LumberJocks

10 foot table design concerns

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by zombolina posted 07-03-2019 12:21 AM 685 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View zombolina's profile

zombolina

37 posts in 2964 days


07-03-2019 12:21 AM

Greetings,

I’ve made one table before, but it certainly wasn’t this large. In the attached drawings, the top is made of 1.5” cedar with breadboard ends, 6.75” wide planks.

The apron and supports are 1.5” poplar, and the legs are 5×5” turned poplar. All the poplar will be painted

M&T joinery at the apron to leg, XL dominos every where else.

My concern it the 87” span between the legs. Will a 5” apron be enough? Is it aesthetic?
The other issue is that the chairs that I have all have arms, and with the current measurements, it looks like it they will crash into the apron.

What say you, hive mind? Would you build as drawn, or do you think it will rack?

Many Thanks. I really hope I finish this one :-)

-- Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm. -Winston Churchill


21 replies so far

View CWWoodworking's profile (online now)

CWWoodworking

1291 posts in 1145 days


#1 posted 07-03-2019 01:11 AM

I would go with a standard 3.5” apron and use steel f or support. Solves both problems.

View cracknpop's profile

cracknpop

487 posts in 3315 days


#2 posted 07-03-2019 01:45 AM

I have seen many tables that size have a small support leg under the center of the table.

-- Rick - I know I am not perfect, but I will keep pressing on toward the goal of becoming all I am called to be.

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

1255 posts in 2069 days


#3 posted 07-03-2019 01:49 PM

The center support leg idea is a good one. You might also consider making the apron and frame out of a harder stiffer wood like white oak that is a full 1” thick.

Of course, you could always shorten the chair legs! ;>)

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

1472 posts in 693 days


#4 posted 07-03-2019 02:27 PM



I would go with a standard 3.5” apron and use steel for support. Solves both problems.

- CWWoodworking

+1
1/4×2 steel flat bar on the inside of each stretcher. It’s cheap,
(and no need for a center leg)

25” from floor to bottom of stretcher is my minimum.

View zombolina's profile

zombolina

37 posts in 2964 days


#5 posted 07-03-2019 02:27 PM

Thanks all! Back to the sketch up board. I’m using the cedar because I have a bunch of slabs from an urban deodar, but the white oak, hmmm

-- Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm. -Winston Churchill

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

6300 posts in 2354 days


#6 posted 07-03-2019 03:05 PM

I don’t know how well it works for this sort of application because it is designed for computing shelf loading but according to the Saginator, an 87” long 3.5” x 1.5 yellow-poplar board with a 40 lb per foot load will sag less than 1/10th of an inch over the entire span. I am pretty sure that my 10’ table with leaves in it would sag more than that with weight on it. I can press on the middle and see it deflect. White oak was only a .01” improvement. I basically entered a shelf that is 1.5” deep and 3.5” thick into the saginator. I would think that with the additional 1.5” thickness of the top that it should sag even less. Of course you can always test this by supporting the apron board on each end and standing on it to give it a stress test.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Delete's profile

Delete

439 posts in 1338 days


#7 posted 07-03-2019 03:52 PM

Such a long table with the requirement for arm chair clearance presents a tough problem. One way to get more support is to do a double glue-up of your apron thickness this will greatly increase its strength and allow you to reduce the height to 3”, if you increase the table height to 32” it would allow you to slip an armchair with standard 27” arm height under the table with 1/2” clearance so you don’t scrape up the arms or table. Your drawing indicates that the arm height is less than 27”, if they are say 25” then you can go back to a 30” table height and still maintain the clearance indicated in this very quick scribble to outline the idea.

View SMP's profile

SMP

3171 posts in 872 days


#8 posted 07-03-2019 04:12 PM

As someone else mentioned, steel angle iron would work well and in the corner of the top and the apron screwed in to both. However, aesthetically, I think tables this long just kind of look funny. Unless its designed to be used with leafs, then at least you know the leafs are temporary. Otherwise, it looks like a stretch limo driving down the street. Kind of cool looking at first, but you wouldn’t want to drive it every day. Just my opinion.

View CWWoodworking's profile (online now)

CWWoodworking

1291 posts in 1145 days


#9 posted 07-03-2019 04:33 PM

Design wise, the only thing I would change is the over hang, and 3”ish skirt.

10” is odd on a leg table. It will look like you were aiming for a leaves on end look, or were scared of it sagging.

Don’t over think this. Design it with more appropriate over hang(3”ish), and don’t be scared. Steel is strong and easy to work with.

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

423 posts in 926 days


#10 posted 07-03-2019 08:50 PM

.

It was fine as originally desigined…

This is 120” oal, 5” thick legs, 4×1.25” aprons with a 97” span between legs.

No need for steel anywhere in the design, unless you plan on dancing on top with a small block chevy in your arms.

View CWWoodworking's profile (online now)

CWWoodworking

1291 posts in 1145 days


#11 posted 07-03-2019 09:02 PM



.

It was fine as originally desigined…

- Jared_S

Except the arms of the chairs won’t fit under neath.

View zombolina's profile

zombolina

37 posts in 2964 days


#12 posted 07-03-2019 09:03 PM

Jared, what is the overhang measurement on the one pictured? That’s more of the proportion that I want.

I think 24-48” of leaves would be helpful, but that would take so much more engineering and storage! Unless someone has finished plans somewhere :-)

-- Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm. -Winston Churchill

View zombolina's profile

zombolina

37 posts in 2964 days


#13 posted 07-03-2019 09:07 PM

Thanks for the drawing Carlos! I may need to build new chairs

-- Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm. -Winston Churchill

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

423 posts in 926 days


#14 posted 07-03-2019 09:34 PM


Jared, what is the overhang measurement on the one pictured? That’s more of the proportion that I want.

I think 24-48” of leaves would be helpful, but that would take so much more engineering and storage! Unless someone has finished plans somewhere :-)

- zombolina

7.5” overhang edge to leg on the ends (to fit wingback armchairs)

1.25” to the leg and 2.5” to the apron on the sides

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

423 posts in 926 days


#15 posted 07-03-2019 09:46 PM


.

It was fine as originally desigined…

- Jared_S

Except the arms of the chairs won’t fit under neath.

- CWWoodworking

If they can’t fit under a 3.5-4” apron id replace the chairs.

showing 1 through 15 of 21 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com