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TS Blade Alignment (same tooth measurement is good, opposite tooth is way off)

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Forum topic by mike12ophone posted 05-24-2019 06:05 PM 750 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mike12ophone

45 posts in 1235 days


05-24-2019 06:05 PM

I’m having a problem aligning the blade to my mitre slot. Using the a-line-it, it’s dead on∆ but when I measure the front and the back using the opposite tooth it’s about .006 out. I thought maybe the blade is warped so I bought a new blade and it’s the same. Could this be the arbor? Sorry I’m pretty new at this and don’t know what to look at to troubleshoot.

——
∆Blade at 90° (confirmed) all the way up then lowered ~¼”. Measured front and back of the blade at the same spot on the same tooth.

Dewalt 7491RS Jobsite Table Saw

-- - just a man with too many hobbies


9 replies so far

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SMP

1017 posts in 291 days


#1 posted 05-24-2019 06:56 PM

That’s odd, first thing I would do is take the blade off, then look at the big arbor washer/spacers. The stock stamped steel ones are pretty bad on many saws. You can either flatten them with sandpaper on granite/tablesaw top or other flat surface. It could be a little nub or something on there. If it looks really bad there are also upgrade washers you can buy.https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/q-a-do-blade-stiffeners-and-stabilizers-really-help/

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smitdog

430 posts in 2491 days


#2 posted 05-24-2019 07:59 PM

I don’t see the point in trying for better than .006 unless it’s leaving grooves in the edge that are difficult to sand out. You can check arbor runout by taking off the blade and setting it to a 45 degree bevel. Set your dial indicator at a 45 to touch the rim of the inner blade washer. Slowly rotate it by gently pulling on the belt and see how much travel you get over a few revolutions. If the arbor is off and it’s not a bad bearing, then you can lightly grind that outer rim Matthias Wendel – https://woodgears.ca/saw_arbor/

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

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mike12ophone

45 posts in 1235 days


#3 posted 05-24-2019 08:18 PM

Ah ok well if 6 thou won’t effect me too much I may not worry about it. I haven’t had any issues that I’ve noticed. I’m half afraid to investigate and find something that will cost me $$ to fix. I’ll try that suggestion to check arbor runout but I might stop there. Thank so much.

-- - just a man with too many hobbies

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MrRon

5478 posts in 3629 days


#4 posted 05-26-2019 06:05 PM

How are you measuring from the miter slot? A miter gauge has some slop in the slot from side to side. I assume you are attaching a dial indicator to the miter gauge. If so, keep the miter gauge pressed hard against the side of the slot when taking the measurement on the front and rear tooth of the blade. .006” is not bad for a contractor saw; in fact, it’s pretty damn good.

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mike12ophone

45 posts in 1235 days


#5 posted 05-27-2019 12:12 AM

I used the a-line-it kit witch includes a milled aluminum bar with spring loaded detents that hold it in tension in the miter slot side to side and levelling screws that stabilize front to back. That bar attaches to perpendicular bar with an attached dial indicator. It’s all very stable.

Its good to hear that .006 isn’t a huge deal. I suppose if it’s consistently that way and my fence is dead on, I shouldnt let my OCD get the best of me.

-- - just a man with too many hobbies

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splintergroup

2674 posts in 1608 days


#6 posted 05-27-2019 02:17 PM

The A-line-it is a very accurate tool so I believe your measurements. 0.006 is not bad for runout at 5” away from the arbor, but to really verify you need to either try and read off the arbor flat as suggested by Jarrett or buy one of those square “flat plates” used in place of the blade to run your test. They are kind of a “use once, store away forever” device however.

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Sylvain

826 posts in 2885 days


#7 posted 05-27-2019 02:39 PM

“when I measure the front and the back using the opposite tooth”
Does that mean left side of the blade for one measurement and right side for the other one?
Did you use the same mitre slot for the two sides measurement? If no, are they really parallel?

The table saw must be tuned left/right but also to have the blade tilting axis parallel to the slot in the vertical (geometric) plane.
See Matthias Wandel

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

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mike12ophone

45 posts in 1235 days


#8 posted 05-27-2019 02:40 PM

Whoa I’ve never seen the blank setup/sanding plate. Considering I don’t have a belt or disc sander perhaps it’s not a bad to look into it.

-- - just a man with too many hobbies

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mike12ophone

45 posts in 1235 days


#9 posted 05-27-2019 03:06 PM



“when I measure the front and the back using the opposite tooth”
Does that mean left side of the blade for one measurement and right side for the other one?
Did you use the same mitre slot for the two sides measurement? If no, are they really parallel?

The table saw must be tuned left/right but also to have the blade tilting axis parallel to the slot in the vertical (geometric) plane.
See Matthias Wandel

- Sylvain

No, I did all my measurements from the same miter slot/same side of the blade. I meant forward and rear. I didnt bother checking if the two slots are parallel since I dont use a sled or anything yet. Plus, fixing that would be wayy beyond me at this point. I just use an incra miter gauge in the one slot I’m using to check the blade alignment.

Also, I’ve only checked it at 90. I hadn’t considered how the blate tilt may effect things. Another thing to add to my checklist.

[living with mother-in-law who likes to stack stuff on and around my table saw, bench, and any other flat surface available. I’ve got zero energy to go and fight that battle atm. I really do appreciate the generosity of this forum]

-- - just a man with too many hobbies

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