extension cord for table saw

what size is the wire on the motor now ?

for a ten foot extended run, I would replace the wire to the motor.
extension cords are designed for “temporary” use only.
(just my personal choice, don’t know about the code: but for me,
for 220v I would use 10ga stranded wire – not 12ga).

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-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

What you want to do will work just fine. The saw’s power and performance will be unaffected by it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

I’m with John. What you want to do will work. A new cord will get rid of one connection that can over time degrade. And 10 ga will carry the existing load cooler than the 12 gs/

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

FWIW – 220v line voltage can tolerate 2x longer wiring than 110v, before you get significant power losses with high current devices. Unless the distance between your breaker box and outlet is over ~250ft, there is seldom any concern with reasonable length extension cords on 220v tools.

The g0833 manual suggests using a 15A breaker, and 8A FLA.
While I prefer using up-rated 20A 12 AWG for 15A circuit extension cords, even using 10 ft of 14/3 is not going to have any impact on performance of a 220v 8A 1PH motor.

+1 – If you will be permanently adding an extra 10ft of wire, completely replace the existing cord.
Additionally, will be cheaper as you don’t need to buy extra plug/receptacle; and don’t have to worry about things getting unplugged in middle.

Cheers!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

You have to use a wire gauge based on the breaker you have. You can use a thick wire with a small breaker but it’s a no-no to use a thin wire with a big breaker. According to the NEC a 15A breaker requires 14 AWG wire as a minimum. A 20A breaker requires 12 AWG wire as a minimum, etc.

-- Woodworking is like a vicious cycle. The more tools you buy the more you find to buy.

It is no different than having the permanent wiring 10’ longer.
I’ve been doing it for years with my jointer.

I have a 25’ 12/3 wire extension cord that I haven’t needed to use for a permanent placement, but have often used it on tools I am flipping. I can keep the tool right out by the garage door to facilitate easy load out, but anyone coming to try the tool can do so. It works fine, and I can’t see why at 10’ it wouldn’t just have to be temporary.

The book for this

Mostly used for longer runs like house out to detached shop, but easy enough to go shorter, and smaller with it.

-- Think safe, be safe

You have to use a wire gauge based on the breaker you have. You can use a thick wire with a small breaker but it s a no-no to use a thin wire with a big breaker. According to the NEC a 15A breaker requires 14 AWG wire as a minimum. A 20A breaker requires 12 AWG wire as a minimum, etc.

- dbw

The NEC requirement you are using applies to permanent building wire, not extension cords and equipment wiring. How many lamps, TV’S, skillsaws, etc. have #12 cords on them being used on a 20A circuit.

For motor loads, it is a different set of rules when using a starter with overload protection. A single phase 5 HP motor drawing 28 amps on 240 volts will use 10 awg wire, BUT a 60 amp breaker, but a 40 amp time delay fuse, because of the protection from the overloads in the starter. For your motor, drawing 8 amps it is a 1 HP, minimum wire size is 14 with a 15 amp breaker, but 12 amp fuses, but on 120 it would be 16 amps, 14 awg wire, and a 30 amp breaker, but 25 amp fuse. It can get complicated. 12 should be fine, and 10 is better. And for even more confusion, 14 awg is rated for 20 amps, BUT SHALL BE PROTECTED AT 15 amps. And 12 is rated for 25 amps, BUT SHALL BE PROTECTED at 20 amps.