Sycamore cookie crack: logistics of using copper bowtie

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Forum topic by coalcracker posted 09-17-2019 06:56 PM 371 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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31 posts in 640 days

09-17-2019 06:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bowtie slab crack check

I have a dry 5-6” thick Sycamore cookie (my old tree:)), about 30” diameter, that I’d like to make into an end table. There is a radial check/crack about 9” long and 3/4” max at the periphery that I gather (I’m a beginner) I will want to stabilize.

I came across some copper bowties that I’d like to use instead of the classic wood. These are designed to be seen, so I would use one on the top of the table. I’m not sure if the crack is big enough to warrant one of the bottom as well (5” thick slab). I plan to use prefab metal legs so I could span the underside of the crack with one of these

I’m looking for some assistance with planning, particularly with the logical sequence of events. Here are two options I’m considering.


1. Flatten slab with router jig, sand and prep surface and edges of slab
2. Create cutout for bowtie and dry fit
3. Glue in bowtie (polyurethane glue?)
4. Pour epoxy in crack. Will I have any issues cleaning epoxy off the bowtie? I would try to wipe clean before it dries I imagine.
5. After dried, clean up surface with card scraper and/or additional sanding
6. Polyurethane on top (including copper bowtie?)

Option #2

1. Fill cracks with epoxy first
2. Flatten slab with router jig after epoxy hardens, sand and prep surface
3. Create cutout for bowtie (will cutting the epoxy be a problem?)
4. Glue bowtie and clean up glue (maybe an issue)
5. Polyurethane.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

4 replies so far

View wildwoodbybrianjohns's profile


2208 posts in 459 days

#1 posted 09-17-2019 07:18 PM

I am sure there will be others along to give you great advice for your query. I will just say that if you use copper, make sure it is clean(acetone); and use 2-part epoxy to glue it in place. Again, acetone cleans up epoxy well.

If you will fill all checks and such with epoxy, its good practice to do a sealer coat first, and there are many different products you can do so with, ie., shellac, epoxy, sanding sealer, etc., and this way you can eliminate most of the air bubbles that will form in your epoxy pour- if you dont seal the wood first.

-- Wildwood by Brian Johns: The Big Bang: Nothing - exploded into Everything. Thanks to Nothing.

View pottz's profile


12223 posts in 1896 days

#2 posted 09-17-2019 07:41 PM

check out LJ john malecki he has done tables with metal bow ties im sure he’d help you out.

-- working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

View coalcracker's profile


31 posts in 640 days

#3 posted 09-17-2019 07:50 PM

check out LJ john malecki he has done tables with metal bow ties im sure he d help you out.

- pottz

Huh, I’m in Pittsburgh too. Small world!

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2775 posts in 1074 days

#4 posted 09-17-2019 08:12 PM

the copper “could” have issues of green oxidation down the road.

my father placed copper wire in a groove in our kitchen cabinets
years ago. even tho the wire had a lacquer finish and the doors were
varnished which sealed the wire, they still turned the groove green.
this one procedure may require a little more research than the rest of
the things you will be doing in the project.



-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

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