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Interlocking rabbet joint?

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Forum topic by controlfreak posted 07-07-2019 01:48 AM 255 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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controlfreak

111 posts in 56 days


07-07-2019 01:48 AM

I did my research and selected the interlocking rabbet joint for a kitchen cabinet pull out shelf because it wouldn’t show the shelf bottom cut. I had a lot of pine that I went through dialing in the right saw depth and rip fence position. Anyway I got everything set for my cuts but when I went to assemble only one joint slipped together snug and the others needed force. I also had the drawer bottom a little to tight which caused some alignment difficulty. The glue up went tragic and the narrow pieces started breaking off the poplar drawer frame. Question: is there a better joint for this or is this just some bad alignment.


4 replies so far

View SMP's profile

SMP

1318 posts in 360 days


#1 posted 07-07-2019 02:28 AM

I find the router bit for that on a router table is alot easier than the table saw technique.

View Firewood's profile

Firewood

889 posts in 2088 days


#2 posted 07-07-2019 02:41 AM

I’ve done it on the tablesaw and it worked well for me, but I was using Baltic birch ply for my boxes.

You mentioned you were using poplar. If you bought it s4s from the big box store, it’s possible the boards may vary a bit in thickness, which will definitely throw off your final fit.

Also, you didn’t mention if you are using a dado set or relying on multiple passes to get your desired width of cut.

If you provide a bit more detail on your process, perhaps someone here can help pinpoint where it went wrong for you.

-- Mike - Waukesha, WI

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5647 posts in 2948 days


#3 posted 07-07-2019 10:55 AM

No idea what went wrong, unless maybe you were just trying to make the joint a little tighter than it needs to be. It’s a good, strong joint and well suited for what you’re doing.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

111 posts in 56 days


#4 posted 07-07-2019 11:15 AM



I ve done it on the tablesaw and it worked well for me, but I was using Baltic birch ply for my boxes.

You mentioned you were using poplar. If you bought it s4s from the big box store, it s possible the boards may vary a bit in thickness, which will definitely throw off your final fit.

Also, you didn t mention if you are using a dado set or relying on multiple passes to get your desired width of cut.

If you provide a bit more detail on your process, perhaps someone here can help pinpoint where it went wrong for you.

- Firewood


Yeah I thought about that after I posted. I did this on my TS because I haven’t built my router table yet. I am starting to wonder if I will need a router table to build my router table. I have the router with built in lift (Triton) and a Kreg plate so that project is coming soon.
I was using a single 1/4” dado blade so I would have a flat channel. I made a single pass on the endgrain of the drawer front matching the thickness of the wood. I than cut the end off of one side. I than cut a channel in the drawer side going in about half the thickness of the wood. It was 1”x4” (3/4”x3 1/2” actual) poplar from the big box store. My choices there are plywood, select pine, poplar and oak. My original idea was to use hand cut dovetail joints as a way of practicing and getting a project out of it but the exposed bottom shelf cut is why I decided against that joint.

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