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Forum topic by jmurf posted 07-19-2019 01:46 AM 222 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jmurf

3 posts in 37 days


07-19-2019 01:46 AM

Topic tags/keywords: white oak table top

Hi, question on a design I have for a tv stand. Making my daughter a stand 20” deep and 60” wide and 30” tall. I have purchased white oak from my hardwood dealer.

Was planning on 6 legs. the four corner legs will be 4” wide by 1” thick and legs in the center (one front and one back) 2” wide by 1” thick. The stand will have a top which slightly overhangs, a shelf about 6” below the top for components, and a shelf about 3” from the bottom. I plan on adding dados in the back of each leg for the two shelves to sit in. Stop dados on the outer legs.

My question is on the top. If I add one button to each leg (6) and attach those to the top, will that be enough to hold it? I was not planning on any stretcher across the front or from front to back on the sides. Is that a mistake?

Appreciate any advice.

While I am asking…appreciate opinions on the best clear and durable finish for white oak. My daughter prefers the natural color of the oak versus any stain or other product that might darken the wood.

Thanks

Newer Woodworker


6 replies so far

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

780 posts in 1557 days


#1 posted 07-19-2019 02:28 PM

Stretchers or aprons between the legs with M&T or doweled joints will certainly add strength to the over all structure. I recommend it. My preferred method is to build a rigid frame to support a top and shelves. Without that, your connections between legs and top and legs and shelves will have to be very strong and rigid. This will be difficult given the small contact area you will have at each joint. If you need to do it this way, you should use well fitting M&T or dowels at each joint.
Probably the best finish if you don’t want any color would be a water based poly. I suggest you try it on some scrap before you put it on your project to make sure you like it.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3748 posts in 1842 days


#2 posted 07-19-2019 03:01 PM

I am not quite understanding the design. Are you planning to have an apron to support the top and connect the legs? If you have even a crude drawing of what you are planning that can help quite a bit. It sounds like the shelf will sort of act like a stretcher but I could be misunderstanding.

Also note that 6 legs can be difficult to prevent rocking when on the floor. Even if you make it perfectly so the bottom of the legs are coplanar, any slight variation in the floor over the 5’ span can make it so that 2 or 3 legs are off the ground which means that it will rock. You may have to add some adjustable feet so that you can get it level and prevent rocking.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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jmurf

3 posts in 37 days


#3 posted 07-19-2019 03:10 PM

Hi, thanks for the suggestion on leveling. Below are my crude drawings in excel.

I think apron or no apron is the question. I was hoping to get away without it but if I needed to add a 2 inch apron all around I can do so.

Thanks for any further advice.

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bilyo

780 posts in 1557 days


#4 posted 07-19-2019 09:52 PM

The interior “X” bracing will certainly help with rigidity front to back. If you put a plywood back on it, that will help give it rigidity in the lateral direction. I would still use M&T or dowels for all the joints. I can’t say that I’m overly enthused about the look of it, but structurally you should be OK.

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Lazyman

3748 posts in 1842 days


#5 posted 07-20-2019 02:14 PM

Your Drawing looks like 5 legs. If the TV you put on it has a center stand, it might get a little bit of sag in the middle. Since it is supported in the back, it should be minimal but might be visible. Same issue with the 2 shelves. If you have a 6th leg supporting the top and shelves in the front, it should be fine.

+1 on the idea of putting some plywood on the back to make it less prone to racking, though I think that as long as the shelves are attached solidly to the legs, it will be pretty solid. The main reason I suggest the back is that without a back on it you will have to route the cords and cables along the legs to hide them. It may be pretty ugly to see all of the wires hanging down the back so at a minimum, you will probably want to plan for that. If you want the open look, you could for example put a board horizontally along the shelves and just make sure that your cords and cables are long enough to snake down the legs and along the back of the board backing the shelves. You could also just put the plywood behind the area between the top and first shelf sort of like an oversized apron. This would improve the rigidity and also add a little extra support to the top while hiding the cables for the components on the shelf. Just thinking out loud.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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jmurf

3 posts in 37 days


#6 posted 07-20-2019 03:08 PM

Thanks to all for advice. There is a 6th leg in the back center. I will add the apron all around. Dowels are now in the plan as well to connect the shelves.

She wants it open so routing the wires down the back of the center rear leg is the plan for now.

It’s not the look I would go for either but when this daughter gets something in her mind she is set.

I put water based poly acrylic on a test board – 4 coats sanding lightly between – she likes that look.

Thanks again. First post so glad to see a few people read and offer advice.

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