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Outfeed Table Design - PM1000

3K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  clin 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Good Afternoon, All -

I received a PM1000 with the 52" capacity for Father's Day this past weekend (very lucky). Upgraded from a small job site saw and this is my first cabinet style saw. I want to build an outfeed table that extends the full width of the saw table and out around 42". I have looked at hundreds of pictures, watched dozens of videos and read a few articles, but thought it may be best just to ask you all.

My main question/concern is regarding the butting of the outfeed table to the saw table. While I know I want to be 1/16" under on the outfeed side, how do I account for the 1.5" space created by the angle bar?

Is it necessary to butt the two tops together, or do you feel leaving the gap would be okay (I plan on routing the miter slots through to the outfeed top)?

If you feel it is necessary to butt them together, any pointers on getting a smooth transition? The angle bar and related bolts create quite a few various "levels" that I need to account for.
 
#2 ·
No expert here, but I don't think they have to butt together. I have seen many that use adjustable roller stand, work tables, etc., that do not butt up and they seem to work fine. I am building an attached fold down out feed table for my saw right now and there will be a gap of an inch or so. Just my opinion and like I stated, not an expert.
 
#3 ·
I laminated a 1" and 3/4" pieces together x 4-3/4" and bolted it to the angle iron. Round over the inside bottom and it will fit very close to the angle iron. This set it back so I could still use the dust port. I still need to work on the support for the flip top, my original idea did not work.
Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Flooring Hardwood
 

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#4 ·
Having a gap between out feed table and saw is OK.
One some saws the fence clamps to back rail, and you must leave a gap.
Like this Ridgid contractor saw, and the out feed table built for it.
Table Furniture Wood Rectangle Wood stain


The gap was created by stacking 2 pieces of angle on top of each (facing opposite direction), and bolt on each end to keep them attached to each other. The out feed table was supported by angle stock on saw.

YMMV
 

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#5 ·
You're fine with a gap between the table and the saw, 99.99% of the items you'll be sawing are rigid enough to span the gap. I set mine up 3/4" behind the rear fence rail, and the only time there are issues are with laminate or veneer that can fall off the rear of the saw.
 
#6 ·
No expert here, but I don t think they have to butt together. I have seen many that use adjustable roller stand, work tables, etc., that do not butt up and they seem to work fine. I am building an attached fold down out feed table for my saw right now and there will be a gap of an inch or so. Just my opinion and like I stated, not an expert.

- PaulDoug
Thanks for the input! Good luck with your build.

I laminated a 1" and 3/4" pieces together x 4-3/4" and bolted it to the angle iron. Round over the inside bottom and it will fit very close to the angle iron. This set it back so I could still use the dust port. I still need to work on the support for the flip top, my original idea did not work.
Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Flooring Hardwood


- Davevand
This was likely going to be my next step but would like to avoid the extra work if a gap is fine. Thank you for your input.

Having a gap between out feed table and saw is OK.
One some saws the fence clamps to back rail, and you must leave a gap.
Like this Ridgid contractor saw, and the out feed table built for it.
Table Furniture Wood Rectangle Wood stain


The gap was created by stacking 2 pieces of angle on top of each (facing opposite direction), and bolt on each end to keep them attached to each other. The out feed table was supported by angle stock on saw.

YMMV

- CaptainKlutz
Awesome! Thanks, Cap.
 

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#7 ·
You re fine with a gap between the table and the saw, 99.99% of the items you ll be sawing are rigid enough to span the gap. I set mine up 3/4" behind the rear fence rail, and the only time there are issues are with laminate or veneer that can fall off the rear of the saw.

- ChefHDAN
Agreed. I will often cover the gap with a length of 2" blue tape (my gap is only about an inch). I stick it to my fence rail in lieu of the actual saw top to prevent veneer from peeling it up. It basically creates a ramp between the fence rail and outfeed top so if something does dip, it doesn't get stuck on the edge of the outfeed.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
I just set mine up on top of the angle iron. I think I had to recess some areas of the outfeed table frame for some bolt heads, And I had to drill a few holes in the angle to run screws up into the frame of the outfeed table. Because the angle iron was a bit small compared to the size frame I wanted to support the outfeed table, I notched it and made the frame a bit smaller where it overlapped the angle iron. You can just make that out in the photo below in the upper right corner.

Mine also happens to fold down.

Wood Fixture Floor Beam Hardwood
 

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