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Need some help with a Delta 36-979

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Forum topic by chris85 posted 07-15-2019 01:39 AM 257 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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chris85

26 posts in 3144 days


07-15-2019 01:39 AM

Topic tags/keywords: restore question refurbishing tablesaw

Hello,

I have not posted here in years, but I thought this community would be the best place to post for some help with an old Delta 36-979. Full disclosure I do not know much about tools and their quality. I was previously using an old craftsman tables aw (the beast), but I saw this one and thought it would be a good upgrade. So any help you all can provide would be great!

I knew going into buying this saw that it would need some TLC.

Things I know it will need appear to be:

1. Rust cleaning – I used 400 grit sand paper this weekend and removed most of the rust, there are still rust stains any idea how to get those off?

2. Table insert - seems easy enough to find – but I am open to any suggestions from the community.

3. Splitter – Are there any after market splitters for this saw? Delta doesn’t appear to carry/manufacture them anymore.
4. Motor support piece
– I am not sure what it is called but as you can see in the second picture it is missing a piece that supports the motor. the previous owner jerry rigged it right a thick piece of wire. I’d like to not do that, but I am open to doing that if I have to.

Top of the saw

Motor support

It came with this fence – is this a good one to leave on it?


10 replies so far

View 2Goober's profile

2Goober

14 posts in 55 days


#1 posted 07-15-2019 11:19 AM

That saw should serve you well. The best thing would be to make your own zero clearance blade insert using 12mm baltic birch. The riving knife and blade gaurd can be purchased from Leeway Workshop LLC. I have their ARK model on my JET cabinet saw and really like it for dust collection, ease of use, and quality of build. If I had purchased it earlier maybe I would still have my left ring finger I lost in a kick back. The motor part might have to come from Ebay.
Good luck with it!

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

780 posts in 1555 days


#2 posted 07-15-2019 06:08 PM

I have used that model for maybe 10 years. I think it is a great saw. Maybe not as good as a 3 hp cabinet saw, but it hasn’t failed to do what I need it to do. The best part of it is the solid CI top and the Biesemeyer fence. Unless you have a production shop, you likely will never need to “upgrade” again.
As 2Goober saiid, you can easily make your own zero clearance inserts. I have made several to use with different blades. I have also made my own splitter from some very stiff aluminum.
I’m not sure what your motor problem is. It appears to me that all you need is a drive belt. Once one is installed, the motor will be supported by it and the weight of the motor will provide tension on the belt. No wire or other support is needed. When I get back into the shop, I’ll check to see what length of belt is needed. I highly recommend a linkbelt (I think Acculink is the brand name). I have also used the Harbor Freight version of the Acculink with good results.
For dust collection, mine came with a funnel like plastic insert that fits below the blade. Your vacuum hose would fit onto a port in the middle of it. I think they can be purchased on line from any source that sells dust collection fittings. I chose instead to install a “diaper” style collector to mine because I move my collection hose around to what ever equipment I’m using and I didn’t want to stretch it to the table saw. It works well, but is somewhat inconvenient when it needs to be emptied.
IMO, Get the rust off and don’t worry about any discoloration left. It won’t hurt anything. Just put on a good coat of paste wax and give it a good buffing. This will prevent further rusting and make your work pieces slide nicely.
The only down side has been that the power switch did not last very long. However, not a big deal. After market replacements are readily available.
Hope you enjoy this machine as much as i have enjoyed mine.

View chris85's profile

chris85

26 posts in 3144 days


#3 posted 07-15-2019 06:26 PM

bilyo – Thank you so much ! I am relieved to hear you say you don’t think anything is missing from the motor. I’d be so excited if all I needed was a new belt to get the motor properly supported. Let me know what if you get a chance to find the belt size. I would love to get that ordered.

2goober – I am so sorry about your ring finger.. that sounds awful and scares me a bit. Everyone keeps saying to just make a table insert, and based on the prices I think I am just going to do that.

View ruger's profile

ruger

117 posts in 548 days


#4 posted 07-15-2019 08:40 PM

2goober,,mind me asking you what went wrong that caused your kick back accident?

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3378 posts in 1027 days


#5 posted 07-15-2019 08:53 PM

For that 1 1/2HP motor I wouldn’t suggest the HF link belts, they run rough. The link belts are a great thing, but you want to go with the original maker Fenner Drive belts.

Peachtree has the TS 4' version right here. If the wheels/pulleys are rough, cracked, or look problematic those balanced ones they have listed there are very good. Both will make that saw pass the nickle test right now.

I echo the suggestion to go through LeeWay and get a Shark guard, or at least a splitter set.

Clean that saw up and enjoy it.

-- Think safe, be safe

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

780 posts in 1555 days


#6 posted 07-15-2019 09:32 PM

I have had the HF link belt on a band saw for 5-6 years with no problems. It does not run rough. Can’t see any reason why it should. Anyway, the length of belt needed for the 36-979 is 44”.

View JayT's profile

JayT

6241 posts in 2664 days


#7 posted 07-15-2019 09:41 PM

Congrats on the saw.

Rust spots – if it’s just a stain and not active red rust, just leave it alone, it won’t hurt anything.

Fence – yes, that is a pretty decent fence. I don’t see any reason you would need to upgrade.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View 2Goober's profile

2Goober

14 posts in 55 days


#8 posted 07-16-2019 12:23 AM

The accident was from a kickback when cutting a very small dado 1/8 deep X 1/4 wide. I have been woodworking since the early 80s and was being very careful. My problem was I forgot to not be STUPID! I didn’t use a push block. 1/8 X 1/4 what could go wrong, Right!
If your not sure about making a insert, I just made several. PM me and I’ll ship ya 1.
You will be amazed at the difference a link belt will make. It doesn’t have as much memory as a regular belt and creates much less vibration.

View ruger's profile

ruger

117 posts in 548 days


#9 posted 07-16-2019 10:58 PM

Thanks for sharing your story. I worry about kick backs more that any other woodworking accidents.

View chris85's profile

chris85

26 posts in 3144 days


#10 posted 07-17-2019 01:50 PM

so dumb question.

I am looking at these belts, but I don’t see where it says the length of them? bilyo mentioned 44’ was the right length. How do I know which belt will work for my saw ?

edit: found the answer..clearly a dumb question link belts can be adjusted fro size. – sorry !

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