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Tablesaw blade recomendations?

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Forum topic by Jim55 posted 06-20-2019 07:11 PM 349 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jim55

182 posts in 2486 days


06-20-2019 07:11 PM

Hello. My table saw uses a typical 10” blade. What I have is a situation where I want to rip a number of weathered oak 4”x4”s. I would like some blade recommendations. Not so much brands, we all have our favorites. But specific tooth count, configurations and/or features that will aid in this specific endeavor.
I am not opposed to brand recommendations but lets restrict those to features specific to this job that other brands may not have.
Ok?
Priced under $100 and preferably under $50 if an option.

Thanks to all!


8 replies so far

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PPK

1433 posts in 1229 days


#1 posted 06-20-2019 07:16 PM

Cheap 24 tooth rip blade. Can be had for about $25. I think the one I have is by CMT. Thin kerf or full kerf, it doesn’t matter all that much. If you don’t like deflection, then full is better, if you don’t like wasting as much lumber/have a lesser-powered saw, then thin kerf is for you. Don’t waste your money on expensive blades that may easily get ruined in one second by a hidden nail or embedded rock or whatever. That’s my two cents!

-- Pete

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HokieKen

9950 posts in 1558 days


#2 posted 06-20-2019 07:23 PM

I agree. If these are old Oak 4×4s, I would buy a “beater” blade for ripping them. There’s a good chance you may chip a tooth or two. Fewer teeth is better. Full kerf unless your saw just doesn’t have the “umph” then you may need to try a thin kerf. Also, check the actual dimensions of the 4×4s and the max cut capacity of your saw. Depending on your saw, you may have to make the cuts in two passes. Which doesn’t really affect blade choice but thought I’d throw it out there.

If it were me, I’d grab a Harbor Freight rip blade. Cheap but capable blade and I wouldn’t feel bad about trashing it if I hit a nail or something and broke a tooth or two.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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Nubsnstubs

1578 posts in 2149 days


#3 posted 06-20-2019 07:50 PM

What Kenny says. The two passes should be made with an eighth inch above center if your saw doesn’t have a lot of power. That would be 1 7/8” blade height if the wood is 3 1/2”........... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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knotscott

8297 posts in 3795 days


#4 posted 06-20-2019 10:05 PM

Hard to go wrong with a $28 Freud Diablo 24T TK blade for this task.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View farmfromkansas's profile

farmfromkansas

47 posts in 33 days


#5 posted 06-21-2019 01:07 AM

Last black friday sale Menards had a 10” set of cmt blades, a 24 tooth rip blade, and a 60 tooth crosscut blade, thin kerf way cheap. I got 3 pairs. CMT makes good blades too.

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PPK

1433 posts in 1229 days


#6 posted 06-21-2019 12:51 PM



Last black friday sale Menards had a 10” set of cmt blades, a 24 tooth rip blade, and a 60 tooth crosscut blade, thin kerf way cheap. I got 3 pairs. CMT makes good blades too.

- farmfromkansas

Yup, pretty sure that’s what I bought. the 60t crosscut works great on my chopsaw.

-- Pete

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HardKnockCarpentry

15 posts in 195 days


#7 posted 06-22-2019 08:46 PM

If you’re looking for a reasonably priced blade for ripping oak timber, get a Mamba. They are around $25-$40 on Amazon. They absolutely rip through oak beams.

View Jack Lewis's profile

Jack Lewis

450 posts in 1497 days


#8 posted 06-22-2019 09:02 PM

You failed to state what the end use of the Oak is to be. What degree of finish is acceptable? Glue joints, furniture, fence posts??

-- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one"

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