I have seen tons of stuff extolling 'OB's Shine Juice' and I'm just searching for a commercial version of the stuff, or it's equivalent. Does anybody out there know of such a product for sale?
Many moons ago (1950's) I was taught the skill of "French Polish" aka OB shine juice. It was to take a golf ball size tightly twisted round of cloth, dip it into DNA, then BLO and then shellac. No set proportions, no fuss, no bottle, no bother. Note the phrase "No set proportions." As long as the proportion is about 1/3 of each IT WORKS. Then rub it on the surface of the piano, violin or what ever until your arms fell off. The whole object in to lube the surface with the oil, dissolve the shellac with the DNA and melt it all into the surface smoothly. It will also make a repair of a FP surface by just rubbing it with fresh FP.
As soon as I see BLO in a finish recipe, I move on. I also find the oil/shellac combination to be odd. The article was for turners, so maybe it works for them, but I would never put it on one of my pieces.
Rich, that is interesting I have developed a dislike for BLO, I don't know why, why do you steer away from it? And what do you use when you're looking for that glass like finish??
Rich, that is interesting I have developed a dislike for BLO, I don't know why, why do you steer away from it? And what do you use when you're looking for that glass like finish??
I just think it's low-grade oil. I can't think of any big name fine furniture craftsmen who use it. A pure tung oil is a much better product. However, when I want a flawless finish, I spray a dozen coats or so of gloss lacquer and then wet sand it to whatever sheen I want. I generally stop around 1500 for a satin sheen, but you can go up to 8,000 or higher for gloss. A good waxing with pure carnauba wax finishes it off nicely. Everyone who touches it comments on how smooth it is.
Again though, that article was for turners, and the friction of finishing a turning on the lathe changes how finishes behave. Maybe that's a perfect blend for a turner. However, I'd still replace the BLO with tung.
Rich, I appreciate that, if replacing the BLO with Tung is doable, ie it still works I would endeavor to try and make some of that-unless you know of a commercial producer???
Rich, I appreciate that, if replacing the BLO with Tung is doable, ie it still works I would endeavor to try and make some of that-unless you know of a commercial producer???
Odd that its 3rds, for french polishing you just need a couple drops for lube. Maybe they were just doing 1/3 for ocd reasons or copying a maloof type ratio?
Odd that its 3rds, for french polishing you just need a couple drops for lube. Maybe they were just doing 1/3 for ocd reasons or copying a maloof type ratio?
As stated in my first post, the process was a dab, a dab and a dab. So putting it in a bottle kind of comes out to 1/3 of each. After a while your arms are glad of the extra lube!
Odd that its 3rds, for french polishing you just need a couple drops for lube. Maybe they were just doing 1/3 for ocd reasons or copying a maloof type ratio?
- SMP
As stated in my first post, the process was a dab, a dab and a dab. So putting it in a bottle kind of comes out to 1/3 of each. After a while your arms are glad of the extra lube!
What i'm getting at is there is no point really after the first or second time, to help the pumice stone. Sure you "could" use it and hope it all evaporates off but not required and i could only see it making it harder to get a shine, and take longer to dry between coats.
What i'm getting at is there is no point really after the first or second time, to help the pumice stone. Sure you "could" use it and hope it all evaporates off but not required and i could only see it making it harder to get a shine, and take longer to dry between coats.
Where the heck did you come up with Pumice stone???
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