 posted 09-18-2019 03:27 PM

I think BLO is perfect for that type project, it is easily renewable. You can get some pretty large chamfer bits that would work on that, but I would use it on the router table. Build that first.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View HokieKen's profile


10963 posts in 1651 days

#2 posted 09-18-2019 03:34 PM

I’d sketch the bevel in on the front jaw then chop the bulk of the waste with a chisel then finish it with spokeshave/rasps/sandpaper.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Andre's profile


2805 posts in 2319 days

#3 posted 09-18-2019 03:35 PM

For the jaw bevel, I rough cut mine on the band tilt table 45 degres, saw then rasp and spoke shave to finish, believe it is called a Lambs tongue? Go with leather for the jaws, both sides. IMHO. I just used Shellac on my Moxon.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View controlfreak's profile


219 posts in 114 days

#4 posted 09-18-2019 04:14 PM

In thinking about how I would move this piece across my bandsaw I was thinking about building some sort of jig or sled. I completely forgot that I can tilt the table.

View MrWolfe's profile


354 posts in 636 days

#5 posted 09-18-2019 04:18 PM

Nice build.
I don’t use leather or cork on my moxons but I can see how it would help.
I agree with Kenny and Andre about chisels and rasps to cut the bevel but I do it a little differently. I scribe the bevel along the top and the face of the chop and use a pull saw to cut almost down to the lines, a series of cuts spaced about 1/8 apart, THEN I use my chisel to chop out the waste pare down to the lines, or a rasp to shape it if there is a strange grain that my chisel won’t cut.

Everyone’s suggestion is a good one. So it really comes down to your tools and preference.

I used a combination of Beeswax, BLO and terpentine to finish my last couple of benches and I absolutely love it.
Roughly about four ounces of shaved beeswax in a container with just enough terpentine to cover. The terp will melt the beeswax after a day or two. Then I mixed in the B.L.O. and it sets up to the consistancy of Johnson’s Paste Wax.
It is great and I am using it on all my chisel handles and any handtools as well as the benches.

I would say something like 4 oz beeswax 2 oz Terpe 2 oz B.L.O.

If its too thin you can add more Beeswax… I did this the first time by putting shaved beeswax in a microwave proof container and melting it the slowly added it to the mixture.

If its too thick you can add more B.L.O. or if its too solid a little bit of terpentine.

You had mentioned handles in your other post. Here is what I made out of oak and dowels. My prototype out of pine did not last more than a couple of days before it failed. The oak one I used thin cyanacrylic to strengthen it.


I like it because it works on two seperate moxons. I usually just hand tighten the star nuts on them but with this I can really snug down on them if I need to… carefully. I don’t torque on it really tight but it is tighter than I can do with my hand.

View controlfreak's profile


219 posts in 114 days

#6 posted 09-18-2019 06:48 PM

I knew I had seen that key before. I am in the process of looking at that star nut and figuring out what will work the best. I even bought an extra bar so I could have two extra star nuts. I may try embedding them in into larger wood wheels to give it more of a home made look. I also could make a handle similar to how I did the rear jaw. I marked the star nut and drilled each point with a 1/2” forstner bit and then the center out to the inside of the dips on the drill press. The remaining I used a chisel to remove. My fear is that it will be a two handed operation if not deep enough.

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