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Cherry live edge slab with triple crotch help (52"l)

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Forum topic by litletre posted 06-19-2019 07:27 AM 224 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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litletre

19 posts in 197 days


06-19-2019 07:27 AM

Topic tags/keywords: slab crotch cherry live edge wood cost

Ok I got another question for you all, especially to those that have it currently mill and sell lumber. I bought myself a little Chainsaw mill to supplement my income while I go through Electrician apprenticeship program, and have been having no issues until this massive beauty of a cherry log dropped on my driveway. Didn’t know what it would be inside but it is looking like triple crotch live edge clean 2”+ slabs…

So question 1: i got 2 -3 more if the remaining (no pith) log. Should I stick to 2”? Or go to 3 so it can account for shrinkagrme and have option for book matching? Or do 1.5” and pair them up. (Forgive my green nobbies showing XD)

Second question is pricing these out. Like what would you all expect them to be, not saying your buying but what is a price range that you would expect.

Last question no 3: drying best option.

Thank you again,
LENGTH ~52” 12”THICK

-- "Everything went wrong, until it came out better than right" -tdh


4 replies so far

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litletre

19 posts in 197 days


#1 posted 06-19-2019 07:30 AM

-- "Everything went wrong, until it came out better than right" -tdh

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avsmusic1

442 posts in 1105 days


#2 posted 06-19-2019 02:20 PM

I’m no help on pricing in your area (Utah?) but whenever I’ve had stuff milled with a chainsaw I always asked for it a bit thicker b/c I’ve always had more lost in flattening.

I’d think about what the most probable applications for this wood is, try and ID what most people would want for final thickness, and cut heavy to that. For example, if I was buying 1 to make a coffee table (or would I need 2?) i may be looking for a final thickness of 1.5” and would probably want 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 off a chainsaw assuming a proper level cut.

i’d dry these like anything else but maybe consider 1” stickers if cutting slabs and seal the crotch grain as well as the ends.

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bigJohninvegas

633 posts in 1882 days


#3 posted 06-19-2019 02:21 PM

Well, kiln drying is best if you have that available.
The air dried slabs I have seen tend to need more flattening. So I would stay with thicker cuts. And at 12” wide you are definitely looking to book match to get a good table top. End tables and coffee table would look nice.
Price is tough. If you are in an area where cherry is common. Price j feel will be less than someplace where 8t is shipped in.
Any small peices will make good turning blanks too. I like green wood for turning. Seal it with wax as its cut.

-- John

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litletre

19 posts in 197 days


#4 posted 06-19-2019 04:48 PM

Thank you both! Precisly the info I was searching for. The previous cuts have run thin at crotch in attempt to her entire to level. So I’m glad I got that info now as this is the critical time for it.

Side note I was planning on if the slabs to get a good idea of figure etc. It’s really something, can I’ll send some pics. Just hard to see cause yeah it get it much a geeen seal bathe in cut end

Thanks again, really great info :D

-- "Everything went wrong, until it came out better than right" -tdh

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