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Forum topic by woodthaticould posted 08-06-2019 09:51 PM 649 views 0 times favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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woodthaticould

76 posts in 2804 days


08-06-2019 09:51 PM

Greetings, everybody:

I’m working on a project (a hope chest) and want to fasten it together temporarily so we can live with it for awhile. I’m not sure about certain details, one of which being which veneer I want for the recessed panels. The joinery for the rails, stiles, and panels will be mostly tongue and groove and the case will go together with dowels. I was thinking about adding blue tape to tongues and dowels to tighten the joints hold until I’m ready to glue up. I’m sure there’s a better way to do this and so I’m throwing it out to all you experts.


32 replies so far

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Rich

4797 posts in 1066 days


#1 posted 08-06-2019 10:08 PM

I would be concerned about residue from tape. Perhaps a ratcheting tie-down strap would work, or if you have a strap clamp, like the Bessey, that will work well.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

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johnstoneb

3125 posts in 2649 days


#2 posted 08-06-2019 10:25 PM

Just remember this: There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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BurlyBob

6466 posts in 2742 days


#3 posted 08-06-2019 10:56 PM

That’s a good one Bruce. I’m going to remember it for sure.

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bilyo

814 posts in 1579 days


#4 posted 08-06-2019 10:58 PM

What you do, I think, depends a lot on how you ultimately intend to assemble it and, to some extent, the type of wood you are using. The first thing that comes to my mind is to use small dabs of hide glue in locations where it will be easy to sand/scrape it off later. Do not put it on mortise and tenons or dowels. Treat it like it is all butt joint assembly. Disassembly would be relatively easy with heat and moisture. Hot melt glue also comes to mind but, I’m not sure how residue might affect finial finishing. If there are any places that will be hidden or out of sight after final assembly, you might use a few pocket screws. The pockets could be filled later if needed.

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SMP

1333 posts in 382 days


#5 posted 08-06-2019 11:32 PM



Just remember this: There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.

- johnstoneb

Yep, will be telling the grandkids about the vintage tie straps that you used on it from “back in the day” that you purchased at an actual brick and mortar store using a plastic card that functioned as dollar based currency.

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ibewjon

891 posts in 3270 days


#6 posted 08-06-2019 11:53 PM

I think I would use the straps with corner protection. No residue to worry about

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bilyo

814 posts in 1579 days


#7 posted 08-07-2019 12:52 AM



I think I would use the straps with corner protection. No residue to worry about

- ibewjon


I could be mistaken but, my impression was that the OP wants it to look as complete as possible while being temporarily connected. Would exposed straps be consistent with that?

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woodthaticould

76 posts in 2804 days


#8 posted 08-07-2019 12:35 PM

Thanks all. I won’t respond to every comment but I appreciate them all. And yes, although I neglected to say it, I wanted the project to look completed except for finishing while being able to disassemble and finish without too much difficulty.

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Robert

3512 posts in 1957 days


#9 posted 08-07-2019 01:05 PM

Knock down hardware?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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JohnMcClure

690 posts in 1117 days


#10 posted 08-07-2019 01:08 PM

If the joints are mallet-tight it may hold together without glue for a couple weeks. If they aren’t mallet tight you could shim them with paper to tighten them up. But that totally depends on the construction.
Agreeing with Bruce, a lot of “temporary” items end up being permanent. We still use a craft table that is barely more than some 1/2” plywood on 1×2 legs with butt-joined 1×2 stretchers. I never expected it to last, but it’s been 10 years.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

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Woodtodust

69 posts in 2314 days


#11 posted 08-07-2019 01:30 PM

How about pocket screws? They’ll be on the inside, can easily be removed and will hold it together until you decide to glue it up. Just eight would do it. Then fill the holes when you’re done.

-- Bill...Richmond Hill, GA--"83% of all statistics are made up."

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bilyo

814 posts in 1579 days


#12 posted 08-07-2019 02:06 PM

How about a few of these at inside corners. Small screws or even nails would leave only small out of sight holes to fill.

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Lazyman

3870 posts in 1864 days


#13 posted 08-07-2019 02:10 PM

If you can put tape in with the dowels or the rails and stiles, they are too loose, IMO. You might be able to get a thin piece of paper in the rail and stile joints but not in the dowel holes.

Why exactly do you want to do this? It isn’t necessary for dry assembly.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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woodthaticould

76 posts in 2804 days


#14 posted 08-07-2019 02:44 PM

Apparently I am a very confused person. I will work on that and then work some wood.

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hairy

2906 posts in 4009 days


#15 posted 08-07-2019 03:42 PM

Tape residue is easily removed with mineral spirits. I normally rub down projects with mineral spirits before applying finish, it cleans up the dust, exposes scratches and glue that I missed and won’t hurt a finish.

Double sided tape might work in some places if you just use a little, too much will give you headaches when trying to disassemble.

-- Genghis Khan and his brother Don, couldn't keep on keeping on...

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