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Forum topic by DHapp | posted 07-01-2019 06:28 PM | 1027 views | 1 time favorited | 10 replies | ![]() |
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07-01-2019 06:28 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: question router I get my custom made (a metal working friend) router planer sled today and now want to flatten some slabs of wood I have acquired. |
10 replies so far
#1 posted 07-01-2019 06:36 PM |
I would recommend this one if it’s specifically for planing. If it would ever need to be used to plunge though, you’ll want a bottom cleaning bit. There are also inserted bits available now that are like the Whiteside I linked but use indexable carbide inserts. If I were going to be using the sled a lot, I’d probably go that route. -- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!! |
#2 posted 07-01-2019 10:14 PM |
Not enough information? If you have plunge to start cut; then use a mortise style bit: I would suggest you start with smaller diameter bit and get feel for your planer sled and wood being machined? Start with 1” OD cutter like this: The challenge with larger CNC bits is keeping a constant feed rate. CNC spoil board surfacing bits have large gaps between cutters and don’t have anti-kick back protection found on common router bit for hand use. Push to fast, and they will grab wood aggressively and chatter. For really large CNC tables, they use large bits like the $400 4” OD cutter with inserts from Whiteside: If you find that bits with sharp corners are leaving witness lines with every pass (due play in router fixturing), then can use bowl & tray bit with radius corners, such as this one: IMHO – There is no ONE answer to how to machine wood with a planer sled? Best Luck. -- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber! |
#3 posted 07-02-2019 12:09 AM |
With a router that has a 2 1/4 Hp motor as your Bosch 1617EVSPK has I would suggest not going with a HAWG sized bit, but rather limit it to 1 1/2” diameter at the big end. A 3+ Hp hawg router, then jump on up, and put in a hawg bit. Your router will tank you for it by running longer. -- Think safe, be safe |
#4 posted 07-03-2019 02:51 PM |
Thanks for the advice guys! I will prob purchase a the smaller diameter surfacing bit and see how it works and feels. |
#5 posted 07-03-2019 03:23 PM |
I have done this with the same router. Think I used a 2” dia bit (have to measure it) as well as smaller ones. Depth of cut as well as cutter dia controls whether a given router can do a cut. I would not want any larger bit than I used controlling the router by hand. Mine is square cornered, highly recommend a radiused bit to prevent cut lines – just about impossible to prevent with a non cnc set up. Pau attention to the amount of tearout you get. I abandoned the method due to that. I was flattening panels not slabs. For slabs its a good rough flattener, then use handplanes to remove the tearout and cut lines if any. |
#6 posted 07-08-2019 12:59 PM |
My router mounts to a steel bar slide mechanism sliding on bearings and is mounted to a all steel frame so the router doesn’t just slide in a slotted opening does that make a difference? |
#7 posted 07-08-2019 01:23 PM |
I’d be interested in some pictures of your sled if you wouldn’t mind posting a few :-) -- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!! |
#8 posted 07-08-2019 03:20 PM |
I use this bit also, it works well. Just be sure to use a bit that cuts on the bottom and slow your router down to the proper speed for the diameter of the bit. The type of sled you use will not matter |
#9 posted 07-08-2019 04:51 PM |
Should be a lot better if executed well. Stiffness in the z vertical direction, smoothness of movement in x y horizontal. |
#10 posted 07-09-2019 03:28 AM |
I use a similar bit that is shown here. 1-1/2” with a 1/2” shank. I am using a Dewalt DW618 router, and it handles the bit with now problem. I feel I could upgrade to a larger bit if I wanted too. -- John |
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