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Woodworm screw for 3 jaw chuck

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Forum topic by Magoo2000usa posted 06-10-2019 06:06 PM 334 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Magoo2000usa

5 posts in 41 days


06-10-2019 06:06 PM

Anybody have one?


14 replies so far

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JRsgarage

367 posts in 930 days


#1 posted 06-10-2019 06:21 PM

I don’t really use mine but I think it came with my chuck

-- “Facts don't care about your feelings.” ..., Ben Shapiro

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7407 posts in 2619 days


#2 posted 06-10-2019 06:27 PM

Since three jaw chucks are not typically used for woodworking, I’d guess they are not very common. Although I can’t think of any reason why you couldn’t use one in it as long as it fit properly, although it may not have much support as a 4 jaw chuck would provide.

Easy (and cheap) alternative would be to make one with a piece of scrap wood and a lag bolt.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Magoo2000usa

5 posts in 41 days


#3 posted 06-10-2019 07:27 PM

I made one but screw is not concentric with spindle causing allot of tear out.

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MrUnix

7407 posts in 2619 days


#4 posted 06-10-2019 07:35 PM

I made one but screw is not concentric with spindle causing allot of tear out.
- Magoo2000usa

I was thinking more along the lines of a threaded glueblock with an extra piece of wood (with the lag bolt) glued on top. It would thread directly on your spindle (in place of the chuck), and since you would ‘drill’ a pilot hole for the lag while on the lathe, it would be perfectly centered.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: In the thread linked to above, there is a picture of basically what I’m talking about, but it has a machine screw instead lag bolt. Same concept would apply to making it.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2673 posts in 2555 days


#5 posted 06-10-2019 07:56 PM

Welcome to the forum not sure they make wood worm screw for three jaw chuck.

Can buy now called screw center for both Nova and OneWay chucks. Will have to shop around for best price!

Nova part # 113108 $27 +shipping.
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=def4b4e53336a367ab625fc7e532f326&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=113108&Category_Code=

One Way sells two sizes 1 1/2” & 2” ones $25 and other is 2” for $27 plus shipping
Part #’s: 112635 & 112636

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=112635&Category_Code=

5ttp://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&StoreCode=packard&ProductCode=112636&Category_Code=

I still call mine a wood worm screw, quess chaning the name made them more sexy. Still use mine so good luck with finding a free one. Brad’s idea of making your own might be best option!

-- Bill

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harveysoriginals

108 posts in 1907 days


#6 posted 06-10-2019 08:29 PM

I’ve been out of commission for a while but one came with every psi chuck that I own! I can’t believe that replacement cost is as expensive as stated above? It’s just a screw?? Going to the manufacturers website would be a great idea?
Good luck!!!

-- The most dangerous tool in my shop is the one I am currently using! Harvey

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Magoo2000usa

5 posts in 41 days


#7 posted 06-10-2019 09:24 PM

I bought a psi cf3sc chuck does not fit on my vintage crane utility lathe even though the thread size is for 1×8 tpi maybe the thread pitch is different? IDK

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3554 posts in 1808 days


#8 posted 06-10-2019 09:38 PM

How about using a coupling nut with a hanger bolt? (maybe that is what Magoo2000 did^?). Seems like the the hex shaped nut would center with a 3 jaw chuck. If not you could make it round on the lathe. You would probably need to a bolt behind the hanger bolot it to prevent it from screwing in further and maybe some thread lock or epoxy and even drill and glue a pin through it to keep it locked in place. Just thinking out loud.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Magoo2000usa

5 posts in 41 days


#9 posted 06-10-2019 09:46 PM

I’ll post the one I made tomorrow, the pic above was the concept.
Thanks

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1581 posts in 2150 days


#10 posted 06-11-2019 01:15 PM



How about using a coupling nut with a hanger bolt? (maybe that is what Magoo2000 did^?). Seems like the the hex shaped nut would center with a 3 jaw chuck. If not you could make it round on the lathe. You would probably need to a bolt behind the hanger bolot it to prevent it from screwing in further and maybe some thread lock or epoxy and even drill and glue a pin through it to keep it locked in place. Just thinking out loud.

- Lazyman

After screwing in the hanger bolt, screw in another bolt from the other end until it bottoms out. Tighten it as tight as you can. Use Loctite if you choose. It wont come out.
............. Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View RobHannon's profile

RobHannon

276 posts in 951 days


#11 posted 06-11-2019 02:56 PM

I’d be cautious of a hangar bolt unless you find some that specifically call out the steel grade. For a static load, like a hanger bolt would typically have, bending before breaking would be ideal. Bending with the rotational force from a lathe and the mass from a blank is going to go out of balance and keep worsening until you either get the lathe turned off or the workpiece launches off. Most hangar bolts are going to be 18-8 stainless or low carbon steel (grade 2 or 5) with probably a zinc coating. Neither of those are materials I would trust holding on a lathe unless they are very over-sized. If you are going to go that oversized get a 3/4” lag with a smooth upper shank. cut off the head and mount the round stock in the 3 jaw chuck. Hopefully in a bad catch situation the shank would slip inside of the chuck rather than bend.

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Magoo2000usa

5 posts in 41 days


#12 posted 06-11-2019 05:18 PM

Good info, thanks!

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Lazyman

3554 posts in 1808 days


#13 posted 06-12-2019 12:00 PM

Rob’s comments reminded me that one thing that you need to make sure of is that the pieces you mount on a screw need to have a flat surface that registers against the chuck, but more importantly, the chuck needs to have a flat surface or at least the flat jaws of the chuck for that flat surface of the piece to register against. The wider the support the less likely that it will either pull off or as Rob pointed out bend or snap off the screw. Of course it depends on how large of a piece you are planning to mount. Since most 3 jaw chucks for metal lathes often have jaws that step down towards the outside, they won’t provide that kind of support so it would probably be better to use a faceplate with a wood disk mounted or a glue block that you can drive an appropriate screw through the center.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1581 posts in 2150 days


#14 posted 06-12-2019 01:17 PM



Rob s comments reminded me that one thing that you need to make sure of is that the pieces you mount on a screw need to have a flat surface that registers against the chuck, but more importantly, the chuck needs to have a flat surface or at least the flat jaws of the chuck for that flat surface of the piece to register against. The wider the support the less likely that it will either pull off or as Rob pointed out bend or snap off the screw. Of course it depends on how large of a piece you are planning to mount. Since most 3 jaw chucks for metal lathes often have jaws that step down towards the outside, they won t provide that kind of support so it would probably be better to use a faceplate with a wood disk mounted or a glue block that you can drive an appropriate screw through the center.

- Lazyman


But, but, some of those jaw can be reversed, therefore giving you a larger flat to index on…... Not all but some…........... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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