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Forum topic by knotscott posted 09-07-2019 08:43 PM 411 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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knotscott

8332 posts in 3881 days


09-07-2019 08:43 PM

Hi gang!

I’m making a table for my son and DIL. They want the base painted, and the top wood. I’m going to start with some existing hardwood legs and apron, and only build the top.

I’m looking for tips for finishing and painting the base. The legs are some Asian hardwood with a poly coating. I was figuring on some cleaning and fine sanding to help the primer stick, and would prefer to paint with rattle cans. Sooo….what kind of prep, primer, and paint is best?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....


15 replies so far

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

704 posts in 1146 days


#1 posted 09-08-2019 12:17 AM

I use kilz primer for everything but that’s a personal choice. Correct to scuff sand the poly first. I lightly sand between coats of paint with fine grit for that satin feel.
I recommend against rattle cans for the actual paint, likely to be blotchy but ymmv. Good luck!

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

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knotscott

8332 posts in 3881 days


#2 posted 09-08-2019 12:19 AM

Thanks John.

Here’s a pic of what it’s supposed to look like.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View wildwoodbybrianjohns's profile

wildwoodbybrianjohns

288 posts in 53 days


#3 posted 09-08-2019 08:17 AM

First thing I would do is determine if the existing finish is water-based or oil-based. The way to tell the difference is to use a clean rag with denatured alchohol on it and wipe a small area, if it glides and doesnt have any effect on the finish, then you have an oil-based product, if it “pulls” and clouds the finish to any degree it is water-based.

Reasoning being, its not good practice to go over a water-based product with an oil-based product.

Whatever product you use for the final finish, if you dont use rattle cans, or dont have a sprayer, and are applying with brushes or rollers combo, it would be good to thin your paint. Penetrol is good for oil-based paints, to extend drying time, reduce brush marks, and the paint will “lay down” better. With water based paint, Flotrol is good, but water is cheaper and has the same result, you can cut by up to 20% with water.

Good luck.

-- Wildwood by Brian Johns: It is wiser to find out, than to suppose (S. Clemens)

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knotscott

8332 posts in 3881 days


#4 posted 09-08-2019 12:16 PM

Good info. Thanks much!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View OleGrump's profile

OleGrump

496 posts in 850 days


#5 posted 09-08-2019 12:45 PM

Hand the spray can over to the kids. They’re the ones who want it painted…...You’re the one who took the time and trouble to MAKE the furniture…... LOL

-- OleGrump

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3925 posts in 1893 days


#6 posted 09-08-2019 01:04 PM

It’s going to be a lot more expensive to paint with rattle cans. For me, the rattle cans are only good if you need 1 or maybe 2 cans for the project. You might look for a Wagner HVLP or even an airless sprayers cheap on FB Marketplace or Craigslist and then you can buy a quart of whatever paint you want for about the same or only slightly more than a single rattle can. I bought a Wagner HVLP for about $25 on closeout at Rockler and it worked very well for spraying some GF Poly on a vintage headboard I refinished. Test any used ones you find with some water at least before you buy it to make sure that it works and still sprays a relatively even pattern. Another option is the famous Harbor Freight HVLP if you have an adequate compressor for it.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View wildwoodbybrianjohns's profile

wildwoodbybrianjohns

288 posts in 53 days


#7 posted 09-08-2019 03:46 PM


Hand the spray can over to the kids. They re the ones who want it painted…...

- OleGrump

So very funny!:))

-- Wildwood by Brian Johns: It is wiser to find out, than to suppose (S. Clemens)

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knotscott

8332 posts in 3881 days


#8 posted 09-08-2019 05:51 PM

Hand the spray can over to the kids. They re the ones who want it painted…...You re the one who took the time and trouble to MAKE the furniture…... LOL

- OleGrump

LOL…I want to at least give it chance to look nice when it’s done!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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therealSteveN

3859 posts in 1080 days


#9 posted 09-08-2019 06:17 PM

Scott it’s really more about the paint you are putting on. Paint either oil, or water based needs a good base to attach to, so some light scuffing of the existing is a good start. I too like Kilz as a primer, then spend some $$$$ on the paint, and at that point the better stuff is fully self leveling, so you can apply with a brush, and get a good final result.

I used to use Behr paint, and felt it was very good, but I don’t do Home Cheapo anymore so at Menards I have been Using Pittsburgh Platinum, it’s better than the Behr IMHO. Truly one coat coverage, and I always use a brush with paint, and on first stroke, you think, ohhh lookit those streaks. In 30 seconds they are gone, and then you are just doing that mental thing, it doesn’t look like the paint chip….. Of course once it dries it does.

-- Think safe, be safe

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knotscott

8332 posts in 3881 days


#10 posted 09-08-2019 07:45 PM

Thanks to all for the help.

Here’s where I’m at so far. I did the denatured alcohol test, and determined that the finish is oil base on both the legs and chairs. As a test, I lightly sanded and cleaned one of the chairs, and gave it 2 coats of Krylon Colormaxx paint & primer, with a light high grit sanding between coats. Looks pretty good so far.

Would it be beneficial to apply a clear coat for protection? If so, what should I use over the Krylon?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5738 posts in 2999 days


#11 posted 09-08-2019 07:51 PM

My opinion is the paint itself is plenty durable. So I don’t see any advantage to a clear overcoat.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View wildwoodbybrianjohns's profile

wildwoodbybrianjohns

288 posts in 53 days


#12 posted 09-08-2019 11:26 PM

+1 on previous post from Fred. No need for clearcoat.

-- Wildwood by Brian Johns: It is wiser to find out, than to suppose (S. Clemens)

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10732 posts in 4558 days


#13 posted 09-09-2019 10:55 PM

Deft makes some good Colored Lacquer based rattle cans…

Super good…

IMHO…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php

View therealSteveN's profile (online now)

therealSteveN

3859 posts in 1080 days


#14 posted 09-10-2019 08:35 AM

I am also in the no need to clear coat a painted surface. Fixing a clear coat over paint is a tough fix. Fixing a painted surface is as easy as applying another coat.

Most of those who use a clear coat over paint are wanting a glossier look. Buy gloss base for the paint.

Let what you have set for a day or 3, see if you like it?

-- Think safe, be safe

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knotscott

8332 posts in 3881 days


#15 posted 09-10-2019 12:15 PM

Great advice. Thanks guys.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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