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Forum topic by Todd_R | posted 08-17-2019 07:52 PM | 1071 views | 0 times favorited | 20 replies | ![]() |
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08-17-2019 07:52 PM |
All, I’m looking to buy a jointer 8” or larger and a planer 15” or larger. I want to replace my existing benchtop planer and purchase my first power jointer with something I can be confident in that will be snip and tear out free with a final finish which I can lightly sand (avoiding a drum sander purchase). I’m convinced I am going to go with a spiral/helix cutter head on both. I was looking at the Hammer A3-41 but I’m not exactly sold on that solution after some reviewing it. I’ve seen/heard of issues with snipe and concerns about tear out on wood with knots and/or crotch. I’ve heard of issues and the sales guy here locally showed me a board that he said came from the planer and it had snip on it. That and the hammer A3-41 isn’t in stock and can’t deliver for 4+ months unless I want to pay nearly $900 for shipping across country. So I’m lacking confidence in dropping that much cash on this let alone waiting until mid to late December (if they can deliver then). I’ve look at the Grizzly as well but I’m always a bit disappointed with the quality of Grizzly products and rather pay a bit more for better quality. That and some of their spiral cutter heads, the blades are super expensive (nearly $10 each). Versus Byrd blades are in the neighborhood of $3.50 each. When you have nearly 100 blades to replace at some point (if you ever do) it could be an expensive proposition. So I’m leaning towards a Powermatic individual planer (15” or 20” with the spiral cutter head) and jointer (probably PJ-882HH). I’m relatively new to wood working and just wondering if there’s any other decent quality options out there which users out there may have experience with and I just missed. Regards, -- Todd |
20 replies so far
#1 posted 08-17-2019 07:56 PM |
It sounds like you aren’t really interested in searching the used tools avenue. I have nothing against PM except their pricing…that gold paint must be really gold. So i think those are good choices, but I’d also look at the Rikon offerings…I’m not sure I would pick them over the PM, but I’d sure give them consideration. -- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress. |
#2 posted 08-17-2019 09:02 PM |
If you want quality made in the USA, you could check out Woodmaster Tools https://www.woodmastertools.com/category/planermolders/model-718-planer-molder/ |
#3 posted 08-17-2019 11:26 PM |
Thanks, that’s an interesting option for a planer. -- Todd |
#4 posted 08-17-2019 11:56 PM |
I have a friend who has the wood master 25” planer. amazing tool. There planers can also be used as a drum sander, and a gang rip saw, and a molder. He had been using it for all of the above. About a year ago he bought the Wood master 50” dual drum sander too. https://www.woodmastertools.com/category/planermolders/ -- John |
#5 posted 08-18-2019 12:04 AM |
Good Luck! FWIW: BTW – Most of the EU machines are either made in China, or parts/sub assemblies are made in China/Malaysia – with final assembly in EU. This is one reason for ridiculous lead times. They essentially have a double length supply chain, internal and external. Hammer/Felder also run a lean supply chain, with minimal corporate warehouse inventories. They expect their distributors to make stock available for customers and cover the bank loans as tools sit in warehouse. If you want the Hammer, find a wealthy Hammer dealer and have to pay the shipping (as you found out). IMHO – Industrial grade tools are not snipe free. Never met a 15” or 20” planer that was 100% snipe free, and I am rebuilding planer number 5 right now. YMMV -- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967 |
#6 posted 08-18-2019 12:58 AM |
I have a Pm 15 hh and it snipes. It’s not a big deal for me I will often pass wood over the jointer to remove the surface the bryd head leaves and any snipe. Good Luck Todd -- Aj |
#7 posted 08-21-2019 09:05 PM |
Thanks for the feedback Aj2 and CaptianKlutz. -- Todd |
#8 posted 08-21-2019 10:07 PM |
