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Maple slab not sure what finish is best

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Forum topic by Patrickgeddes14 posted 05-30-2019 12:04 PM 387 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Patrickgeddes14

190 posts in 327 days


05-30-2019 12:04 PM

So I epoxies the whole surface then planed it. The pictures show the few tiny checks, circled in pencil if you look closely. The problem on my last slab was the visibility of these voids using semi gloss polyurethane. I’m trying to avoid that by trying to fill all voids. Will wood grain filler do the trick for these? Or should I try a finish that doesn’t show them as well, and if so what would that be?


10 replies so far

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OSU55

2407 posts in 2501 days


#1 posted 05-30-2019 12:13 PM

Why wouldn’t you just drop fill with epoxy and sand flat? CA glue would probably work also, but using the same epoxy would probably work best considering all aspects.

Appears you have quite a bit of sanding/planing to level the surface so I’ get that done 1st – you may end up with other fill areas.

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Patrickgeddes14

190 posts in 327 days


#2 posted 05-30-2019 12:23 PM

There’s like a million potential unknown to me locations where the urethane might fall through, leaving me worried with a perfect slab expect 1 tiny tiny tiny speck

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Lazyman

3977 posts in 1899 days


#3 posted 05-30-2019 12:34 PM

+1 on putting some more epoxy on it. Mix a small batch and just dribble it into any unfilled cracks. If you try to fill remaining cracks with something else, they may stand out like a sore thumb.

What was the set time on your epoxy? If you simply used a 10 minute epoxy for example, it might have been too thick or may have started to setup before all of the air could escape. When I want to fill fine cracks like that, especially on a large surface like that, I use a 30 minute epoxy to give the air time to escape before it gets too thick. With the longer set time, make sure you tape the back side or it may just run out the bottom. It might also be a good idea use tape to make a dam around the rim so it doesn’t run down the side.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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LittleShaver

586 posts in 1131 days


#4 posted 05-30-2019 12:39 PM

If it were in my shop, I would first finish leveling it out and getting it ready for a finish. Sand all the way to your final grit. Then stop and apply a full coat of epoxy across the full surface as a grain filler. Then sand it back one more time to level out any irregularities in the epoxy. Then comes a decision point. You can continue to sand/polish/buff out the epoxy as your final finish OR apply a poly top coat to the build you want.

-- Sawdust Maker

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Patrickgeddes14

190 posts in 327 days


#5 posted 05-30-2019 02:44 PM

If I epoxy the top, how do I ensure the outside corners where the top meets the sides will have a clean corner where the epoxy from the top meets whatever Finnish I have on the sides (hopefully just a couple easy coats of urethane). I do a lot of taping to get proper edges typically but I’ve never used tape as my outside edge form with epoxy, so can anybody advise?

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Patrickgeddes14

190 posts in 327 days


#6 posted 05-30-2019 02:45 PM

I realise I’m not great at articulating in text..

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LittleShaver

586 posts in 1131 days


#7 posted 05-30-2019 03:00 PM

I would do a very thin coat of epoxy and would include the sides. Use the epoxy like a poly finish rather than a void filler. The nice thing about the epoxy is you can sand back any drips or runs and buff it out to match the rest.

-- Sawdust Maker

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Patrickgeddes14

190 posts in 327 days


#8 posted 05-30-2019 03:25 PM

Thx LS… So paint tray and fine foam roller should do the job? This is my epoxy https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0788HYTN3/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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OSU55

2407 posts in 2501 days


#9 posted 05-30-2019 07:28 PM



There s like a million potential unknown to me locations where the urethane might fall through, leaving me worried with a perfect slab expect 1 tiny tiny tiny speck

- Patrickgeddes14

That’s what “drop fill” is for – catching the one or several spots that didnt quite make it. I agree with others – why mess with poly, just use the epoxy as final finish on all surfaces. I have not worked with epoxy in that manner, so I dont know if different sheens are available (having gloss epoxy on the irregular sides that needs rubbed down would suck). Good luck!

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LittleShaver

586 posts in 1131 days


#10 posted 05-30-2019 07:54 PM

I would never use a foam roller with epoxy. I would be concerned that it would introduce too many bubbles. Use a brush you can toss when you’re done. Keep the heat gun handy to remove any bubbles that may form anyway.

-- Sawdust Maker

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