Triton 3 1/4 hp above table adjust???

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Forum topic by scribble posted 08-21-2019 09:26 PM 795 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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237 posts in 3121 days

08-21-2019 09:26 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question router

When using the above the table height adjust on a Triton 3-1/4 HP router are you using the plunge lock or just the resistance to hold the height?

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

9 replies so far

View Robert's profile


4157 posts in 2401 days

#1 posted 08-22-2019 10:52 AM

Why would you need to? Is the router dropping? It shouldn’t be.

BTW unless they have fixed it, there is a known issue with Tritons height adjustment and backlash in the gears. This causes the router to drop when the plunge lock is released. This makes dialing in the bit height impossible without the use of a dial indicator and recording the previous height. I discovered you are supposed to remove the spring, but doing this did not help the issue. My router did not start out doing it, but got progressively worse over a years time to a point where the bit would drop as much as 1/8”. Triton tech’s answer was “it’s the nature of the beast”.

I ended up buying a router lift and router. Maybe they’ve fixed it. Hope you don’t have the issue, but something to be aware of.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View HorizontalMike's profile


7902 posts in 3834 days

#2 posted 08-22-2019 11:51 AM

I have had similar issues with my 3-1/4 Triton above adjustment. In other words, REGARDLESS how much you are trying to micro-adjust, you will still need to do multiple test cuts to get it right.

I now adjust this router below the table, as I eyesight across the table (since my eyes are now already at that level) and use a 6in or longer straight-edge for reference. WHY?... The inserts are never actually level with the table and do not truly indicate how accurate any longer piece is routed. I always reference from the table and not the insert. IMO, this is not an issue to me.

And yes, I use the plunge lock after getting my desired depth of cut.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View controlfreak's profile


1404 posts in 521 days

#3 posted 08-22-2019 12:39 PM

I have this router and bought it for the above table adjustment. I figured it was cheaper than buying a lift. I have a Kreg plate but still have yet to build the router table on my to do list. Anyway the instructions say to remove a spring somewhere in the height adjustment assembly for table mounting if my memory serves me correctly.

Plunge lock, I didn’t really pay any attention to this until I had made a template for a flush trim bit to follow. The vibration of the router made the adjustment move and I ended up destroying my template along with the workpiece. So using upright I say yes lock it. Under table I would probably lock that too. The trim bit I was using was a 2” long bit so it was exerting maximum force at the time. Something lighter like a round over may not have moved it.

View scribble's profile


237 posts in 3121 days

#4 posted 08-22-2019 02:40 PM

I have used it several times in my table with the spring removed and it has dropped about 1/8” so I was told to lock the plunge lever after adjustments. Just seems counter productive to the above the table adjustment. I am using a muscle chuck as well so I don’t raise it up to the spindle lock feature.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

View Woodtodust's profile


77 posts in 2757 days

#5 posted 08-22-2019 03:44 PM

I believe I have the same setup as “controlfreak” and I have had problems with the router dropping. I was routing a bullnose on some 8’ long maple to use as edging on a tabletop. The router dropped and ruined the piece I was routing. I’ll have to try the spindle lock. I thought when the spring was removed that this mechanism would no longer function.
As it is now, I don’t trust this router and use my handheld router with an edge guide whenever possible.

-- Bill...Richmond Hill, GA--"83% of all statistics are made up."

View controlfreak's profile


1404 posts in 521 days

#6 posted 08-22-2019 04:31 PM

I haven’t built my table yet but I will need good accessibility to get to the lock lever.

To those that have this in a table does a remote start /stop button work okay? I seem to remember some sort of interlock with the slide door covering the on switch. It may also engage the spindle lock for bit changes as well.

View scribble's profile


237 posts in 3121 days

#7 posted 08-22-2019 04:45 PM

I run a seperate on/off switch on the side of my table assembly. The only reason for turning on/off the switch at the router on a Triton is so that the spindle lock engages when you raise it up to full height. If you leave the router switch on the spindle lock will not work.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

View Tony1212's profile


463 posts in 2654 days

#8 posted 08-23-2019 01:04 PM

I have the Triton router with the Kreg plate. I always use the plunge lock when using it in the table. I figure, most modern table saws have a blade height lock, why not the router. The vibrations will allow the lead screw to turn under the weight of the tool.

My router will also drop once I release the lock, but it’s never really bothered me. I figure it’s a small price to pay for not have to buy both a lift and a router.

My tablesaw is an old Craftsman (circa 1950) and does not have a blade height lock and will drop over long cuts. I do all of my dadoing and rabbetting on my router table. I get much better results.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

View Bill_Steele's profile


736 posts in 2651 days

#9 posted 08-23-2019 02:56 PM

I guess I’ve been lucky—I have the 2 1/4 hp Triton and I have not noticed any drop when I release the plunge lock. I typically engage the plunge lock after I make a height adjustment from above the table.

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