LOL, The big challenge with lunch box planers, most lack easy way to make adjustments. On opposite end of scale: Industrial units have so many adjustments, it takes awhile to learn which one is best to fix snipe for specific lumber being run. Since constantly making adjustments is pain in the arse, most folks find the least objectionable settings, and just run it for everything. AKA lunch box mode, hehe While I say have never seen a machine 100% snipe free, it is possible to get very close to perfect? IME – snipe comes from unavoidable physics of planing a board that is not 100% supported across it’s entire length. Last but not least, owned 2 different lunch box planers. The snipe as often 0.010 or more, and very hard to eliminate. When I finally had money and shop large enough for 15” industrial planer, never regretted the upgrade. My snipe is less, and much more controllable. IN the end snipe or tool marks is irreverent in scheme of planers. Planers are designed to thin wood, not make it ready for finishing without sanding. Even the expensive fancy carbide insert helix heads leave tooling marks or snipe, and require sanding. Best Luck. -- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967 |
#9 posted 08-21-2019 10:20 PM |
There’s so many different reasons why a planer snipes it nearly impossible to describe. Good Luck -- Aj |
#10 posted 08-22-2019 02:27 AM |
The Hammer/Felder machines are in a different class from the rest. Look at Minimax/SCM, they are probably the closest competition to the Hammer. I agree with Klutz, most snipe issues are due to improper machine setup. -- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be" |
#11 posted 08-22-2019 10:16 AM |
I’ll say regarding jointer and planer there is nothing wrong with Grizzly. In fact, upon closer inspection my 20” Grizzly planer looks identical to a PM. That is because they are cast in the same foundry in Taiwan. But at 1/2 the cost. I’ve had the planer for 10 years and it does a great job. I agree a planer should not snipe. Imthink bed rollers below are part of the problem. I lowered mine below the table surface, and any minor amount of snipe I did get disappeared completely. I also have a Grizzly 8” jointer which I upgraded helical — no regrets on that. ;-). IMO helical planer probably more important than jointer. The combo units aren’t for everyone. Personally I wouldn’t want to deal with switching stuff around often times I’m going back and forth between jointer and planer. -- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!! |
#12 posted 08-22-2019 11:01 AM |
Which of your Grizzly tools are you dissatisfied with the quality of? I have a Griz 1023 table saw, a helical head jointer and an oscillating spindle sander and am very happy with all three. I think that sometimes Grizzly tools get a bad rap because people can’t believe that a high quality tool that is very closely similar to one of the big names is so affordable. “there must be something wrong with it”? I also have Jet, Powermatic, Delta, Dewalt and Incra, Bosch and Porter Cable tools in my shop. I choose my tools based on my need and budget, features and availability and not just name or price. I research all of my purchases and compare models and brands closely prior to purchase. Customer service after the sale is very important, should it be needed; and Grizzly has great customer service. IMHO, my Grizzly tools are just as productive and reliable as my other tools. But ultimately the decision is yours. I hope you are happy with whatever you decide to purchase. Work safely, and have fun! -- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes" |
#13 posted 08-22-2019 12:09 PM |
I have Grizzly:
I love them all and feel that they are by and large quality machines. As for “snipe” being a problem, I am with C-Klutz in feeling that most is from operator error and proper adjustment of infeed and outfeed ramps. I made longer adjustable ramps. That has helped, yet I can still get snipe, if I am not careful about assisting the outfeed from rebounding upwards at the end of the planing cut. Planing longer pieces and final sizing only AFTER planing seems to be the safest bet in eliminating snipe, IMO. -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
#14 posted 08-22-2019 02:16 PM |
In regards to the Grizzly 8” which I have, the cutters (blades) are interchangable with ones sold by Azcarbide. I researched this before my jointer purchase. A 15mm sq. is a 15mm sq. You will probably NEVER change all the cutters at one time. For the thrifty, they can be resharpened on a diamond card but that is a time consuming task. -- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one" |
#15 posted 08-22-2019 02:59 PM |
SNIPE!! |
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